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There were multiple suppliers so some variation over the "year".

Are there some part numbers molded into them, look just inside the front opening or look in the rear opening - note the one image below is of a lower scoop but look in the same area of the front opening of the upper.


The studs in the photos you posted look to have been "repaired or have added material to hold the studs.  Do you see any fiberglass weave or matt?  Hard to see any in your photo of the backs.

I think the part number should be these:
1967 brake scoop RH (Upper) S7MS-63280B62-A
1967 brake scoop LH (Upper) S7MS-63280B63-A

On hold with a provider, killing time and did some slight adjustments and clean-up on Pete's two images...

[So the car we just finished is what I built to complete in the highest level possible.]

Sorry, my question was vague.  So the car we just finished is what I built to complete in the highest level possible.  I used only NOS parts.  After the build I decided not to fire the engine hoping not to discolor the exhaust or anything thing else.  Does Div1 permit it to be non-running or do I have to start it?

Highest level possible - in SAAC or MCA?  there are some differences as SAAC cars must function as a car was intended.

Also, to expand on what Pete posted, In SAAC DIV I and DIV II the engine will have to start/run AND engage gears to show the transmission/diff function too.

[SAAC Concours Judging Guidelines]

There is a page on the SAAC Concours Judging Guidelines Section that covers this, but you have to click on the displayed page to open the full 5 page document, here is the link...

https://www.saac.com/forum/index.php?topic=23177.0

Below is the Divisions & Classes portion of the text which is on pages 2 and 3, hope this helps...


DIVISIONS AND CLASSES
Divisions: There are four Concours Divisions to be judged against a factory/stock qualifying standard of
approximately 2/3 Authenticity and 1/3 Workmanship.

● Division I: This class is provided for the stock/original restored car, equipped as it came from the
factory, with original or NOS parts.
o All finishes as original (bare steel, plated parts)
o Parts should be period/date correct including engineering numbers, date codes
o Exterior paint should be single stage with the goal of achieving original appearance

● Division II: This class is provided for the stock/original restored car, equipped as it came from the
factory, allowing a wider latitude of acceptable parts.
o All finishes as original (finishes may be replicated as long as parts attain original appearance)
o Parts may be original or reproductions (high quality/authentic reproduction parts accepted for
full points, poor quality reproduction parts may be deducted for)
o Exterior paint - single stage or other paint systems with the goal of achieving original appearance

● Division III: This class is provided for Competition cars, equipped as it came from the factory Shelby
American, specific period builder or as prepared for competition.
o All finishes as original (finishes may be replicated as long as parts attain original appearance)
o Parts may be original or reproductions (high quality/authentic reproduction parts accepted for
full points, poor quality reproduction parts may be deducted for)
o Exterior paint - single stage or other paint systems with the goal of achieving original appearance
o Only period correct modifications accepted according to documentation

● Survivor: This class is provided for original, unrestored cars, equipped as it came from the factory, with
original parts.
o All finishes as original (bare steel, plated parts)
o Parts should be period/date correct including engineering numbers, date codes
o Exterior paint should be single stage with the goal of achieving original appearance
o Reasonable wear acceptable with no deductions

Classes (Division I/II): Class entries will be limited to six (6) cars, on a first-come, first-served basis, to avoid an excessive load on the volunteer judges' time.

See attached a couple types of fiberglass materials you can cut and use.  The cloth in the lower left corner is like the material in areas in the red highlighted areas on the underside of your deck lid.

Also, a metal frame hood that got some similar work around the perimeter.

I'm sure others can chime-in as well.

Here is the .heic photo from above saved as a .jpg  for those that can't view the .heic file type.

A common problem on the steel framed deck lids and hoods.

Note the "cloth: woven fiberglass in the exposed interior segments, can use cut strips of the same/similar around the perimeter after the rust is removed/stopped-treated/repairs are made. one solution that I did on the car I had.

The original Mag Stars I had the hole in the wheel for the valve stem was a larger than the size on modern wheels, a new valve stem fell through the hole, they had to use what they referred to as "truck valves", this was in 1994.

I doubt the repro or re-rimed wheels have that issue.

Just for reference, attached is a Shelby promotional photo with a close-up of the wheel showing the length of the valve stem.

https://www.kikoauctions.com/auctions/17423

Build date on the door tag is 03A. I don't see any holes in the apron. Looks like it may have been replaced.

Door tags were to be removed on Shelby's, although some did "slip through".  Do you have a Marti report - is that where you're referencing the door tag info?  If you have a Marti report what is the San Jose build date?

Yes, if the panel was replaced or "repaired" (rust, accident) then the features Texas Swede referenced (good things to note ;-) may not be there to reference accurately.

San Jose Build date is needed to provide a likely reply to your question.

This also relates to which style of Windshield washer nozzles were used.

As Bob stated above the date your car was completed at Shelby American would be important and confirm you are referring to the headlights in the upper grill area, and are you referring to inboards or outboards.

There are some plastic clips used by Ford for the stock Ford Mustang portion(s) of the wiring across the lower area of the radiator core support, those are available through AMK or NPD and others sellers.

There were some plastic "clip/holders" used on the inboard cars after a certain time, they were stuck (adhesive) to the sides of the hood support bracket by Shelby workers.  One of the SAAC club members was having those 3D printed but the company "lost" the program and wanted to charge him to make it again so they could fill another order and he refused (I don't blame him, I have a similar story).  I think those are shown in one of the links below.

Here are some links to threads in the '67 Shelby section that might help;
https://www.saac.com/forum/index.php?topic=24554.msg183038#msg183038

https://www.saac.com/forum/index.php?topic=18796.msg149755#msg149755

https://www.saac.com/forum/index.php?topic=16787.msg135829#msg135829

One of the replys from the linked threads above...

What is not Charcoal Metallic:
the headliner, A-pillar pads, the main dash pad, dash knee pad, sun visors, door arm-rest insets, molded plastic seat backs and lower side/front seat trim, upper rear metal vent and slide units, roll bar cover, lower front kick panels, carpet and fasteners which are chrome plated.

Every thing else is charcoal black metallic, with some flattener to reduce the sheen.

Partial list, I'm sure I'll omit something but others will chime-in:

Two Metal Trim strips at base of windshield on top of dash pad

The metal portion of the dash, ash tray front surface, glove box front surface

Steering column cover, U-shaped bracket that holds the steering column to the underside of the dash

On the doors, the Textured metal surface and front, rear and lower edge of doors (gray stops BEFORE the rubber seal)

Two large metal roof panels at the top of the rear glass above the roll-bar,

Rear lower and upper large side panels and the trims strips that cover the joint all around the back, the upper and lower rear corners, upper panel above the trap door, the trap door - front and back and the hinges (there were two versions of the trim strip at the top of the trap door - early has hidden studs on the back of the trim strip - later has exposed chrome screws), most cars have the later rear seat latch stamped-metal cover plates which also get the Charcoal Gray Metallic,

One section of the fold-down rear seat that is curved-metal and textured - the one not covered with carpet.

A look at this thread might help too...

https://www.saac.com/forum/index.php?topic=13940.msg115463#msg115463

https://www.amkproducts.com/i-kits/ford-individual-fastener-kits/?year_=1967&model=Mustang&category=Body

Hope he knew how much he was appreciated.  Helped a lot of car owners!