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Well an update, I was able to recreate the texture for the decklid and in doing so did find the original "part/engineering" number on the declid. Not sure if the resolution comes out well at least I know that it is original now.

That looks historically accurate IMO. Congrats on the great job and effort.

For those reading I have collected a number of the factory sequential boxes that I have confirmed working by installing on a car that if you are interested contact me by PM for the nominal fee. This is not the place to post a for sale part.

Speaking of having a Ford vin and a Shelby vin on 67s the take  I got is little red was titled when sold by the Ford vin. So today is the car titled by the Ford vin or the known Shelby vin?

To answer Gary's specific question,- from a pure number stand point and not from a authentication of the body standpoint that Ford vs. Shelby VIN information may be an interesting footnote for some ,a matter of personal pride or a strategy to keep raising value vs personal property tax assessments (where applicable)under the radar to others. From a strictly identification stand point it really doesn't matter if the Ford VIN is used or not because the information is out there by SAAC and on that particular noted 67 GT500 coupe from other sources to determine what it is by cross referencing the Ford VIN and the Shelby VIN. There are aspects of the Ford VIN regardless of what year Shelby car that are specific and easily identified without looking up or contacting SAAC by a large number of knowledgeable enthusiasts that have educated themselves.Of course a complete authentication of the body and VIN are needed even if the car has all original numbers and authentic Shelby VIN tag.  Thank you SAAC for establishing this information chain available to the world.

Why would the police remove the tag in the 1970s?

If the police got involved my first thought is that it probably got taken off to verify the Ford VIN and than got misplaced. It was more common back than but still common today for the police and other government agencies not to understand the legitimacy of how Shelby identified the cars that they manufactured. Many states to this day only recognize the Ford VIN. Of course with enough owner documentation and pushback they can be forced to recognize the facts. 

If your booster is nice on the outside (no rust pits) you may want to confirm that they are rebuilding what you send and not an exchange where you may get one of lesser quality back.

I have read that installing a shunt resistor is advisable to avoid a fire or a lack current with a faulty gauge. My gauge works, but at 58 years old I'd hate to have a problem down the road. Has anyone installed one of these with success? Any advice on what type of shunt resistor I should buy?

I am having my tach converted for the same reason but that's more straight forward.

I'm sorry but I don't have advice on the shunt resistor but have some insight on the issues that you are concerned about. Although possible I haven't heard of this problem with the alternator gauge wiring historically or otherwise being an issue over many decades of being an enthusiast. The tach sometimes (not often ) goes bad but if it does and your car will not start all you have to do is disconnect the wires from the tach  and plug the two ends from the under dash harness together for the car to start and run again.This allows you to drive the car while having the tach repaired. I believe that you are being over concerned about possible problems however it is your car and if it causes you undue stress by all means do what you have to do.

Hi John,

This thread might help....https://www.saac.com/forum/index.php?topic=24205.msg181211

This is what I ended up using, was in my jar of OE (& similar) type fasteners. Don't know if it's the correct cursive script bolt mentioned, just used it because it fit, although did have to shorten it ~1/4".

Dave

The cursive f is a safe bet IMO.

That hood has been on the car ever since I first saw it in the mid 1980's here in CO. It is I believe an aftermarket hood from back in the day. There was also another 66 GT350 that was in the CO area that came from CA and it had a similar hood.

Maier racing has been in the Shelby fiberglass business for 55+ years now. They were located in CA in the Bay area for decades but made a move to Idaho. If a reproduction fiberglass hood was procured in the 70's or early 80's it most likely came from them .

67 mustang convertible.

You would most likely get more response and insight from participants on the Vintage Mustang Forum given that they are focused more on modifications to regular Mustang and the restomod culture.

For those reading there are a couple of different style shackles that were sold in the Ford parts department. Some sets were like assemblyline and others not. The last ones that were serviced before they went obsolete were made of a lot thicker steel when compared to the assemblyline shackles.

I don't keep track of Marti's company stock numbers. The 67 GT350 wires should be marked radio resistance from the factory. They should not be the SX wires steel core wires.

They don't show a part number for the 3 set versions they offer...in you case the top set

Thanks JD & Bob!

So then that would be the SPW-6. For some reason I thought they should be the solid core - which are the SPW-4. (Part #s are in the link rather than rendered on the page) Maybe my radio will start working now lol.

Steel solid core wire is known to cause static in AM reception. A little less with FM and also known to cause interference with MSD,Petronix and other electronic ignition systems. FYI the SA comp cars back in the 60's ran the stock wires. Interviews with old team members said that they noticed no difference in performance between the two types of wires.

Quick question, have found some misleading information online -

What are the concours correct Marti Auto Works repro plug wires for double digit '67 GT 350. I think they're the SPW-4 (SX) Steel Core. I'm sure someone knows for sure : )

btw - If there's a better set from another vendor please advise.

Thanks!

I don't keep track of Marti's company stock numbers. The 67 GT350 wires should be marked radio resistance from the factory. They should not be the SX wires steel core wires.

Hello Folks

Peter in England here.  I am visiting the US (Pa) the second two weeks of May

I have some GT/CS books which I believe are in pretty high demand

I can give references as to who I am. Vernon Estes and Peter Geisler can vouch for me

I can bring these over and post as soon as I arrive in May

Is there any interest?

I've seen the black one advertised and sold at $500 online from a vendor

Happy to hear your thought on the three of them

Thank you.  Peter Cavallo former multiple Shelby owner and now selling Mustangs in England

Happy to provide as many photos to show condition as you would like.

Video call as well is no problem

Pmustang@gmail.com

This forum member has been a contributor and has been around in a positive way for many years now. Best of luck on your trip.

If the cam is in the up position, the pump will slide in fairly easily.. Sounds like you did it right and got lucky with a position of the cam upon install.

     Roy

Thanks Roy. Start up is tomorrow when the Permatex fuel resistant gasket maker has cured. If the float bowls are still not filling then the only thing it could be is a blocked fuel rail direct to carb.

Don't forget about what I wrote about the gas cap.

You can feel the etch by dragging a fingernail across the surface. Etching on the outside also catches dirt particles.