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In the late '70s while working at Ford T&C I spent my free time hanging out at a couple of the more successful engine builders in Livonia.  Was told the benefit of using the turkey pan was to keep the intake charge cool as possible.

I think you are mixing up two different pan terms. The Turkey pan is normally used to describe a enclosure around the carb which resembles a thanksgiving turkey pan. It is seen mostly used on competition Cobras to keep the cooler air from the hood scoop near the carb . By contrast the sheet metal heat shield underneath the intake is to keep oil away from the high temperature at the bottom of the intake heat riser crossover. The bottom of the intake becomes so hot (not cool)from the heat riser crossover that the oil can break down and burn leaving a coke deposit residue.

I've seen the carb insulator barrier you describe, not knowing what it was called.  The lifter galley pan used on Clevelands and FEs was also called a turkey pan within Ford engine manufacturing plants.  Combined with blocking off the crossover is effective in reducing intake manifold temperature.  Objective being, an attempt at
 suppressing detonation.  Today, air gap intake manifolds seem to fill that role. 

Here is the picture of the enclosure that looks the part of a turkey pan that the carb sits in on top of the intake.

Is your 67 350 a hubcap car? The ones that came with Magstars or ten spokes would have the spare wheel match.

If you re read the first post he says it is a clone of a 67 GT350 so it can be anything he wants it to be.

Anybody know one? thanx. steve

Marty Weisman is extremely knowledgeable on 69/70 Shelby's and he is in Houston area.

You may want it that way but FYI the 65 style side exhaust that you have is hanging down way low . Optimally and historically it should be up near the pinch weld seam. Low ground clearance is the main compromise you have in the current configuration . Cool video but I felt compelled to mention the clearance issue.

Good to know and thank you for the input. I will not need the pan. I have decided to block off the heat riser cross over and hoping to eliminate the tendency for the BB to boil the gas on a hot summer day under a cramped Mustang/Shelby engine compartment. 

 I think with your need to get them exactly the same that the re arching will be the way to get the exact ride height you want. There are other alternative ways but I don't think that you will get the exact result you need. It might take a couple try's of re arching then installing and checking ride height. This re arching  will also need someone experienced to oversee the total process so as to the end results you want. That is when you consider all of what you will have to do to make the leaf spring look concours correct as is your concern. You best have a good supply of concours correct straps given you have to take the springs apart to re arch them and the straps are typically only could for one time .The tab that is bent over to hold them together gets metal fatigue when you try and fold them back then fold them over again when you are finished.   

In the late '70s while working at Ford T&C I spent my free time hanging out at a couple of the more successful engine builders in Livonia.  Was told the benefit of using the turkey pan was to keep the intake charge cool as possible.

I think you are mixing up two different pan terms. The Turkey pan is normally used to describe a enclosure around the carb which resembles a thanksgiving turkey pan. It is seen mostly used on competition Cobras to keep the cooler air from the hood scoop near the carb . By contrast the sheet metal heat shield underneath the intake is to keep oil away from the high temperature at the bottom of the intake heat riser crossover. The bottom of the intake becomes so hot (not cool)from the heat riser crossover that the oil can break down and burn leaving a coke deposit residue.

They make cross over block off plates for SBs never seen  or at least recall seeing them for sale for BB of any kind. Might be a small market for someone that wanted to get crafty at home in the garage,  With a couple of patterns I would start with a chunk of hard wood, trace the pattern and relief out with a bur head or drimmel tool then shape some plates and hammer them for a depression to hold them in place. SB ones are fairly thin metal so that they don't get in the way of the posts sealing (too thick of sheet metal)

Just a thought about a possibility

Thanks for the input. I am leaning towards a .030 piece of stainless in the gasket cut out for the heat riser port just enough oversize to keep from falling in and silicone the plate in with the gasket . At least until I hear a better procedure.

We used to stuff the intake crossovers with crumpled up aluminum foil when I was young and poor. It worked pretty well.

I could see how that could work for awhile but would be concerned about burn through at some point . Come on Royce I am waiting for you to give me a better alternative then that.  

Close but no cigar

https://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-1966-1967-1968-1969-FORD-FAIRLANE-GALAXIE-MUSTANG-390-428-INTAKE-BAFFLE-PLAT-/392769646463

I can do a awful lot of fabricating before spending money on something like that which would have to be modified anyway to work given the CJ one is shaped different. I have decided to go the block off of the heat riser route given the car will not be cold weather driven but thank you for thinking of me. 

I suppose I will just fabricate a makeshift shield or block off the cross over. Thanks.

I had one on mine years ago, I didn't see the benefit
Just put your battery on a good trickle feed.

Haven't had problem in 15 years on my classics and modern collection

They were originally advertised as a theft deterrent. You unscrewed the knob and stick it in your pocket and walk away. Not advocating for how effective just relaying what it was originally advertised for.   

WESKCAR

Don't know who this company is, not affiliated with it, never used their kit and have no results good or bad to report.

Found it interesting

Viewed this on the internet, essentially a kit to re-identify your existing battery to look similar to an Autolite battery.

FYI the kit is for trying to make a battery look more like a 68-70 assemblyine battery with stickers . 65-67 assemblyline batteries looked different then 68-70 . The white tag with red lettering in the picture included in the kit  that is meant to go on a battery post was NEVER used on a vintage 65-70 battery. It was something that the Newcastle battery company (first repro battery company) put on their repro batteries for liability reasons when they started selling them in the 80's. Other repro battery companies and memorabilia companies not knowing any better started selling them as if they were vintage items. 

You did not read my comments

Should you have any complaints about this kit

Please contact directly this company at WESKCAR @ IMNOTHAPPY .COM

Thank you

I did read the comments. You said you found it interesting. Not a complaint but a FYI =for your information, so I thought you and others might want to know.Sorry you took it the wrong way.

WESKCAR

Don't know who this company is, not affiliated with it, never used their kit and have no results good or bad to report.

Found it interesting

Viewed this on the internet, essentially a kit to re-identify your existing battery to look similar to an Autolite battery.

FYI the kit is for trying to make a battery look more like a 68-70 assemblyine battery with stickers . 65-67 assemblyline batteries looked different then 68-70 . The white tag with red lettering in the picture included in the kit  that is meant to go on a battery post was NEVER used on a vintage 65-70 battery. It was something that the Newcastle battery company (first repro battery company) put on their repro batteries for liability reasons when they started selling them in the 80's. Other repro battery companies and memorabilia companies not knowing any better started selling them as if they were vintage items. 

I am trying to get a take on how important the metal pan is under the CJ cast iron intake.I have a chance to buy a cast iron CJ intake at a reasonable price unfortunately it is missing the sheet metal heat shield pan. I understand the pan is Cobra jet intake unique so I can't substitute one from a 390.What say you?