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Thanks for the feedback Bob,  I always appreciate the brain trust recommendations.  You may not remember our conversation 12/13 years ago about keeping the Forum tips on how to accomplish the difficult stuff, but I followed the recommendation and built a notebook that I add to regularly on the complicated steps on some of the restoration items.  I have only test fitted the gasket for making sure it fits and is snug.  I will remove it and use the windshield sealant after reviewing a dozen or so printouts on how to do it right the first time so there are no water leaks.  Thanks again to everyone on the forum that provides input and tips.  Mark

Getting ready to install the rear glass, so I got it polished up with Unger's Rub Out professional glass polish to remove all the surface hard water stains and residue, and it came out really good.  Test fitted the new gasket, and I'll leave it on the glass for a couple of days to get it stretched out a bit before the install day.  See photos.  Thanks, Mark

Back from vacation...  I checked with Branda, and the switches/bezels are on inter-galactic backorder since 2024.  Looks like I'm going to drill & tap the chrome tapered bezel I have to work on the switch I have.  See post above for photos.
Thanks, Mark

Thanks Bob, I will work on a darker color over the next few weeks.  Family stuff will prevent posts until the end of the month.  In the meantime, I need help on the horn switch.  I am posting a couple photos of the repro switch that I bought from Jim Cowles in 2010, and the chrome special nut I want to use in place of the plastic knurled nut that came with the switch.  I want to drill out the chrome nut/bezel and tap it to the correct pitch of the switch housing, but I can't find anything that matches up to the size and pitch of the switch housing.  The closest I can come up with is 12mm diameter x 1.0 metric pitch on the threads, and I think the thread pitch might even be .80 metric.  Does anyone out in forumland have experience with this type of switch, and can recommend what tap I need to get the chrome nut/bezel to work   By the way, the heater cable cleaned up nicely with Evaporust, and the paint came off the heater box bracket and rivets.   Also, I removed the dimmer switch rubber cover, and got the correct courtesy light switches for the door jambs. Thanks, and I'll be back on the forum by the end of this month.  Mark

Wow, you guys are good...  Thanks for the observations, and compelling me to make the car as right as possible. 
I do have the chrome bezel/nut for the horn switch, but it needs to be tapped to the correct thread pitch for that replacement switch.  It will happen.  I just received the white plastic door jamb switches for the courtesy lights, and will install.  I removed the rubber on the dimmer switch.  I can easily clean up the heater cable and will do so.  I have the door springs, they have been painted body color, and the local body shop that Jeff visited for me years ago will loan me their special door spring compressor tool to install the springs with no damage. The heater support bracket that is black was that way when I got the car, and while detailing the heater box, it was done so nice and evenly that it looked like San Jose painted it.  Yes, I will return it to bare steel and clean up the rivets to a natural finish.  The black boot/green wire has been re-routed and feeds the glove box light.  Today, I did more adhesive texture tests with a 6x6 panel painted low gloss firewall black, added a couple hoses, and simulated heater motor.  I am attaching 3 photos showing the test panel in direct sun, then on the workbench, and finally taped to the firewall with natural lighting.  I notice that the texture is getting very close to what I want ( i did a much larger spray out on cardboard pretending to connect the dots )  and the 3M Multi Surface Max Strength 90 adhesive has dried to a medium to dark gray when looking at the test panel with the human eye.  So, take a look and let me know if the color of the adhesive would be acceptable.  Thanks a million for all the help. Mark   

Oct. 8,2026 Update on #444.  I have been busy trying new tests for firewall " Connect the Dots " adhesive /sealer spray, and will have a post in the next day or two with results.  While I wait for test materials to dry and do the next step, I have been working on building out the dash components.  Here's where I am as of this afternoon, and it's going well so far.  Check out the photos and let me know if you have any suggestions.  Thanks, Mark

Thanks Jeff, I appreciate the details for the overall discussion.  In the SoCal desert area where I am, the can of  3M spray adhesive ( headliner contact type of adhesive ) is dry to the touch in about 2 days.  It dries to a clear or mostly clear look.   
   Are you thinking I might use just the adhesive on the painted firewall to replicate the OEM San Jose look ?  And then let it dry to a nearly clear look and just call it a day ?     Thanks, Mark

