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[P -]

These have been a challenge since they are made of paper and were not designed to last the completion of the cars assembly.

First hope your at least using the reproduction (vinyl verses the original paper) ones with the squared off corners.

Location can slightly or greater vary depending on the specific inspector that placed a specific sticker and for many there are both red and black print ones found on original cars. In addition a lot of them had numbers and in some cases a letter punched into the sticker that identified the inspector in case a defect was found so they could find the inspector and inform them of the issue.

Like many details it might be best if you provide the real completion date for the car at Dearborn so we can focus on what they were doing as well as what inspectors were working in those positions around that same time.

P - For a 69 Shelby find them generally in the drivers side door jamb on the A pillar. Both red and black ink was used. Can find (on non-Shelbys in my collection on the cowl in the drivers side "pocket"  Have seen one fairly early 69 Shelby with a P on the cowl.

These were shared earlier in another thread




F - Often red print on the cowl face above or close to where the hole for the heater motor wire exits the interior or closer the left (looking reward) of the shock tower support on that side.


B -  is often located on the cowl panel just above the pinch weld from firewall to cowl on the drivers side about an inch or two to the outside from the location of the pass through of the wiper motor loom. Most typically in red print. Sometimes when the other inspector places his sticker that can be found to the right (looking rearward) of the "B" then it got applied further to the outside

E- I've not seen or documented (notes or pictures) a E sticker on a 69 Shelby. Would love to see an example of one if they did use them. Of course since 69's were not complete cars when finished there is the possibility a check or two could not be made.

T or T1 - Have pictures of this one l st to the inside/center of the car looking reward Not sure why there is a T and a T1 but may depend on when the car was inspected and by whom. I've found these in black print

Don't think anyone is including the "WW" "C" or "RT" and some others that we sometimes see on 69 Dearborn cars in their "kits" 


Hope this helps

Here are a couple of pictures documenting that, as Bob shares above, the stickers were in place before the hood was painted. Since both of these originals fell or were removed the stickers left a paint shadow behind each



So the finished product would show exterior color (direct or overspray) over the sticker not under 

Yes have seen them as well as dozens of other seats from other cars. High backs like 69 Mach I were popular ones to swap for when they first came out.  As Bob wrote. Not original for 6S521

It really conceals the details of the side of the battery though. So it makes just a "topper" sufficient?

Yes that's the current reproduction. Since no one makes the correct "topper" I would not consider it "sufficient" but opinions and expectations differ   

I think a good repro of these would sell pretty good as I usually only see the later ones. They are all very rare and most of the times I have seen Mustangs/ Shelbys that were restored pretty good but this part was missing.

Thought it was the C7 that was reproduced - never purchased one. And the D0 70 version was the one not reproduced since it covered less production time. Only the black version is made. Some of the black ones, just from observations, were faded black ones IMHO as a results of exposure to heat and who knows what under the hood over the years

Yep here is an add and picture notice the "step in the long side top edge. On a D0 that is not there

Semo Battery Heat Shield

Haven't seen any. They were sort of busy just building cars and racing

............by the way which battery shields exactly?

There were three versions that have been found for the C7 battery heat shield


1- the gray version with the two post surround design

2- the grey version without the two battery posts at the same end.

3- the black version of #2. I've found, seen and owned more of the black versions than any here on the west coast - in fact all but others have seen more of the #2s


The originals long version is what was made but the long end/side of the shield was trimmed to fit different applications. There was a 1970 version that looks close but the long top edge or drop down, as shown in the picture, that goes end to end unlike the C7 version




One of two cast engineering number on the inside - towards battery - of the shield on the long side





Picture of a full size or oversized (for a Mustang/Shelby) NOS one

I remember we had a thread here where we talked about to maybe 3d print the 67 ones from an original. And there was someone who took an old battery and build a new battery "case" from that one where he was able to change the battery inside the original looking case. Something like this would be cool. New working battery inside and outside the look of the 67.

