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Well, we just unmasked the car 6/12/25 after spraying the Guardsman Blue on the Lemans stripes and the door stripes.  It all turned out the way I planned.   My goal was to replicate the way 'ol Shel painted the cars at the LA Airport.  We assembled the car complete with the plastic license plate mounting screw receptacles on each end, measured about 1000 times, laid out miles of tape, removed miles of tape and re-laid tape to what looked right even if it didn't measure exactly right to the 1/16", and painted to have the stripes, and various oversprays on to weatherstripping, inside the hood scoop, behind the bumpers/stone guard/grill support, etc. etc. etc.  It all came out as a correct/imperfect replica of the way the stripes were done in 1965 down to the hard edge of the stripes on top of the wimbledon white, and nothing is buried in layers of clear coat that could be cut & buffed to a glass finish.  We will let this cure, and do a light cleanup of the whole car in the next 30 days at the body shop, and then proceed on the rest of the build.   Finally, there's light at the end of the tunnel on this restoration.  Mark

Moderator: This thread got in the 1966 forum instead of the 1965 Forum, so if possible, could you move this thread to the correct place for 1965 posts ?
      Thanks Brant,  I appreciate the specifics on the wheel and tire size, and that some of the cars are not the same in the side to side wheel openings.   I had not considered that the Ford fenders could be different, and I guess the quality control of stampings in the 1960s might not have been as good as it is today.    Since both fenders are flat flange Ford fenders, I had assumed that they would be identical.  Maybe not.  As for the struts, I will double check the strut frame mounts again, the strut lengths, and loosen the bolts on the LCAs to see if I have any wiggle room to move the driver side rearward slightly.   When this car was on the frame machine at the body shop with the laser data tools clamped to the pinch weld in four places, we made sure the car was squared up to the correct OEM specs, so at least that variable has been eliminated.    I'll work on more double checks, more accurate wheelbase measurements, and continue with the restoration to see where I end up with centering the wheel in the opening.  Thanks for the advice so far, and I'm sure more questions are coming.  Here's a few photos of my progress so far.   Mark

Thanks everyone, great advice from all the experts.  When Jeff Speegle saw this car prior to paint, he was invaluable with the details of sound deadener, red oxide, black, Wimbledon White, oversprays in certain areas, and much more.
   I realize that you are all correct to wait, but since the car's exterior is built, gapped, and my contact at the bodyshop that does the painting for me is ready to retire, I'm compelled to get the side & Lemans stripes done by this shop sooner than later.
   I intend to pay special attention to Jeff's guidance on the oversprays and details, and not attempt to over restore the car.  Check out the photos of the progress so far and let me know your thoughts. Thanks, Mark

Thanks guys,  After much research, I think we have the definitive answer, and the diagrams in the 1997 Shelby American World Registry were helpful.    I did notice that the diagram in the later registry had the error in showing the front of the car twice.   So, here's my next question:  How much weight (lead shot ankle weight bags)
should I add to the inside of each door to simulate the completed door assembly weight ?    The window regulator, and glass, windwing, handles, and door card probably weigh more than I think.  Maybe 15 pounds Anyone have a recommendation ?    I can add that weight so that the side stripes are consistent from the front fender, through the bottom of the door, and onto the bottom of the rear quarter panel.  Thanks, Mark 

Well, thanks for the comments & suggestions.   The Shelby drop mounting holes for the UCAs measure out to the same dimension driver side to passenger side.   The same number of shims are installed on both bolts of the upper control arms on both sides of the car, and the pivot shaft of the UCAs is centered in the UCA side to side.  The car was dimensionally correct on a frame machine at the body shop using a 4 wheel laser alignment setup, so there is no crash damage, or diamond shape to the car.  All door gaps are consistent with OEM specs.  The front fenders are mounted correctly, and the trailing edges of the fenders have similar gaps to the front of each door, and align nicely with the cowl, hood, and core support.    At this point, I will have the alignment checked for camber, and negative caster, and use shims to get the negative caster accurate, and push the driver side wheel as far back as practical.   Thanks, Mark

Hi All,   5s444 is finally ready to go to the paint shop for the Lemans stripes and the side stripes.  I have found in the 2019 edition of the 1965 registry the diagram on page 20 showing how the stripes taper.  However, the diagram is not as clear as I would like.  Is there a better diagram on the Forum, or at the SAAC website somewhere as I have searched and couldn't find any diagram.    Since the page 20 diagram is pretty clear on the overhead sketch, my questions are about the dimensions on the lower grill support, stone guard, and valance...  As well as the rear taillight panel and valance.    Any help with a better diagram or specifics would be appreciated, as I want to get this right the first time.  Thanks, and with my recent retirement, this project is well underway.  Mark

SFM5s444 is under reassembly now, and the front tire is too far forward.  I have searched and read all the old posts about UCA, shims, caster, and didn't find any definitive answer to center the wheel. Attached are the 2 front wheels, and there is a noticeable difference.  Driver side needs to go rearward about 1 and 1/4 inch to be centered.   I have checked the inner shaft in the UCA and measured the distance from the bolts to the edge of the bushing, and the inner shaft is already centered.  Should I remove the UCA, and adjust the inner shaft to move the control arm rearward on the shaft ?  Will removing a couple of shims from the rear bolt on the Upper Control Arm be a fix, or is there something else ?   Thanks for the tribal knowledge.  Mark

I realize this is an old post, but I wanted to share photos of 5s444 that was sold at Warren Anderson Ford in Riverside, CA in Nov. 1965.  The original black plate is RRW833.  Currently (4/2025 ) the car is finally being reassembled, and more photos will follow. Mark

Thanks for the post on the NOS PCV valves.   Is the C5zz you listed the recommended part for a '65 GT350 with the stock motor/S1MS manifold and the 715 carb ?   Thanks, Mark

I haven't posted in a while, and I am unable to find a way to attach photos to a new post.  What's the new process to add photos?
 
Thanks, Mark

Wow, I never saw that story before.  Read it with a little imagination, and you will tear up like I did.  Bravo.
Mark

More photos of control arm support struts.   By the way, ignore the photo showing the inside of my Shoei helmet with the broken sunvisor actuator, that was an error on my part.   Mark

During my restoration of SFM5s444, I came across a post from another member that had a machine shop make him some very cool control arm support struts.   Clearly over the top in design, engineering, machining, and assembly, and even personalized with the selling dealer's name engraved.    This was in November of 2018, and since I have some tribal knowledge and appreciation of how machine shops produce parts, I decided to ask for a set to be made for my car.     I will post photos of the completed parts that have been supporting # 444 for several years now on a 2 post lift.   Mark

Ogden Chrome does the show chrome for the Kindig it Design shop in Salt Lake City, Utah.  Check out ogdenchrome.com.
Mark

Here in the SoCal desert area, we have the same rodent problem.   After my 2019 Ford Transit 250 Van had a $ 2,000 repair for a sub-harness to the knock sensors under the intake, I bought the Mouse Blocker Pro 12v edition.  I used pop rivets to mount the small unit ( about the size of a pack of cigarettes ) to the top of the fuse box inside the engine compartment.   It is designed to emit various high frequency noises, and flash small LED lights randomly.    It is ON anytime the engine if OFF.   The unit has technology that will turn it off anytime the battery voltage drops below 12v.    When the engine is on, and the unit senses voltage of 13.7 or more, the unit is OFF.      The Mouse Blocker Pro was installed 2 1/2 years ago.  Since then, no rodent damage.   I am not affiliated in any way with the Mouse Blocker product, just a Shelby owner with a Van that is parked outside for the last 5 years.   Mark