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Topics - deathsled

He's ninety-six now and barely goes outside.  I was able to get him to go for a brief drive.  He enjoyed the rumble of the engine thoroughly.
1966 Shelby GT350/GT350H / Oil dipstick tube
June 12, 2024, 11:03:13 PM
When my friend moved over the coil to the correct side of the engine, the oil dipstick tube was affected and came out of its foundation.  The tube and stick were chrome bling from my father ordering this stuff while the car was in Canada.  He is about the bling, me not.  Today, the shop did an epoxy glue of the tube back into the timing cover but that to me is a short term fix.  The engine is a late model 302 circa 1986.  Wondering if I should go with an original 66 tube and stick or just get an aftermarket.  I am wondering about fitment issues.  The maintenance of my car has finally caught up to me.  The party is over.  But it was a good go while it lasted.  Doing these fixes is a labor of love.
My car is at the shop for a front end alignment after I straightened the steering wheel to align with the twelve o'clock position.  I capitulated and the Mustang shop is doing the Pertronix 12 volt wire.  He found two connections hanging out the firewall, one being for backup lights and the other for parking whatever when it was an automatic.  He did not need to tap off of the ignition switch he said.  I think the guy is reliable and honest.  He actually had tried to talk me out of the alignment saying that the notch in the steering wheel pointed at the ten o'clock shouldn't make much of a difference but I distinctly recall at least one of you saying I better get it fixed.  So I am correcting it.  I decided to do an antifreeze change before I drove over because the weather is calling to 90 degrees today.  I was concerned about a boil over (never happened yet but there are always new experiences that await us, right).  I will figure out the pedal spring myself.  I also had a problem with one of the spark plugs (second one from the back on the passenger side that was always difficult to go in.  This was a pre-existing condition to bringing the car back from Canada and this time I'd had enough.  I am very fastidious in threading plugs into their respective holes so I was not the proximate cause of this current problem.  The plug had a bit of cross threading going in earlier this year so I did not screw it in too tight.  The fear is that the head might be screwed.  I want to find out today so I had him look at it.  Otherwise, the Shelby is fine and liking that coolant change.  Shame on me for leaving it go for ten friggin' years.  It should be done every two years unless one is using the extended use technology.  Even so, the occasional flush can't hurt.  I did not remove the thermostat and run water and flush through the system.  I did a quick job.  The coolant that came out was very clean incidentally.  Strangely enough, the coolant leak around the timing cover seems to have gone with the replacement coolant and I didn't even tighten the bolts on the thermostat housing. Anyway, everyone have a great motoring day!  All of your comments and opinions are greatly appreciated.
I spoke to Mustang Restorations in East Dundee about getting my steering wheel notch straight and a new alignment which is going to happen this coming week.  I also happened to ask if they could install the secondary clutch spring that goes under the dash and he told me it is a day's work.  A total nightmare to do.  That the steering column needs to be dropped and the steering box removed to get the pedal down far enough to get the plastic half moon grommets on and the spring attached.  He said one guy did it himself only by cutting a hole in the floor to get that clutch pedal down far enough so he could fit the spring on.  The hole was rewelded shut after the procedure. That is a no starter for me.  Mustang Restorations said the problem is that the pedal needs to go down an inch or so further beyond the bottom of the floor to get the spring on.  Does anyone have experience putting the secondary spring on without so much of the drama?  I considered doing it myself but the arduous description is a disincentive.
The Lounge / A young Layne Staley Alice in Chains
June 05, 2024, 09:01:21 PM
This song sounds like something right out of the archives of the original Layne Staley of Alice in Chains but no, it's a young guy with a voice that sounds like a reincarnation of Staley.  The song is Psychosis by the band Skorned.  They came out of Braidwood, Illinois but disbanded quite some time ago.
I had a problem in paradise with the Shelby.  Once again, when the engine warms up and heads toward hot, it can cut off and the revs die, then I coast to a viable spot to pull over.  When the engine cools down it starts up again.  The second to last time that happened, I replaced the module inside the Pertronix distributor.  I just finished up again replacing the module today and also replaced the coil that appeared to have some corrosion inside it. The distributor is now on its third module.  The technique for installing the module is reminiscent of my 89 Saleen Mustang that I owned a while ago but sold.  It would quit anywhere and at any speed without warning.  I think there was a TSB on the problem but never elevated to the level of a recall.  The TFI (thick film ignition) module slapped on the side of the distributor on the 89 Mustangs can go bad and then the new replacement needs some dielectric grease to help it work before it is bolted on.  It also had a stator in it.  (Not sure if dual point ignition has a stator but I will look it up.)  The Pertronix requires the same thing.  Dielectric grease then bolt the little thing down inside the distributor as opposed to the side as in the late 80s application, and button up the distributor once you put the rotor back on.  I did some research on YouTube regarding Pertronix issues and the comments sections were replete with commentary about how their engines would cut out while driving.  Same problem I had.  Seems to be gone now.  I fiddled with the distributor and turned it clockwise until it fired up then locked it down.  I have not thrown a timing gun on it but seems okay for the time being.  The consensus with a number of Pertronix guys was that they were done with Pertronix and went back to points.  I think I may be reaching a similar boiling "point."  I understand that Ford distributors that would be period correct are as rare as they are expensive.  Neither Autolite nor Motorcraft would be correct.  But then again, the engine is an 86 302 roller rocker engine donated to the car by my father.  It apparently came out of a drag car.  Runs pretty strong.  Go back to a dual points setup or deal with Petronix issues?  Am I exchanging one set of problems for a different set?  Which set of problems is more tolerable?  I hate driving with the sword of Damocles hanging over me that the engine could quit at any moment no matter where or when.  I understand points need tweaking or replacement every 5,000 miles but they can be serviced at the side of the road if they go bad.  Are points as risky while driving?  Is there some advance notice or inspection that can preempt such issues as quitting?
Concours Talk / Which under air vent is correct?
May 19, 2024, 12:04:49 PM
I bought an under air vent that had no holes for two things that go on it one being what my buddy said is an attachment for the wiring harness and the second one for a turn signal fuse.  The vent hole has a plastic grill.  I found another vent that has no plastic grill and also has the attachment points.  It has a lid that looks like it was partly opened by a can opener instead of a plastic grill.  Is the third one the real one?  I am suspecting the one I got was an old aftermarket clone.
I couldn't even write this stuff.

