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I am sure you will all laugh at my needs ...

1967 GT 500 Big Block Horse Hair Radiator Shroud, Use in good shape, NOS or restorable

!967 Big Block Flywheel inspection cover 4 speed

NOS Shocks

Date Appropriate Jack

2178558883 will pay top dollar

Unlike what you may have heard the majority of 67 Jacks do not have a date.The most important thing is to get a correct SJ jack.

Looks like a tease for Road Atlanta

Sorry,I did not memorize or reread the entire post to see that. I was just going off the topic of the thread. In the mid-seventies, when I put headers on, nobody told me about the drop bracket. And as soon as I went to move the car, it pulled the bracket right out of the frame rail. That's when I found out about the drop brackets and put one on and did all kinds of stuff to make it stay in place. But eventually, it kept coming loose, and I had this one in the pictures made up. Never had another problem after that But now I have electric power steering so I don't have to worry about it anymore either.

     Roy

I have seen and used various solutions but haven't seen that before. Where did the brace bolt too?

This car is one car away from Roland's Gulfstream Aqua GT350 Convertible in Sweden (1204).
His car has white side stripes as does this car.
1205 was for sale in the Marque/Shelby American about 40 years ago. Good memory for an old geezer
like me.
Texas Swede

But GSA cars came from SA with GOLD stripes. Just like red cars we see white stripes instead of the factory gold sometimes.

Yes I know Gary knows this that we see white stripes sometimes but no proof of factory install for those GSA and red examples. Most likely a owner preference  during a repaint IMO. I am well aware of what Gary's preference is.    

Pat,

That is unusual. I recall a Canadian dealer that did several cars like that. I have never seen anything to indicate the issues with radio interference, but its possible.

The prep job was usually assigned to a low skill employee and thats why you see them all over the place.

I do agree with Mr Gaines, that because the Mustangs were typically mounted on the right front fenders, thats why some Shelbys initially ended up with them there. 

Bottom line is not something factory did.

You have to go back to 67 Shelby production to see all of the warranty radio issue claims during the time that the all fiberglass 67 hood was used. Early 67 had a steel inner structure hood that better shielded against electrical interference. Some 67's with all fiberglass hoods had a more noticeable problem than others. 67 Shelby predominantly had the antenna mount on the front fender. Many 67 Shelby were ordered without radios. It was common that many of the the earlier year Shelby's were ordered  without a radio and one was installed at SA/High Performance Motors so as to make more money. A loop hole in the system was discovered where the radio could be purchased by SA cheaper then having the factory do it.I understand that things changed (Ford closed the loop hole sometime in 67 that made the SA radio install impractical  The radio kits included a template to use for antenna placement on the front fender . The number of radio interference warranty issues became more noticeable as more cars were sold. Most fixes had to do with trying to eliminate the interference with the antenna on the front fender because of the nightmare to change locations after the fact. Consequently in 67 there were different strange fixes like bonding screen wire to the underside of the hood to shield the radio from the electrical interference. Most ended up just living with the static on AM on a front antenna car. Some of the in the know dealers that sold 67's installed the antenna on the rear quarter from the get go to head off possible problems that had been experienced by others. I have a high confidence level those past interference issues effected the rear mount design for 68.  Sorry for the non 68 history lesson but I thought it was pertinent in understanding the evolution of the antenna placement. 

Not 67 but over the counter 66 Shelby wooden steering wheel . In current form the steering wheel will not mate up to a 67 column. 66 Wheels had the canceler pins and 67 didn't. Also it would be prudent to test the continuity of the horn button wires to make sure they are not broken inside the wheel. One reason a Shelby wood wheel was taken taken off of a back in the day was because the wire is broke inside and the horn will not work. If broken it can be fixed but it can be quite a job.Don't ask me how I know.

I don't remember if All 68 Shelbys came with a assemblyline installed radio or not . With that said if some didn't I wonder if there is any correlation with cars that did not come with a factory radio but added by the dealer in which case the instructions and mounting template in the radio kit would show installation on the front fender like a regular Mustang. Just a thought.

I purchased a 66 mustang fastback as a shell with what I assume is the original 289 and a cast iron T10. Im building it as an R Model tribute with a stroked motor with modern internals so it should be in the neighborhood of 350-400HP. My question is, should I go ahead and upgrade to a toploader or is the T10 sufficient for the modern motor's power?

