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Various colors.  Size is 3' x 5' with brass rings on all four corners for wall mounting. $19.95 each plus $8.00 flat rate for shipping. Five flags per color available.  PM or contact: Richardelsliger@comcast.net

Has anyone else noticed a proverbial graveyard of car washes in their area since Covid?  I count at least three, one of them a large upscale one.  Eerie. I should get photos and post.

He sure isn't into cars like me. At his age I would have poured over this car. The ride ended and he just walked away. I have to elicit commentary about the Shelby.  He also added 6 pounds since he arrived July 1st from Germany. He needs to shed some weight. ASAP But he also grew half an inch since here. Seems unreal.

I've driven both and would have to say that the Boss 302 would be triumphant in any race against the Challenger.

Why not?  Random act of kindness and the car wanted and needed much attention.

I never understood the surrounding of a car with detritus and piling up cardboard, newspapers and buckets over the bodywork.  The thing sounded ghastly on startup.  I wonder what efforts they made to drain the gas tank and prime the engine beforehand.  Seemingly none.

A cautionary tale. Your experience most likely will be entirely different

He's ninety-six now and barely goes outside.  I was able to get him to go for a brief drive.  He enjoyed the rumble of the engine thoroughly.

When my friend moved over the coil to the correct side of the engine, the oil dipstick tube was affected and came out of its foundation.  The tube and stick were chrome bling from my father ordering this stuff while the car was in Canada.  He is about the bling, me not.  Today, the shop did an epoxy glue of the tube back into the timing cover but that to me is a short term fix.  The engine is a late model 302 circa 1986.  Wondering if I should go with an original 66 tube and stick or just get an aftermarket.  I am wondering about fitment issues.  The maintenance of my car has finally caught up to me.  The party is over.  But it was a good go while it lasted.  Doing these fixes is a labor of love.

My car is at the shop for a front end alignment after I straightened the steering wheel to align with the twelve o'clock position.  I capitulated and the Mustang shop is doing the Pertronix 12 volt wire.  He found two connections hanging out the firewall, one being for backup lights and the other for parking whatever when it was an automatic.  He did not need to tap off of the ignition switch he said.  I think the guy is reliable and honest.  He actually had tried to talk me out of the alignment saying that the notch in the steering wheel pointed at the ten o'clock shouldn't make much of a difference but I distinctly recall at least one of you saying I better get it fixed.  So I am correcting it.  I decided to do an antifreeze change before I drove over because the weather is calling to 90 degrees today.  I was concerned about a boil over (never happened yet but there are always new experiences that await us, right).  I will figure out the pedal spring myself.  I also had a problem with one of the spark plugs (second one from the back on the passenger side that was always difficult to go in.  This was a pre-existing condition to bringing the car back from Canada and this time I'd had enough.  I am very fastidious in threading plugs into their respective holes so I was not the proximate cause of this current problem.  The plug had a bit of cross threading going in earlier this year so I did not screw it in too tight.  The fear is that the head might be screwed.  I want to find out today so I had him look at it.  Otherwise, the Shelby is fine and liking that coolant change.  Shame on me for leaving it go for ten friggin' years.  It should be done every two years unless one is using the extended use technology.  Even so, the occasional flush can't hurt.  I did not remove the thermostat and run water and flush through the system.  I did a quick job.  The coolant that came out was very clean incidentally.  Strangely enough, the coolant leak around the timing cover seems to have gone with the replacement coolant and I didn't even tighten the bolts on the thermostat housing. Anyway, everyone have a great motoring day!  All of your comments and opinions are greatly appreciated.

I spoke to Mustang Restorations in East Dundee about getting my steering wheel notch straight and a new alignment which is going to happen this coming week.  I also happened to ask if they could install the secondary clutch spring that goes under the dash and he told me it is a day's work.  A total nightmare to do.  That the steering column needs to be dropped and the steering box removed to get the pedal down far enough to get the plastic half moon grommets on and the spring attached.  He said one guy did it himself only by cutting a hole in the floor to get that clutch pedal down far enough so he could fit the spring on.  The hole was rewelded shut after the procedure. That is a no starter for me.  Mustang Restorations said the problem is that the pedal needs to go down an inch or so further beyond the bottom of the floor to get the spring on.  Does anyone have experience putting the secondary spring on without so much of the drama?  I considered doing it myself but the arduous description is a disincentive.

