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I got that document in hard copy 40 years ago with a Paxton.

Thanks  Interesting mix of "new" and old but not unusual for the time period from some makers

.................  B.T.W. Does anybody have a bill of materials list for one of these (of the period) and if so, is there a line item for a threaded hose-barb fitting for the fuel pump?   

    Scott.

The instructions along with the additional pages from whomever originally scanned them is the same group of documents I have also. One of the pages after the instructions includes a list of (page 11 of the 13 in this group) parts. 53 items with one removed/crossed out of the list and based on the fonts a couple of items added - example hose for the "smog" attachment.

There is a list on one of the following

Does anyone know where you can get the re-pop 15" steel wheels Dennis was speaking about?

He may be referring to something that "fits"  but is not like the originals. Many people choose what details are important and which could be ignored or close enough for them. Reproduction or repop can cover a wide range of just about anything so like everything ask what someone means when they are using terms. Even those that you believe you know don't assume that the other person has the same definition or understanding.  Just like "all original" and so on.

Consider that much of what is available as resources and original documents is not from 67 production so there may have been some changes, a possibility, between when SA was installing them in 66 and then in 67. They would most likely use one of the kits but the worker or workers typically assigned to installation on these few cars may have made some choies to make installation easier.

- The blue prints appear to be labeled GT350 (302) 1968 or at least the copies I have of a blue print show that, so a later version that as Doug mentioned  shows a flex hose coming up to and entering the box. Print is also labeled as Supercharger with Thermactor 

- Pictures of a Paxton installation kit for a Mustang/Shelby, unknown version or year, show a dark colored long hose and two other shorter dark hoses attached to a T for the fuel line as shown in the blue print

- Installation instructions mentions  (Step 26) smog device but this is likely the PCV IMO. The copy I have includes stuff for many different car models, some drawings - not all specific to our cars. Its interesting that in one drawing which could be for a SB ford it shows an autolite carb and not the flex T'd off hoses for the Holley carb application. The "packet" included with the instructions I have also had pages from as far back as 1958 along with what we have believed were more recent sections and pages

- Fair number of earlier than 67 magazines with articles showing the Paxton installed on Mustangs and Ted's 6S392 but as mentioned practice could have changed

- To be fair there are very very few unrestored or played with original Paxton cars especially 67's so photo evidence is very thin. Will offer (not saying it is a smoking gun but must be at least noted) that I've found pictures of two unrestored 67 GT350's that both appear to have modified steel standard fuel line from pump to carb area of the intake.

- Since you specifically asked about judging rather than what was original that can be a different answer. What is allowed verses what was original sometimes becomes a factor when you narrow it to judging.

As far as left (drivers side) verses right (passenger side) orientation it makes perfect sense to me if they were planning on using a Holley then the dual inlets on the passenger side (one for each bowl) would be used. Put a plug in the drivers side inlet of the front fuel bowl, pull off the balance tube and connect a flexible T'd off hose and you have two connections for the fuel needs.

Of course if someone had included the use of an Autolite during the planning and design the passenger side forward edge would line up pretty close to the inlet for that one 

Yes, it was. X denotes the 390 premium fuel 2 barell car. When you see that code you will think its something special!

And an automatic transmission. No choice for 68 Mustang with that engine option

I have never seen Springs used to hold an Exhaust System together.

I have a fair number of times but remember this was also done fairly recently in Europe

Very Cool! Didn't realize they had done a 67 also.

With all of them it does seem unbalanced since he focused only on the nose changes and not ones in other parts of the car.

Will be waiting

If you find a NOS one floating around check it first since it will likely be a later service part and in turn not look like and original if that is what your aiming for

I am working on a 3-9-67 build gt350, inboards, flat tail panel, functional brake vents. K code engine is not numbers matching but if I can find some correct coded parts why not?  but what date codes ranges would be correct for distributor and Carb?  I could also use a OG side scoop one is missing, and a ps cooler.  Lots is missing but thats my main shelby specific stuff.

We can provide an educated guess but we could likely have a better one if you provided the engine assembly date from the drivers side front surface of the engine block. There is a small section of the block that sticks out forward from where the drivers side head mates to the block on that side.

As mentioned the original spray guns applied a lot more product than you will see out of the modern guns today. This often results in more passes with the gun and in turn this makes producing details like shadows that look "real" (original) much more difficult sine each time you pass over to build up the color the gun and in turn the application is at a different angle and that softens the look of a shadow edge that originally was created by sometimes a single pass of the paint gun.

And for some areas such as the rear wheel wells we should likely IMO stop referring to the spray produced in the rear and front wheel wells as being overspray since this often leads people to assume that it was a mist and thin sort of an application. With the painters passing the spray gun directly over the open wheel well with the gun flowing 100% it in most cases created a nice coat of paint on the rear of the wheel well and exposed frame rail.

Back to the request and comments. Yes the green doesn't show up well in low light areas in you pictures so if the application is glossier and much heaver than it seems only you can see that given the color and the lighting. We see the same difficulty with other dark colors. Because of this I offer a couple of lighter and brighter original examples. As you and others view please understand these have often seen a fair amount so its not uncommon for the top paint coat to be warn away, in some cases down to the metal. Reason I placed the Don't symbol in the one picture since I know many will just look at the pictures and not rear the whole post


Hope these help. Need more or have more questions please ask. Remember that others will likely have the same or similar questions and that others will be viewing and reading these in the years to follow. One of the reasons we do this on a public forum

One's a repeat from early in this thread and a couple ar from one of the cars already shown but different angles and areas


In this picture we can clearly see all the white body color that reached the back of the wheel well area. Remember if this was cleaned up it would show even better how much paint is there




Back of the wheel well area (exterior or quarter panel to the left) showing the back and top of this one




Same car different angle and possibly other side of the car showing the top section of the wheel well




Picture showing how far back, of the wheel well on to the rear frame rail and other panels on the area, the exterior paint application reached on this example. From past experience I would bet that at least the frame rails on this car would be cleaned and polished to look as good as the exterior painted surface of the car just to show the amount of paint that reached that surface. 





And lastly. Though this is an example from another year I think the bright original color helps show the extent and amount of color one could typically find (plus the areas worn by usage and time) on cars like ours. Yes the exterior of the car had been repainted but they appear to have not painted over the rear wheel wells

[HUGE!!!!]

Yes NorCal in its peek was HUGE!!!!

Recall one club meeting I attended where there were easily over 100 people in attendance - likely closer to 200. The dynamics were interesting very visible which added to the entertainment factor at times. At least the Mini-Nats continue as a annual event even though it has changed some but what hasn't

Better yet if the car still has the original engine a closer way to estimate when the engine was assembled at Cleveland engine plant since the distributor was installed in the engine there. Better choice IMO than guessing using the Shelby or Ford VIN of you have the original block. 

Think the May will still likely be a good month based on other cars very similar to yours

I was thinking that my car 6S209 would have been built at the end of the 65 model year and the engine would have been a bit before that and the distributor would have been built before that --- all that would take you close to the start of the calendar year ( I should have stated that I was talking early calendar year). Does that make sense?

Maybe you can look for one made a little before May 65. Good luck & hope this helps

Thanks for sharing

He and his family are in our hearts and thoughts in this moment of need and support.