Messages

I'm looking for an oil pressure gauge for the center console on a GT500 convertible.

FYI the gauges are the same for 69/70 Shelby regardless of GT350/500 ,fastback or convertible. Best of luck with your search.

The original issues, that means first versions released, of covers for 1964 engines were produced for Shelby American in 1963 and they did not have any "BUDDY BAR" markings anywhere. A single wooden master was used to produce raw castings. Any raw casting could be machined and finished for a PCV valve grommet or an oil fill and engine vent tube.

Before Cobra CSX2201 the custom COBRA POWERED BY FORD sand cast aluminum covers were a special option for a new Cobra that somebody had to order to get them factory installed. CSX2201 through CSX2589 street cars and some racers had them as standard "options" that would be installed unless somebody ordered a new Cobra without them.

Dearborn Steel Tubing Company also packed covers with fasteners as kits. Some number of the covers without BUDDY BAR markings also passed through that channel for over-the-counter accessory sales.

The lack of BUDDY BAR markings does not automatically mean covers are not genuine Shelby-Ford parts from 1963-64.  It takes looking for other characteristics that covers made in 1963 had to positively identify them as originals or not.

Most 1964 model year covers used in new Cobras did have the BUDDY BAR markings. 

I agree with you Dan about the very early valve covers did not have the buddy Bar trademark but the other things in the discussed auction stand out as issues that indicate repro to me especially given the description "Shelby Mustang GT350' context. 65 and early 66 GT350 valve covers do not typically have vent tubes for breather caps on both valve covers nor do typically the very early valve covers that I have seen. The very early valve covers that I have seen with no buddy bar typically had no opening and were all fins. I still believe in this instance we are dealing with repro for reasons I mentioned .

Repro . The seller apparently has not done his/hers research . Besides not having the buddy Bar casting evidence needed for genuine there are other statements in the description that suggest the seller is less then the most knowledgeable on the subject.

From what I remember, OVC was using original K cars for their builds.  Noticed this one is an A code, anyone have info on that?  How many total cars have they done?

It sounds like they went the way of the Beverly Hills Mustang built 66 continuation convertibles were supposed to be built from K code cars and original K code engines -not. 

Of course it needs refinishing. Hard to give a definite ruling for sure because it has characteristics of both service replacement/repro and assemblyline. The routing out of the wood in some areas is not as close to the emblem contour as most assemblyline style handle  yet it is within expectations in other areas. It's a tweener.    Just my read of the part.

Hi, I can give you the numbers I need. The engineering number is C7ZA-7541-E and the part # is C7ZZ-7515-D. I hope this helps.
Thanks....Greg.

Try Mansfield Mustang . He specializes in BB parts. http://mansfieldmustang.com/Transmission.html

Hi to all,
Just to add to the topic, a word to the wise: DO NOT install any engine parts that have been glass beaded without a complete cleaning of the part--inside and out!!!
Fast way to ruin an engine, parts must be solvent washed and even then all the glass
May not have been removed from the pores of the casting. As for which to install on your car- The steel pan that was originally on it is lighter and much easier to keep clean,and leak free. Just my thoughts.
R.R.

- and the 67 GT350 factory steel pan does not require modification to the power steering hose retaining bracket like the T pan does.

Thanks Bob. yes these were never on a Shelby from the factory. This was only an over the counter item from Ford correct?

Thanks Bob. yes these were never on a Shelby from the factory. This was only an over the counter item from Ford correct?

Sorry but not my field of interest so I can't say definitively one way or the other that it is only a over the counter part for a regular Mustang or Boss. 

Where did the modulator line for the transmission end on automatic cars?  Since it's not shown on the intake fitting I assume maybe the carburetor?

Thank you both for the images

JD's first picture shows it getting vacuum at the check valve nipple that is typically capped on a 4 speed GT350.

FYI given the Shelby forum I thought it is important to note so that there is no mistake that the C8ZZ-B antenna assembly was not used on any year Shelby from the factory.

The fuel tank needs to be vented. Your tank appears to have been "sucked up". I" 'll say great fuel pump you have there.
  As far as the detonation goes, it might be related. You'll find out after the venting is remedied.

The fuel tank on 67's is vented at The fuel cap. The issue is there.

To add,given the typical factory vented gas cap I have never heard of or think it logical that it would be a issue of gas sloshing to a point of coming out the vent during acceleration or otherwise.  The cap needs to be vented in some way or negative issues some of which you describe can result. In a worst case situation where the cap portion has been modified for some reason to a point that it can't be reversed you can change out the cap portion of the pop open gas cap assembly with 2 screws if need be. FYI to change out the entire pop open gas cap assembly base and cap requires taken off the fiberglass tail light panel.   

I am in need of a undamaged NOS or excellent used 66 Dash Pad.  No repro original only because grain is different. Black preferred but I will consider other colors. Scammers don't waste your or my time.  PM me if you can help. Thank you for looking.

First, although "Octane-Booster" is convenient and quite popular in the effort to better the anti-knock quality of a lesser than needed fuel, I (and many others) really don't recommend its' use beyond 'emergency' situations were for example you find yourself a long way from "good" fuel and it can be conveniently stored in the vehicle for such instances.  Better, is to utilize 'actual' fuel that presents the necessary octane value, even as mixed with the poorer fuel from the pump. 

     As far as for what it might be as pumped into your vehicle, regardless of that which you might have selected at the pump, this is not a new issue!  As I have worked at a gas station at one time and have known both others of the same, owners of establishments, and even the tanker delivery drivers, and I can assure you that "93" ain't always just that!   

     Scott. 

So you are saying is given the owner doesn't want to rebuild his engine with lower compression different cam change timing etc. and it is determined that the detonation is the result of too low of octane that keeping a 55 gallon drum of race fuel to doctor your tank is ideal. The octane booster would be the next best thing. If this is not what you meant then please clarify.

You can doctor your gas with some race fuel to see if it makes a difference. If it makes a difference you can either keep race fuel on hand or use what I do and instead use a octane booster to doctor my gas on the cars that need it.
  http://www.wildbillscorvette.com/OctaneSupreme01.htm

I would like to know what octane fuel you are currently using besides the compression ratio previously asked for.