SFM5s444 restoration is continuing

[doublemyv]

Just a follow up on the headliner issue.  The car has had all the glass removed prior to bodywork and paint some time ago, and never reinstalled.  I knew that the headliner install was done with the glass out, so that's how I have left it so far.  Mark

[PaulD]

Really enjoying following the restoration. Just a data point 5S426 was received 5/17/65 according to the registry and has an unrestored interior with coat hooks.You cannot view this attachment.

[sbowers]

Mark, I am sorry for you loss.

[doublemyv]

As some of you read the history of 5s444, it warms my heart that the compassion from the forum members comes to the surface. After all, this hobby is as much about the people that are the caretakers of these vehicles, as the vehicles themselves.  I appreciate all the input, and look forward to the day when # 444 is on the road again.  Mark

[doublemyv]

Hi guys, it's April 7, 2026 and the progress on 5s444 continues.  I need help/advice/diagram for the wiring to the Shelby tach in the dash pod.  I tried the search function, but not much help.  I have a basic understanding, but want to get it right the first time.   I will add the 2A inline fuse to the wire from the coil to the tach, but need help understanding where the other wires were added, or spliced into a harness.  Anyone with a diagram, or photos ?  Thanks, Mark

[Bob Gaines]

Hi guys, it's April 7, 2026 and the progress on 5s444 continues.  I need help/advice/diagram for the wiring to the Shelby tach in the dash pod.  I tried the search function, but not much help.  I have a basic understanding, but want to get it right the first time.  I will add the 2A inline fuse to the wire from the coil to the tach, but need help understanding where the other wires were added, or spliced into a harness.  Anyone with a diagram, or photos ?  Thanks, Mark

Here is what came with the tach and oil pressure gauge when you bought it from Shelby American.

[doublemyv]

Thanks Bob,  That's a big help, and should suffice.  I'll study my repro harness that I got from Pete Disher and move forward.  More questions to come I'm sure.  Mark

[doublemyv]

Hi Guys, it's Sept 2026, and the restoration of 5s444 continues. 
 All the wiring is in the car, and hooked up to everything except the instrument cluster that I have left out to get my hands in there to help bolt up the wiper motor, fresh air vent on the driver side, and eventually the pedal assembly.  Lately, I have been working on the heater box, and I am ready to finish the reassembly and install in the firewall.  I have a couple of questions for the brain trust on the forum, and the first is:  What procedure to bench test the blower motor for the heater fan ?  Second is: On the heater fan, there is an embossed name Vernco Corp, and I'm wondering is this the OEM supplier for '65 ?  You will notice in the photos, that the blower motor is stamped with the engineering number and date, so I think the fan is original.  Thanks for the help, Mark

[Bob Gaines]

Hi Guys, it's Sept 2026, and the restoration of 5s444 continues.
 All the wiring is in the car, and hooked up to everything except the instrument cluster that I have left out to get my hands in there to help bolt up the wiper motor, fresh air vent on the driver side, and eventually the pedal assembly.  Lately, I have been working on the heater box, and I am ready to finish the reassembly and install in the firewall.  I have a couple of questions for the brain trust on the forum, and the first is:  What procedure to bench test the blower motor for the heater fan ?  Second is: On the heater fan, there is an embossed name Vernco Corp, and I'm wondering is this the OEM supplier for '65 ?  You will notice in the photos, that the blower motor is stamped with the engineering number and date, so I think the fan is original.  Thanks for the help, Mark

If the motor drags when you spin the shaft by hand it probably needs replaced or rebuilt. You may be able to extend the life by lubricating it with some penetrating oil. To test apply 12 Volts . Yellow wire is +. If it drags or squeals you need to replace or have it rebuilt. Rebuilding is not for the first timer. I know a guy (not me). Please do not use the plenum in its current condition because it looks terrible. Either find a nice used cardboard original(best) or try a faux finish like sand blasting the black so that it is a rough texture dark gray. I have seen that flocking was done to some that looks reasonable.

[doublemyv]

Hi Bob,  Thanks for the tips.  I just tested the motor, and it spins up nicely, with no unusual sounds, so I think it's good to go.  I have access to a sand blast cabinet, so I will try that on the plenum.  I searched for a good cardboard plenum, and only found unacceptable items.  Here's what my current cardboard plenum looks like.  Mark.

[doublemyv]

Well, when the master gives advice, we follow as best we can.  Thanks Bob, I just sandblasted the heater plenum, and it turned out gray and textured.  Looks pretty good for a plastic replacement part.  What do you think ?    Mark

[Bob Gaines]

I looks much better then shiny black plastic IMO. It looks like you might need a slight touch up on the black bracket and door arm but then you should be good to go.

[doublemyv]

Here's a few more photos of the heater box that is complete with all new foam and gaskets, new brass heater core, new rubber gasket between the fan and motor, and bench tested motor that spins up clean and fast. Correct heater hoses, and tower clamps, and cleaned and detailed resistor to bring the red color back, as well as the white plastic rivets.  Overall, I think it turned out pretty well.  Mark

[doublemyv]

A few more photos with the heater switch control.  Mark

[Bob Gaines]

You probably already know this but put the firewall pad in first before steering box etc. I hope that you were able to aquire a SJ style dimpled firewall pad . The repros are horrendously ugly.