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I have a NOS Correct OE cable (casing and core) for all 65-66 4-speed cars,Ford C5OZ-17260-A, still in the clear ford bag if anyone else needs one.

The good news is that the restorer probably learned a lot from mistakes he made on Jerry's car. The bad news is I lost count of all of the fubar misinformation that he preached during the video. Of course you can count on the forum to fill in the blanks if need be.

For Sale,   what I believe is the original driveshaft from 6S383 from my ownership dating back ~25 years.    When I purchased the car through my sale it had a T5Z conversion.   The original transmission, crossmember etc. were shipped with the car when I sold it a few years ago.   2 weeks ago when in my garage attic I discovered the driveshaft.    I believe it is original to this late '65 built car. At some point it was painted black.    Included is the yoke and U-joints. I'm in Laplata, MD 20646 and am close to Northern Virginia, etc..   I'll also be headed north to Erie, PA in 2 weeks if that helps.   Due to the size/weight I doubt this is worth shipping..   How about $200 and I can meet a reasonable distance..      I'll try to get some pics up here or ping me:  jknott@erols.com    thanks 

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Measuring the the driveshaft from middle of Ujoint yoke to other end middle of drive shaft yoke will determine if it is from a hipo or not. With that said the the internal clip front and rear yoke (65/66 Mustang)are hard to find in usable condition .67-73 are external clip.

What about the roll up window handle springs available from Amazon and Summit Racing?  I am not sure of the demensions.

Mr Johnson

Although not concoursious correct, left with no other alternative this maybe a slam dunk. Two points awarded !

The springs you picture that fit behind the door panel will not work. They are too large in diameter and too tall.

It is hard to tell from the picture(lighting etc.) because it hardly shows any overspray color passed the upper lip. It typically showed up more pronounced.Given the green doesn't appear to show up in the lower picture it needs more. Don't over think the process. The assemblyline painters used guns that spray a lot of volume by contrast typical modern guns don't. Of course the base coat clear you are probably using doesn't cover as well like the assemblyline single stage did. You may have to improvise so as to get more visible color in that wheel well area.  Imagine how the assemblyline worker did the process with the high volume gun and working fast sprayed the lip with no concern about overspray on the wheel well side. Everything thing got a liberal dose of over spray. Of course it varied from one car to the next and from one painter to the next . There was typically a range of coverage .You would typically see some color in the lower picture too.I am sure Jeff will be along to show some pictures or if you don't want to wait you can go to the Concours Mustang site and look at examples in the unrestored threads by year.

Thanks Bob. I'll keep looking

I have a NOS one if looking for a concours part .  PM me if interested.

has anyone made a decal that looks assembly line correct that sells them? What color white was used on them for 67 GT500?

There has been a Osborn one available for years. NPD sells them https://www.npdlink.com/product/decal-fuel-filter-autolite/125859 . Like most Osborn things like that it is completely different in every way compared to a genuine one when put side by side .

Is February, 5BA, too early for this application? 

Of course a possible date but not that likely IMO. If a C5OF-E duel point it is still the correct model distributor for the application however.

I was thinking that my car 6S209 would have been built at the end of the 65 model year and the engine would have been a bit before that and the distributor would have been built before that --- all that would take you close to the start of the calendar year ( I should have stated that I was talking early calendar year). Does that make sense?

In other words you made a mistake. We all make them. Unless everything else on your car is dated correctly I wouldn't worry about a date code. In concours venues for example like SACC DIV II or MCA trailered concours, dates + or - are not considered for deductions or extra points. In fact it is hard if not impossible to typically read the date code without aid once installed. Arguably a little later then mid 65 date would be a safe code for the engine to be born with IMO. 

I hadn't seen Dirk for a few years but when I did he always had a smile on his face and a kind word. Another one of our Shelby family lost. Condolences to his family and friends. 

Thanks for posting.

Yes interesting service replacement. Will be interesting to see how the design of the label compares to the original period examples. 

