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Hi all, As the title says I need to find black and blue made of good quality. I doubt the quality of sites selling recycled plastic floor mats online today.

Does anyone have any suggestions? Thanks for the support.

If you are looking for the reproduction of the vintage running pony style plastic mats that were commonly sourced from Ford dealers in the 60's then Virginia Classic Mustang or National Parts depot or the place to order from.

I can remember back in the day (mid 1970's)with at the time gas rationing crisis to find many big block Shelby's switched over to a small block. The reason was that the Shelby's were every day transportation back then and if it had a big block then it  used way more gas. Gas could be hard to find back then and expensive for that time at least. It was not a out of the ordinary occurrence to find one switched to a small block that way. It wasn't until the mid 80's and later that there was a value incentive to switch them back. Consequently it is rare that you find one that hasn't been switched back today.     

351 auto! Where can I get one that will fit
Thx

National Parts Depot should have the correct concours hose for your application. With that said I have understood that Marti Autoworks the MFG /supplier of the concours quality hose had a problem in the past with supplying the correct fitting hose for the 68,69.70 GT350 which all used the same length hose. Many vendors that Marti sold to experience customer complaints on the poor fit .The hose Marti was supplying was too short. The hose would work but it had to be stretched to fit. You should not have to do that . The correct hose has ample length to work The hose they were supplying was too short. I believe that the problem has been solved but if you get one that is too short you will need to send it back.     

You need to determine if your radiator is original or a aftermarket replacement.A original radiator is very desirable in a vintage Shelby. You can buy a new aftermarket replacement that looks reasonably like original for typical the same or less then having a radiator recored . It makes sense to only have a original recored and not a aftermarket one recored. If you can find a radiator shop to do the work currently to have a radiator 24 inch (69 GT350with A/C) or smaller recored it is going to typically currently be 500.00 plus. Your 69 GT350 radiator if original should have FOMOCO embossed on the top tank and a engineering number metal stamped on the side strap starting with a C8 engineering number. 

Ok thank you to all of you. The radiator in the one I´m doing now is a C8ZE-L1 which is a FE Radiator. The correct one must be the C8ZE-F1 or is it E1 right? Does it has the inlet/ outlet on the same side like on all small block 24" radiators in the mustang before the Boss302 came who had it like the FE Radiators? Because when I see pictures of these radiators they have the inlet and outlets like an FE Radiator but I´m sure that the 68 GT350 has the hoses both on the passenger side. I need some clarification.

The 68 GT350 only used one style of 24 inch radiator. It has the inlet and outlet on the right(passenger side) of the radiator.

HOW TO IDENTIFY A FORUM TROLL
https://www.saacforum.com/index.php?topic=16401.0

I wouldn't waste my time trying to DIY it. I would send it off to a instrument repair like Phidon Restorations  or Instrument Specialties. Have them go through it. They should be able to give you information on what gear needs to be on the cable or in the transmission from factory. They most likely have speedo gear alternative information for different tire size.

HOW TO IDENTIFY A FORUM TROLL
https://www.saacforum.com/index.php?topic=16401.0

I have not always seen the Stant trademark in the same place and sometimes it is under the gasket where you might only see the outside edge of what you know to be the trademark but it is obscured by the gasket.Others no doubt can be completely obscured. The ones that are clearly seen are the very desirable ones.

Another thing that I have noticed on assemblyline GT350 caps is a distinct gold tint to the ring in the on the outside edge of the emblem design. All of the service NOS caps I have ever seen had only a silver ring.

For originals I've got pictures of the Stant mark surrounded by two circles one in side of the other - Initials in the center. Can't post a picture right at the moment 

Stant trademark is what I have seen too.

Wow, a lot for me to unpack and understand. School is in session. Thank you for the info. The coil was moved from the driver's side to the passenger side by my friend. I didn't know this was possible but he said it belonged on the passenger side of the engine block. I tool a couple photos. I will check out the ignition wires as advised.

Good move on coil and keep it as far as possible from the heater hoses.


