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Having been a participant and a judge, I found out that deductions are not always fair, bit they do have a way of balancing out in the long run. Judges can miss obvious things and they never get deducted. They are also human and learn new things each time they judge cars.

Good points. It reminds me of when I got caught speeding and was mad at the cop for giving me the speeding ticket. I then thought about all of the other times I was speeding and didn't get caught for speeding.

You lost points for original tags? That would be very atypical. To the best of my knowledge the policy is no deductions for original tags regardless of condition

Deducting points for a beat up tag is a foreign concept to me.   None of the judges I XXXX(am aware of) deduct for a worn tag.

What about 67? Similar to 68?
Jon

I revised reply #2 . 67 and 68 are the same.

Many people switch over to DOT5 fluid. It doesn't attack paint like DOT3. There are many arguments for and against DOT5, but I'll let you research it.

If you use DOT 5 like many of us especially on show cars you make make sure you disassemble your brake cylinder ,proportioning valve ,wheel calipers and master cylinder and clean them out before reassembling them all lubricated with Dot 5. This eliminates the possibility of cross contamination as DOT 3,4 are not compatible with Dot 5. At least if you don't you run the risk of things getting gummed up inside. New parts and all of the rebuilders I am aware of use DOT3/4

So i need to relocate as this is a 68.

Pat

Your car your choice.I would suggest getting all of the 68 assemblyline manuals . The clips are illustrated in the electrical manual.

69 has a different shift control which explains the different mounting.

69 has 1 but dont 68 have 2 by shifter

You are remembering correctly . 68 has two . The first one goes on the front shift control adapter plate holding bolt  as in the picture and the second one goes on the rear shift control bolt.

Its amazing to me how many BaT cars have reproduction tags. Apparently that doesnt bother bidders

I think it typically goes back to the practice of a new looking reproduction tag to match the new restored rest of the car. Of course there are other incentives to install a new tag.

Another help request for 5s444.  Per Bob G's recommendation, I will be using a sealer/undercoat product to "connect-the-dots" on the various areas of the firewall, after all components are installed.  My research in looking for an aerosol can with a straw type applicator only came up with a product called Woolwax Spray Can Undercoat kit with trigger type handle and flexible wand tip.
  So does anyone have a recommendation for a similar or better product with an aerosol can and straw type applicator that the other restorers use
  I have attached a few photos of the pedal assembly that's going in the car very soon.  Thanks for the help.  Mark

Master cylinder was painted a semigloss black together with cap prior to installation. There were two small rubber plugs placed into the fitting openings so paint would not get in. There should be two round bare metal spots about the size of a dime after the removal of the rubber plugs. For those reading, 65 and early 66 Master cylinders required the use of brass adapters that went from pipe thread to flare fitting seats. Later 66 masters and all of the replacements had the flare fitting seats made into the master cylinder.The brass adapter fittings were installed after painting.   

Did the 1968 Shelbys with A/C have a C8ZX... tag on them?

Typically yes.

acceptable

A correct statement . Just to clarify to the OP so that there is no question, the 68 Shelby AC York compressor is expected to be ether bare aluminum or painted no smudge aluminum. 

Thanks Bob,  I was able to clean, detail and save my original SJ firewall pad.  Check out the photos.  Mark

It looks great. Be sure to install all of the underdash components,wiring ,brakes accelerator etc. first . You want all of the things that come out of the firewall into the engine side done first so that you can seal them like the factory did with the sound deadener/sealer. This is so much easier to do BEFORE the engine is installed. Everything that is except where the engine ground strap attaches to the firewall from the back of the head. That goes on after so as to get a good ground. Zinc dichromate star washer against the firewall,then ground strap terminal and all secured with the 3/8 sheet metal screw. All of this is covered in the assemblyline manual's 

You probably already know this but put the firewall pad in first before steering box etc. I hope that you were able to aquire a SJ style dimpled firewall pad . The repros are horrendously ugly.

I looks much better then shiny black plastic IMO. It looks like you might need a slight touch up on the black bracket and door arm but then you should be good to go.

I don't have access to my car for a while.  I'm not sure measuring springs installed on a car will be helpful.  My springs have sagged a bit.

I can do some measurements when I get the car back.

The length of the springs should not be different sagging or not.