Agreed but so far not many have access to a high end 3D printer and then it would require the additional work. Guessing 10% plus of owners would have to pay someone to make it a working on. For some judged event (if you care about those things) you don't even have to place anything inside. Don't get me wrong, I would love to see something that looked like an original and surprised that after the reported number of people that have looked into it that someone did not choose to make it happen. Fully understand the challenges, cost and time something like this takes. I looked into and was about to sign to make the reproduction battery shields when I discovered someone else was tooling for the same part. Mine were going to be slightly cheaper since I didn't have to make a living off of the project but I didn't want to spend all the time and effort while dividing up a few thousand that might have been sold at that time and over the following ten years

Yes Charles (I wrote you a message for something we talked about,  please reply) and Bob you both are right and I also look for a lot of parts and sometimes I paid way too much. But I think for me the difference is that I dont need to go to concours events and my Shelby is way much better and more correct than the most in Europe which were "restored" compared to my unrestored one. But I want to drive it and use it so a battery change for events is not what I want.


The repros are not so bad and working yes they are not correct but visual for 98% of the people its nice enough and better than my 2nd choice optima. Charles/ Bob are there maybe pictures of a repro battery that was done more to 67 specs? Or may I ask what is the best way to come close to an original one? That would be more interesting for the most of us I think.

It may be OK for 98% of the people as you estimate but you can look at it in a different light. Its OK for allot of owners since there is not a good reproduction and it's a lot less expensive than one that is correct so they settle or justify that its good enough for their car.

As for close to original, breaking it down there is nothing better than currently than the current and for the last three decades or more, reproduction. There have been some that have tried to modify their reproductions in include the early warning area  All of this has been discussed for years both privately, in judging and in pretty long threads here and elsewhere.

One key point that always comes up is we get what we get possibly because the vendors and makers don't see a demand for the original looking ones since everyone is OK/settling for what is available. This line of thinking is also plays out with less expensive, cheaper made or even incorrect reproductions. I asked a maker and vendor once about a part they made and listed for sale for an incorrect application (made for another Ford product) "why do you make and list these parts" . Their response was that "people buy them" was why he made the parts and listed them incorrectly. My response was they purchased the parts because they were advertised for their car. Similar things took place when you saw "concours approved".

Bottom line is that some are ok with non-Hipo heads, non-original style harmonic balancers on their cars and so on. Building a car is full of choices and its great that we each get to choose (considering out pocket book, intended goal, use and what is important) to us and try and reach that goal. One thing about using the current battery is that since there are no good reproductions every one tends to purchase them and people in general and in turn viewers start assuming they are correct and if you have an original many will assume it is incorrect.

The main battery discussion thread on this site with plenty of pictures I was referring to

Group 22 & 24 Assembly Line Battery

Just as a mention there is an early 67 version that was modified for later use. Original design was thought to damage the radiator according to Ford TSB. Modification was to round the corner edges a bit

Yes looks like the overflow nipple was installed in the wrong (clocking) spot so to rotate and install it to the top tank in the correct or close location that put the clocking of the cap in a different spot than typical. Don't know where (if repaired by a shop) they got another neck and you don't see those replaced very often. With this said I've seen a very few with the similar condition on originals and in restored cars.

The cut out for the cap is typically centered over where the nipple was located so this one is what, 45 degrees off or so

Have one car close to the time period discussed in this thread so far. Unrestored with no panel replacement,  it had the bracket and it was built at Dearborn on April 2

Also listed in this auction earlier this year

https://www.saac.com/forum/index.php?topic=26750.msg196716#msg196716

The one Jeff posted may have been used however it is a later version as I have not come across it before on a 69/70 Shelby but given the Autolite trademark it was probably a later 69 or 70 version. ..............

Is this the style/type you usually find on the cars you've seen

Worry not great picture by you can make out the first "NO" and the last of the printing "TED"




The version Pete posted has features of both the non vented ones I posted

Guess if I needed one, I would be checking with the 69 Cougar guys as well as some of the other Ford/mercury products that had the gas filler covered with the rear license plate

OK does anyone have a picture of the non-vented cap?