Update 10/5/26 on firewall sealer project.  Test # 10 in 3 photos.  The can of Duplicolor undercoat/sealer was in the freezer for 30 minutes to reduce internal pressure.  I used the cold sealer can to spray some texture with the cangun1.com trigger at 6-8" distance in a fairly quick " connect the dot " pattern.  After that dried, I used the 3M adhesive spray on the Low setting to go over the sealer in a fairly quick " c t d " pattern from a distance of approx 10".  Finally, after that dried, I used the Eastwood Underhood Black Low Gloss paint ( 2 coats ) to cover it all up.  Turned out pretty good, but I wanted a bit more spidery look to the texture.  Test 11 is almost done.  Stay tuned. Mark

Thanks Bob,  I went back to test 7 that had black undercoat/sealer first, then oversprayed with 3M adhesive.  This morning, based on your advice, I looked at that again, and decided to spray #7 with some black Low Gloss from Eastwood and it looks better than I expected.  I am posting a photo of #7, and building more test panels to do a more complete test with 1. black sealer, 2. 3M adhesive, and 3. Eastwood's Low Gloss Underhood Black.    We'll see how the new tests turn out before I go buy a spray gun and more products to get closer to OEM.  Mark

Many thanks to SG66 and Bob Gaines for their suggestions.  I put the can of Duplicolor undercoat in the refrigerator overnight, and it really helped reduce the in-can pressure to make the application with the "cangun1" trigger much easier to control.  So, I made up test 8 & 9 to see how Bob's suggestion works, and you can see from the photos that the 3M General Trim Adhesive sprays out in a spidery web type of pattern.  I sprayed 8 & 9 with 3M, and after an hour, I then sprayed 9 with the 36 degree can of undercoating in a connect the dot type of trail.  9 turned out pretty good, but the splatter from the black undercoat mostly masks the spider web look of the 3M adhesive.  I think I will wait overnight for 8 to dry completely, and try some black semi-gloss paint over the adhesive and see how it looks. Any other suggestions from the forum ?  Mark

Well, after several more tests, I think # 5 looks pretty good to replicate the Ford firewall sealer.  It's harder than it looks, and it seems to work the best with very low pressure from the can trigger gun mentioned above in my prior post.    With very low pressure on the trigger, and about 8" away from the test cardboard, and moving faster than I thought was necessary, you end up with the splatter spread out, and minimal actual sealing of the various nuts, firewall pins, wiring, and master cylinder mount.  So I guess the Ford tech that applied the sealer, wasn't too concerned with thorough sealing of every firewall penetration.  What do you guys think of the tests ?  Thanks, Mark

Thanks Charles and Jeff,  as always, the pros provide the examples for us to follow.  I will use the photos as a guideline, and play with distance, pressure, and speed to get a wider and maybe spidery look on my test cardboard before application on the firewall.   And yes, I did apply the sealant on the firewall/innerfender junction as you advised and made sure it only went part way down as your photo shows.  Thanks a million,  Mark

Oct. 1 2026 Firewall sealer/sound-deadener spray sample.  Using the spray can with straw and spray-handle from cangun1.com I was able to vary the pressure of the product coming out of the straw.  The photos show a light pressure on the trigger on the 2 simulated heater screws on the far left, then moderate pressure connecting the other screws and simulated heater hoses, and finally light pressure crossing the up arrow to the final 2 screws on the right.  Overall, I think this method will replicate the factory spray process pretty well.  Does any of the brain trust on the forum have a better recommendation for this process ?  Thanks, Mark 

Sept 25, 2026 update and photos.  Lots more work on the details on both sides of the firewall. The photos show the heater motor and hoses, as well as the steering column, throttle, choke cable, and pedal assembly.  The heater box turned out nice, and the tip to sandblast the shiny black plastic defroster plenum really helped the plenum look gray and textured.  My wife and I learned how to install a headliner thanks to the forum tips, and a couple of youtube videos, and after a couple days of prep to put in all the screws for rearview mirror, visors, coathooks, and rear upper trip panel, and lots of masking we got started.  A zillion pieces of cut up windlace combined with the 3M professional strength ( green label ) glue, it all turned out great. Tight, no wrinkles, and where the rear upper trim panel over the vents meets the metal crossbody trim, that small bit of loose headliner tightens right up.  I have to say thanks to the guys on the forum for all the tips, and to Brant Halterman for the phone calls and encouragment.  The progress continues with ECS Autoglass preparing my correctly etched new windshield that should be here in a couple weeks, and then the rear glass and windshield install.  More soon, Mark 

I spoke to White Post Restorations, and they are doing a show quality rebuild that includes all the normal bead blasting, sleeving, detailing of the brass fittings.and in the end a semi-gloss baked on enamel black paint.  Should be awesome, and i'll be careful with the braker fluid.  Mark