It depends on how exact you are trying to make the tribute. The T10 is what you expect to see on a original.The toploader although different will give less worry of breaking IMO.

I purchased a 66 A code a while back with dual exhaust installed and these were on the car with these paper tags.
There are stampings that read 2.000 AL in two spots on these and would like to know if these are originals?

 I only showed the one side as I am cleaning up the surface rust on them, and they show no major issues or rust thru. Used rust cleaner jell and brass brush with great results.

I'm thinking of using these on my 66 Hertz. Any comments would be appreciated.

Todd

Pictures of the mufflers would help with a evaluation.

. . . . .  is that suggestive that the cast iron T-10s were more durable i.e. stronger that the aluminum ones?

     Yes.   

     Scott.

I don't think the main case was a problem issue near as much as the tail shaft and to a lessor extent side cover. The early ones used and sold by SA were aluminum . Later ones used and sold (67 up)were all cast iron.   

Hi all interested in Paxton cars,
First Thanks to Rod--I was wondering if this car had a fuel pressure and a boost gauge.
If you look close the fitting on the outlet of the blower also has a "T" fitting so it now makes us wonder why if it has no gauges? It is important to monitor both when under boost to prevent engine damage from being excessively lean. I seem to remember that years ago no one had been able to find these gauges so being scarce they were expensive.
That was for 1966 Paxton cars... Never seen a factory 67 setup in person...and with such a low number produced it is easy to understand why, it actually made the car cost more than a G.T.500! Other questions like is it wise to direct fuel inside the car to the gauge? Potential leak(s)-fumes close to the cigar lighter...fuel soaked carpet...all could be very dangerous. Just a few things to consider. Not to mention melted pistons and ring damage from a lean engine. Would love to see an original survivor setup and be able to study it. Maybe the gauge setup was optional??  Also amazed to see most of the 33 cars sold with the Paxton were Brittany Blue. This is a Really nice example.
Thanks again for the pictures.
R.R.

I believe that the gauges were a option on a Paxton equipped car. I know that they did not automatically come in the Paxton blower kits. The kit included the centrifugal blower, carb enclosure, air cleaner /silencer, mounting brackets, pulleys, drive belts, gaskets, necessary, hardware and installation instructions. I agree it is and was dangerous for the fuel line to be plumbed directly to the gauge but that is how it was done originally on the Paxton Shelby's with gauges as well as other make and model cars of the day were done. Modern fuel pressure gauges get a signal from electronic senders or by using a mechanical isolator with a non-flammable liquid that travels to the gauge. That is at least the ones taking on the risk and not wanting to stray from the historic way. FYI  there may have been one but I don't remember hearing or reading about a report of the fuel gauge line being the culprit or making a accident fire worse. At the very most it didn't happen often. Still dangerous. 

Maybe the buyer could not drive a manual transmission - the price paid is more reflective on the buyer than the car I think.

I would agree.  If the car checks all of the boxes, and money is no object, someone is going to pay what it takes to buy the car.

As for the stripes, when I drive my '66, I still get asked why I do not have Le Mans stripes.  I tell them it came without stripes.  They seem surprised as they think all Shelbys came with stripes.

That has been going on for at least the early 70's. I remember the first time getting asked the same question when in line at a self car wash with a stripe-less 66 back in 1972 . The know it all insisted it wasn't a Shelby because it didn't have the stripes. Without a word I walked to the front and opened the hood. I pointed to the Shelby tag.  He walked off mumbling to himself .

I have a fan shroud with part number C8ZE-8146-B. I would like to verify that this is the correct fan shroud for a 68 GT350 before I put it for sale.

Verification given. Best of luck on the sale.

2 1966 Shelby S2MS-6A582-B valve covers. In original Ford Blue oval script boxes. Boxes have the part number stamped on them and one has a date of 7/9/69. The other has a date of 2/4/69. These are the black solid letter ones. These are way nicer and very different from the reproduction versions.

$700 plus shipping.

Can you post a picture of them showing the "fang" detail in the rib at the pcv and breather opening.

Heres a piece you dont see often

And it will take a day of prep to be reused

 https://www.ebay.com/itm/204162488415

And a early marker light version at that.