This song sounds like something right out of the archives of the original Layne Staley of Alice in Chains but no, it's a young guy with a voice that sounds like a reincarnation of Staley.  The song is Psychosis by the band Skorned.  They came out of Braidwood, Illinois but disbanded quite some time ago.

I had a problem in paradise with the Shelby.  Once again, when the engine warms up and heads toward hot, it can cut off and the revs die, then I coast to a viable spot to pull over.  When the engine cools down it starts up again.  The second to last time that happened, I replaced the module inside the Pertronix distributor.  I just finished up again replacing the module today and also replaced the coil that appeared to have some corrosion inside it. The distributor is now on its third module.  The technique for installing the module is reminiscent of my 89 Saleen Mustang that I owned a while ago but sold.  It would quit anywhere and at any speed without warning.  I think there was a TSB on the problem but never elevated to the level of a recall.  The TFI (thick film ignition) module slapped on the side of the distributor on the 89 Mustangs can go bad and then the new replacement needs some dielectric grease to help it work before it is bolted on.  It also had a stator in it.  (Not sure if dual point ignition has a stator but I will look it up.)  The Pertronix requires the same thing.  Dielectric grease then bolt the little thing down inside the distributor as opposed to the side as in the late 80s application, and button up the distributor once you put the rotor back on.  I did some research on YouTube regarding Pertronix issues and the comments sections were replete with commentary about how their engines would cut out while driving.  Same problem I had.  Seems to be gone now.  I fiddled with the distributor and turned it clockwise until it fired up then locked it down.  I have not thrown a timing gun on it but seems okay for the time being.  The consensus with a number of Pertronix guys was that they were done with Pertronix and went back to points.  I think I may be reaching a similar boiling "point."  I understand that Ford distributors that would be period correct are as rare as they are expensive.  Neither Autolite nor Motorcraft would be correct.  But then again, the engine is an 86 302 roller rocker engine donated to the car by my father.  It apparently came out of a drag car.  Runs pretty strong.  Go back to a dual points setup or deal with Petronix issues?  Am I exchanging one set of problems for a different set?  Which set of problems is more tolerable?  I hate driving with the sword of Damocles hanging over me that the engine could quit at any moment no matter where or when.  I understand points need tweaking or replacement every 5,000 miles but they can be serviced at the side of the road if they go bad.  Are points as risky while driving?  Is there some advance notice or inspection that can preempt such issues as quitting?

I bought an under air vent that had no holes for two things that go on it one being what my buddy said is an attachment for the wiring harness and the second one for a turn signal fuse.  The vent hole has a plastic grill.  I found another vent that has no plastic grill and also has the attachment points.  It has a lid that looks like it was partly opened by a can opener instead of a plastic grill.  Is the third one the real one?  I am suspecting the one I got was an old aftermarket clone.

I couldn't even write this stuff.

The auto manufacturers are compromised. Keep your old cars gentlemen. And save up on spare parts. We are in for a rough ride by the global political landscape.

For rest and sleep without the risk of carbon monoxide poisoning.

I thought it highly appropriate if, but for a blip of time, to bolt on 843's original California license plate along with an aftermarket Hi-Performance Motors frame where the car was invoiced.  Drove around the area a bit imagining the Pacific Ocean to my left while headed in a northerly direction on the Pacific One. I can dream a bit.
Damn it I love this car!

Went to install the Hi-Performance Motors license plate frame on the back end of the 66 Hertz (car 843) and noted that they were actually small bolts and not long enough to accommodate both the license plate and the frame.  Any suggestions for bolt or screw length to accommodate the plate and frame?  Which is appropriate for back in the day?