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It depends on what your definition of impeccable is. Impeccable is a pretty strong evaluation. Too strong IMO from the standpoint of a "Stunning rotisserie restoration to MCA Concours specifications" as stated in the description.  With my judges cap on there are a lot of mistakes under the hood ,undercarriage ,trunk and some even on the exterior. Although nice looking from the pictures it would most likely be a  Bronze or low silver and that is just based on items I can see in the pictures . No doubt there are things incorrect from a concours perspective that there are not pictured which would be further deductions in concours. Still a bronze category car is still heads and shoulders more concours correct compared to the majority of cars out there. 

It looks like there are some issues with the wires given those different readings. Rev away.

I like it

I found it interesting the lug nut bag in the trunk it appears to have at least one lug nut that looks like a 10 spoke type of lug nut while the bag should contain 5 standard steel wheel lug nuts. I noticed the latch support has black paint flaking off also. Just studying it from an originality non messed with point of view. Lots to like on this car though.

Not a ten spoke lug nut more like a generic dress up wheel lug nut. Regardless as you pointed out it needs to be the stock short acorn style steel wheel nut in the bag.

Here are some photos of what others have described starting with the large retaining collar version used on 69/70 truck bumpers and which has the same SAE-L 64TK JWH chrome cover and glass lens.

That one is a close alternative because of the printing on the metal cover however the cover does not have the little metal holding prongs around the perimeter like original. Of course you could improvise something to hold it in. Over the years I have had to make up a usable bulb receptacle and found a donor from the napa catalog. 

Great question, Bob! I believe the horn worked fine when pulled. I have an older multimeter, but I am getting readings of 13.0 Ohms and 4.6 Ohms for the two circuits.

You may want to clean the ring contacts on the bottom side of the wheel for best connection and try again.  Your readings would indicate a problem with the wires buried inside the wheel. First off each wire and corresponding ring should have the same or very close reading on the multimeter. If the multimeter when set on ohms displays a value very close to zero or goes full tilt, then there is no break in the wire. Other then that would indicate a partially broken or broken wire. Many times used wheels end up on the market separated from a 67 Shelby because the wheel was replaced sometime in the past to fix a inoperable horn circuit with a different wheel. I have had to repair 67 Shelby wheels with broken wire or wires inside them before. The fix is somewhat involved and not very easy. FYI before anyone asks ,I would be glad to talk someone through the fix but I don't personally do it anymore.

I have a 1967 GT 350, I recently had the car painted, when I got the car back I noticed that the serial number plate was missing, there are several vendors that I can get the plate from, but, I have been trying to find someone that can stamp the numbers-letters, does anybody know a shop that can do that?

There's a couple different places to get another tag made.
Actually, I've heard stories like this before.

I was purchasing an original owner GT 350 in Massachusetts years ago.
The owner just had it repainted.
It was a nighmist blue 4 speed.
I complimented the owner on his car and the condition.
At the last moment I asked him about the original tag missing.
He stared at me and became alittle frustrated.
After a few moments he started to examine the tag on the car and then he just got pissed off.
The next day he called and told me the body shop had in fact lost the tag and quietly had a reproduction made.

There is a lesson!
Don't be afraid to take the tag off before you drop it off at a shop for a restoration.

+1 . Don't be scared to drill out the rivets so as to put the plate in a safe place during repair etc. No harm no foul if the rivets are changed out.  The rivets by Shelby American were just generic pop rivets . The black anodized rivets used on later 67 cars are most easily procured from AMK because most hardware stores only sell the silver aluminum rivets like used on 65,66 and early 67 and 68. They are not special for the Shelby's like some urban legends imply.

Have you checked continuity between the individual horn wires and the corresponding individual horn rings on the bottom side? In other words will the horn work when the wheel is installed.

The bulb receptacle that has a positive and a ground wire is just as hard to find . Of course receptacle can be improvised just like the lenses cover cap with the repro plastic chrome cap and lens can for original. 

I have a 1967 GT 350, I recently had the car painted, when I got the car back I noticed that the serial number plate was missing, there are several vendors that I can get the plate from, but, I have been trying to find someone that can stamp the numbers-letters, does anybody know a shop that can do that?

You should work to find the original plate. The ones that you can get from the several venders are different in small ways from a original and can be identified as reproduction because of those differences. The proper number and letter stamps are another level of difficulty to get to look as original.

Has any paperwork at all been found on steel hoods? How many were made? When they were made?

If there is any paperwork Howard would most likely have it.

Thanks guys,  After much research, I think we have the definitive answer, and the diagrams in the 1997 Shelby American World Registry were helpful.    I did notice that the diagram in the later registry had the error in showing the front of the car twice.   So, here's my next question:  How much weight (lead shot ankle weight bags)
should I add to the inside of each door to simulate the completed door assembly weight ?    The window regulator, and glass, windwing, handles, and door card probably weigh more than I think.  Maybe 15 pounds Anyone have a recommendation ?    I can add that weight so that the side stripes are consistent from the front fender, through the bottom of the door, and onto the bottom of the rear quarter panel.  Thanks, Mark 

My recommendation is to wait until the car is all but completely done before painting the side stripes . Guessing on how much weight to add to the doors and then adjusting them etc. is a recipe for disaster. If painting  the stripes on a completed car was the way Shelby American did it then why mess with was success. 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/265569142613?_trkparms=amclksrc%3DITM%26aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20211130125621%26meid%3Dbf2c85423b4b4f47bcad8b2a4659121b%26pid%3D101465%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D4%26sd%3D156932106488%26itm%3D265569142613%26pmt%3D0%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D3650466&_trksid=p3650466.c101465.m3507

What am I missing with this? Do you get the car with it?

If not a mistake my best guess that the point is not to sell the block for the astronomical price but to call him (contact information in the description)about other blocks and parts. In other words a advertisement.

Brian your effort is very much appreciated. Thank you again.

My 1969 shop manual shows for a 351W without AC, there is not a distributor vacuum control valve in the waterneck.  Is that correct?  I thought all cars had one. 

It looks like the distributor vacuum advance in my 69 GT350 was designed to receive full manifold vacuum.  Not ported/timed vacuum.

The thermostat housing has the opening for the vacuum switch but it has a plug put in it from the engine plant.

Yes that is it in the trunk. That is really telling that whoever worked on it and put it together didn't know how to do it right.