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Interesting.  Guess I'll be removing the grommet and rubber cap from 6S817 as well.  They came with my last carpet I put in about 10 years ago.  Thank for the info.

The rubber cap is easy enough to remove but something to consider, unfortunately if the grommet has been added the hole is now too big and obviously so once removed. In that case the grommet might make the most sense to leave in place. Just a thought. FYI the original dimmer switch hole was typically done with a simple X cut in the carpet that the dimmer switch pushed up through consequently it was a close fit.

The dimmer switch cap was originally used only on convertibles IIRC...

- and no grommet in the carpet.

I would have a pro paint the car and that would mean focusing on the handful of A-list individuals/shops we are all familiar with.

I wouldn't have anyone run a 80 grit DA sander over the sheet metal or god forbid original
fiberglass.
You can kiss your high crown panels goodbye.
Just to emphasize, I did not sand my original factory SMC fiberglass however aftermarket replacement panels with a gloss gelcoat would have to be sanded before priming.
Concerning sheet metal, I've used most of the etching phosphoric acids, Metalprep, Sherwin Williams Dual Etch,
Dupont's ,the PPG product (can't remember their names) since I was a teenager and always had excellent results.
Just follow the directions.

Thanks,
TonyS
 

Tony ,you kind of evaded answering the question. The reason why I ask the question was that if you were painting the car yourself you can make the decision that makes the most sense to you. If however someone else is doing the car a typical professional shop will want to use their materials and follow mfg. procedures to ensure insurance that the shop and the paint MFG will stand behind the finished job. That means from the bare fiberglass or bare metal up. The surface job is only as good as the surface and or materials under it. If a paint failure and the MFG rep discover that a prescribed procedure has not been followed or non compatible material has been used then you void the warranty. I would be worried about a shop that didn't care about doing the job from bare surface up because when push comes to shove I don't believe they will pay for a failed job if the disaster happens. But that is just me.

I had no idea early 66 GT350s did not have the S2MS number on them.  I know they were not exactly assembled according to SFM number but what's the best guess as to around what serial number the S2MS numbers began appearing?  Did carryover cars have no markings or were they using S1MS numbers?

Thanks

All 65 and some early 66 GT350's had the 3259 list number only. After the 503(Oct 65) per Dan Case date code batch was done I believe was when the S2MS number was added besides the 3259 list number.

The problem has been fixed. My buddy came over and noticed that there were two adjustment points upper and lower on the equalizer bar. That wasn't the problem. The problem was that the z bar had been intentionally bent to accommodate a Lakewood bell housing that my father insisted be put on the car. As a result the lower rod was permanently at what looked like a 30 degree angle from straight. He took the bar off and brought it back to his garage and used a vice to secure it and bend the lower bar straight. There was about an inch and a half that was pushed away from the scattershield. He also noted some spring was missing that is supposed to bring the clutch pedal up to be even with the brake pedal.  I thought it was normal for the pedal to drop down with about an inch of play. Apparently not. Here are some pics. Car drives nice now. I let him drive it and he got on it. I drive like a grannie but it was nice to see how responsive the car was and how fast it goes. He was driving it more like it should be driven. Thank you all for your input!

I think it would have been prudent to have welded in some strength gussets like in previous pictures while you had it out. FYI you have the 65 style Z Bar.The 66 is the same bar except you take off the swivel block with the hole in it . Instead of a straight rod with the nuts on each side the 66 bar from the pedal has a 90 degree bend on the engine side end and it goes into the hole left from taking off the swivel block. It is held in place with a pin.  It works ether way just thought you would like to know that one way (the way you have it ) is for 65 and the other way is the way it came on the assemblyline in 66. Glad to hear you got it back together with a minimum of effort.

I have been putting together a HI PO motor with block, heads, and intake date coded 6K. My question is what date code distributor would be correct? Would the Fomoco or Autolite be correct? I see the Autolite with date codes in the 6J, M which are before and after the date on the block and not sure if I need the Fomoco or Autolite. Any help would be appreciated.
 

No absolute but if it mine I would try for a FOMOCO.Seen some early 67's with FOMOCO so there's that.

Are you going to paint the car or have someone else do it?

Certainly easier then modifying a stock one yourself.

Two different things from two different makers.

Never seen anything related to Hon-O-Drives being an option. Of course dealers would do just about anything that would make a sale if it didn't alter emissions or warranty sorts of things. Of course this would not be considered factory in any way.

Don't recall ever seeing one installed on a 67 - 70 Shelby.  Must have been really unpopular with new buyers and other owners after them

+1

Like the Ford pan however no paint. It was not sourced from a in use Ford pan like intake bolts were switched out from the cast iron one..

Actually I was thinking first Drew could talk you through adjusting it yourself. He knows all of the little tricks. At least something you can try before you send it off to him.

Contact Drew https://www.afscarbs.com/services . He is top in my book.

Pete, I guess my question is can you tell on this car it's the fuel vapor line recall was done to it or not that may be a telltale sign

Not really a telltale sign . Many cars never went back in for the recall. I know of numerous owners who drove their cars for decades without knowing of the potential problem. I would be nervous to drive a 69/70 GT500 without the recall but that is just me . I have had two second hand bad examples of what can happen that are always in the back of my mind. 

It is not to adjust the float level. You have to adjust the floats by taking off the float bowl and adjusting. It is primitive compared to later versions. At least I thought that was what you were thinking. Sorry if I was wrong. 

FYI I just saw a bogus Ebay auction for a C8AF-11001-A 428CJ Starter. A genuine starter will have the engineering number metal stamped in the center barrel along with the metal stamped AUTOLITE trademark. This rebuilder puts a ink stamp (which was phased out in later 67 production). Stay away from these guys
 https://www.ebay.com/itm/284302210702