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No noise!

In the new gasket kit, there is a metal washer that I'm not sure what it is for. Can you advise?

I took the switch out and the gasket was junk, so I'm putting the new composite gasket into the switch housing. Inside the pump there is a rubber             
gasket / O-ring where the switch fits into the pump. Looks good but no new gasket or O-ring in the rebuild kit. Is this simply a centering isolator for the switch to pump?

I guess I'm going to install the new top cover composite gasket and operate the switch a few times by hand. Maybe not a good contact because of corrosion from setting too long? Any other suggestions?

Thank you.

Don
gt350bp

Bob,

Going to check that today. Will advise, as I understand the switch is obsolete and hard to find. My pump was supposed to be rebuilt years ago and sat on a shelf.

Don
gt350bp

Looking for someone with experience in Central Florida to rebuild a SW 240A electric fuel pump with gaskets suitable for 93 octane 10% ethanol pump gas.
I have the gaskets, but they did not come with any instructions. Any help will be appreciated. Would like someone local so I can watch and learn if all possible.

Don
gt350bp

I'd suggest you consider a new modern tach as I found my original tach was lagging when revving. I had Mike at Orlando Mustang install a new tachometer in my gauge cluster when I sent the bezel out to be restored. The new tach works like a charm. One of the best upgrades and I stored my original tach for the next guy.

While the cluster is out, upgrade the flasher boxes and rear taillight bulbs to LED's if you plan to drive the car.

Don
gt350bp

Happy New Year to all!

Looking for step by step instructions for 07 to 09 GT 500 front bumper cover removal. Have not been able to locate anything specific to the 07-09 GT 500's.
Will be doing a restoration to the front clip as my car is a daily driver and did the I-4 shuffle for almost two years from Daytona to Orlando.

Any insight or information out of a shop manual will be appreciated. Do not want to take any chances of breaking any clips or hidden pieces.

Thank you.

Don
gt350bp

The balancer I used was the Ford Racing M-6316-C351. Make sure you check with your engine builder on the stroker kit balance requirements.

Don
gt350bp

Exactly! Don't depend on the rubber caps for the seal.

Don
gt350bp

The one picture of the fully degreed balancer was a real deal balancer that I was going to use. The Ford Racing balancer is what I ended up using on my replica, as the fully degreed balancer went on an original car. I painted the Ford Racing balancer black and felt that option was better for my 327 stroker.

The rubber plugs for the aluminum water pump came from a local auto parts store. They are decorative, as the aluminum pump was tapped for plugs and sealed. Did not want to depend on the rubber plugs.

Don
gt350bp

That's what the 69 Boss T/A cars used with the oil filler tube opening sealed with a plug.

Scott, love your car and engine detail.

Don
gt350bp

All I'm trying to convey is that Edelbrock advertises a 65 to 67 Hi-Po water pump for the early timing cover. They do not look correct for an R-Model replica, but they work better than the aluminum Ford pumps especially in warm climate.

I live in Central Florida and my replica runs cool, as the extra capacity Aviad oil pan, oil cooler and larger Galaxie radiator with larger radiator opening and front valance all help to minimize the engine heat. If I was going to be doing more open track and racing, I would change back to the Edelbrock water pump. The early timing cover with Ford Racing balancer and Ford aluminum water pump IMO makes a nice combination for a replica.

FYI, my stroker engine was assembled by Scott (pbf777 on this forum) and it runs and look good for my purposes.

Don
gt350bp

Photos of the Edelbrock 65 to 67 Hi-po water pump I used prior to changing to the aluminum Ford pump.

Don
gt350bp

Check the Edelbrock 8842 for 65 to 67 289 Hi-Po. Works with early timing cover. Does not look like the Ford aluminum pump but moves much more water. My engine with the Ford pump runs about 10 degrees hotter.

Don
gt350bp

Edelbrock used to advertise an early 65 to 67 Hi-Po pump that worked with the early timing cover Not sure of the part #, but it works better than the aluminum Ford pumps.

I bought a correct oil cooler for a friends R-Model replica about a year ago from Craig Conley. Not sure if he has any more or not. Might want to contact him. Good luck.

Don
gt350bp

I'd suggest the Ford Racing balancer and 65 timing cover. The Ford Racing balancer is similar to the Hi-Po balancer in thickness and diameter, so a quick glance will look like a fully degreed R-Model balancer when painted black. The 65-timing cover will take a little bit of grinding for clearance when using the Ford Racing balancer. I also used the 65-aluminum water pump with the heater provisions tapped for plugs and used dummy rubber caps to look like the R-model. The 65-aluminum pump works OK, but I also used an Edelbrock water pump for the 65 to 67 HiPo and they run significantly cooler.

I'd suggest spending the money on something else for your replica than an old original fully degreed balancer. Perhaps a Fred Ballard button top fuel pump or a
SW 240A electric pump. Just my opinion.

Don
gt350bp

Update on the ECS Carlite script dated coded windshield i ordered. Installed it Thursday and only difference from the original is the blue shade band and the thickness. Original windshield is 1/4" thick and new windshields are 3/16". I believe the windshield used are made in Thailand per the code that is hidden by the gasket. No distortion like some of the Chinese made windshields. Overall happy with the product.

Don
gt350bp