On the coil take the petronix sticker off.

 Then get model car paint, mix yellow with black until you get the color close to the original coils color. Paint the top.

Magic !

Wow, a lot for me to unpack and understand. School is in session. Thank you for the info. The coil was moved from the driver's side to the passenger side by my friend. I didn't know this was possible but he said it belonged on the passenger side of the engine block. I tool a couple photos. I will check out the ignition wires as advised.

Good move on coil and keep it as far as possible from the heater hoses.


On the coil take the petronix sticker off.

 Then get model car paint, mix yellow with black until you get the color close to the original coils color. Paint the top.

Magic !

Unfortunately the coil in the picture is the much larger common Chevy style coil and is easily distinguished as different compared to the shorter shaped different Ford yellow top coil. It is not worth the time and effort to disguise it because it is so obviously different and it just comes off looking cheesy with a yellow looking top IMO. At least to those that know the difference.  The flamethrower EPOXY style coil from the same company on the other hand is the same size/length and shaped much similar to the Factory Ford coil. Rusto-oleum 250896 Satin Amber is almost a identical match to the proper yellow of the yellow top coil. All in all it will not be a exact replica ether but close enough that it will make those in the know take a second look.      

I could always look for the coil you describe and get it.  They are not expensive.  At least this one wasn't.  It is 1.5 ohms which apparently is recommended for a V8 engine.

Or take off the sticker and leave the rest alone.

* Capacity 7 quarts with oil and filter change per Ford TSB article #2322 published May 1970; add 1 more quart (8 quarts total) if equipped with an external oil cooler.




Mustang 428 Cobra Jet Service Parts | Mustang 428 Cobra Jet Registry
https://www.428cobrajet.org/id-service-parts

The discussion is about a 1968 oil cooler not a 1969 /70.  You are apparently not familiar with the different oil coolers. The 67/68 and the 69/70 oil coolers are completely different shape and consequently have a different capacity. 

Wow, a lot for me to unpack and understand. School is in session. Thank you for the info. The coil was moved from the driver's side to the passenger side by my friend. I didn't know this was possible but he said it belonged on the passenger side of the engine block. I tool a couple photos. I will check out the ignition wires as advised.

Good move on coil and keep it as far as possible from the heater hoses.


On the coil take the petronix sticker off.

 Then get model car paint, mix yellow with black until you get the color close to the original coils color. Paint the top.

Magic !

Unfortunately the coil in the picture is the much larger common Chevy style coil and is easily distinguished as different compared to the shorter shaped different Ford yellow top coil. It is not worth the time and effort to disguise it because it is so obviously different and it just comes off looking cheesy with a yellow looking top IMO. At least to those that know the difference.  The flamethrower EPOXY style coil from the same company on the other hand is the same size/length and shaped much similar to the Factory Ford coil. Rusto-oleum 250896 Satin Amber is almost a identical match to the proper yellow of the yellow top coil. All in all it will not be a exact replica ether but close enough that it will make those in the know take a second look.      

Wow, a lot for me to unpack and understand. School is in session. Thank you for the info. The coil was moved from the driver's side to the passenger side by my friend. I didn't know this was possible but he said it belonged on the passenger side of the engine block. I tool a couple photos. I will check out the ignition wires as advised.

Yes the coil was factory installed on the passenger side. Yes I can see that you are getting power from the coil terminal. I am familiar with your style coil and it has a internal resister so it can be used with the stock resistor wire that steps down the voltage to the coil or with a modified wiring with full 12 volts from the ignition switch bypassing the resister wire wrapped inside the stock wiring harness. The resister inside the aftermarket coil steps down the voltage inside before it gets to the windings. The problem is that if you have a stock wiring harness with the stock resistor wire wrapped inside then your aftermarket coil terminal is getting less then the full 12 volts and consequently since that is where you are getting power for the module is suppling less voltage then what the module needs to work properly. As has been said before sometimes the module will work properly at least for a while with the lower voltage and sometimes it will act up and stop running similar to the symptoms you describe.