As far as a judging event I would say I don't see any difference between the 65 GT350 fuel filter canister and the 67 GT500 one and in the same way I would expect the coil, voltage regular and other markings to be present. One is no lessor that the others in importance. Any deduction for the lack of any of these wold be small to the point were it would be very very unlikely to make any difference in the award you would receive at any of the shows/organizations mentioned.  This would also be consistent with past and current practices in other parts of the expectations and judging IMO. And consistency is so important


In FULL disclosure I have restored 67 GT500 canisters in the past with the factory silk screening but anyone that knows me, knows that is not why I have the opinion shared above. Goes back to consistency 

Before I get a handful of request, like a lot of things I'm created and made, I not interested in marketing parts in my "free" time.

Jeff, from past examination the silk screening between the unpainted service canister and the assemblyline Autolite canister appear to be the same size font style etc. I only keep the assemblyline canisters on the shelf. The unpainted ones get another home as quick as I can find them one.    

No affiliation...

Not painted the correct white color, just mentioning it in case anyone is interested in an inexpensive alternative:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/167616422692

Alternative yes. A very interesting later service replacement anomaly it is. Better then a plain painted white or a FOMOCO marked double fluted repro canister it could be argued that the unpainted Autolite marked one is less than. At least by concours SAAC/MCA standards.  For concours for example the canister should be double fluted which the Autolite marked one is . The canister should be painted white which the Autolite marked one is not . In SAAC DIV II or MCA trailered concours a trademark although desirable is not mandatory . A incorrect assemblyline trademark typically could merit  a minor deduction or a note. A unpainted or wrong color painted canister is a small deduction. At least that is the way I see the value of ether. Others may have a different opinion.   

The hose clamps would not be touched during the original intake exchanged process. The bolts were taken out of the thermostat housing and the housing with hoses attached folded back out of the way.  I would paint in place if you can. If reusing a older clamp, a bead blasted clamp etc. You may want to do a preliminary painting before a final painting in place once a assembled.

Bob,

Was the housing with hoses attached folded back out of the way the typical process? Just asking because the French Film shows the housing attached to the intake while being installed, at least during this production time which we think was early March 1966. This shot also shows what appears to be a new (not painted) hose fitting.

Dave

Dave ,I can understand your question based on the one film. As Jeff S pointed out it is hard to say if the process for the French film was staged in some degree or not. I believe the folding back of the thermostat housing with hose attached was the most typical based on first hand inspection of many 65,66 and 67 GT350's that seemed to be done the same way. It goes without saying that it is was also a efficient way of doing things.  Of course procedures can and could and most likely did change from time to time depending on personnel, direction etc.  As far as the fitting it could be argued that a new fitting was used for production value. They got pretty tore up looking after being wrenched off so I can understand why a new one might be substituted. Also I suspect there was a criteria based on condition and labor for determining if a fitting was to be to reused or not. At least that is the most logical reason I can come up with to explain why fittings being seen both ways in some vintage pictures and on survivor cars. I typically use a new fitting all things being equal instead of a painted one because I think it looks better . That is unless I am working on/restoring  a car where the one that I took off was painted .

Bob

That is what I thought. I plan on painting the clamps attached to the hose while off the car and install. That would help with the worn areas you referred to on the hose and clamps.

The hose clamps would not be touched during the original intake exchanged process. The bolts were taken out of the thermostat housing and the housing with hoses attached folded back out of the way.  I would paint in place if you can. If reusing a older clamp, a bead blasted clamp etc. You may want to do a preliminary painting before a final painting in place once a assembled.

I purchased a 66 GT 350 Hertz a few months back and starting some detail work in the engine bay to freshen up the look. I have a few questions related to the thermostat area and radiator hose.

The elbow hose painted Blue along with the tower clamps.

The heater hose elbow on top of the intake painted Blue.


I removed the original upper and lower radiator hose and noticed the replacement markings are different. The upper reads C5ZE-8286-A and has an AY next to the Fomoco label. The lower hose reads C4ZE-8260-A with the AY next to the Fomoco label.

Are the reproductions just a generic version of the originals?

Thermostat housing was unbolted and folded back with bypass hose and clamps while aluminum intake was installed so those items would be painted engine color. The heater hose fitting could be ether way. Sometime they were reused and other times they were not and a new one used. If you plan on it being engine color you better plan on the paint to be rough and chipped as it would be if transferred over. That is if you want it to be historically correct . Many people don't go to that trouble to rough up the paint on things like intake bolts, thermostat housing bolts and heater hose fitting (when painted) .