The auto manufacturers are compromised. Keep your old cars gentlemen. And save up on spare parts. We are in for a rough ride by the global political landscape.
1966 Shelby GT350/GT350H / Shelby exhaust ASMR
May 11, 2024, 11:27:38 PM

For rest and sleep without the risk of carbon monoxide poisoning.
1966 Shelby GT350/GT350H / California dreamin'
May 11, 2024, 07:30:51 PM
I thought it highly appropriate if, but for a blip of time, to bolt on 843's original California license plate along with an aftermarket Hi-Performance Motors frame where the car was invoiced.  Drove around the area a bit imagining the Pacific Ocean to my left while headed in a northerly direction on the Pacific One. I can dream a bit.
Damn it I love this car!
Concours Talk / License plate screws
May 10, 2024, 11:36:49 PM
Went to install the Hi-Performance Motors license plate frame on the back end of the 66 Hertz (car 843) and noted that they were actually small bolts and not long enough to accommodate both the license plate and the frame.  Any suggestions for bolt or screw length to accommodate the plate and frame?  Which is appropriate for back in the day?

Adding that rubberized square patch that sits on the inner fender apron to insulate the metal from the positive battery cable.
Concours Talk / NOS pony keys or?
May 09, 2024, 10:38:40 PM
I found this artifact in my closet of parts with the intent to have one of them cut. I bought a long time ago say at least 10 years from some key shop in Ohio I believe. Not that it matters, but intellectual curiosity drives the question: nos or not? I take it that the rectangular head means ignition key while a key with rounded ends would be for the trunk? (So both are ignition that I have it would seem.)
Looks like Klutt has or had a plan to buy it.
1965 GT350/R-Model / Raydot mirrors
May 08, 2024, 01:26:34 PM
I am looking for advice on a good Raydot style mirror for my dad's 65 non-Shelby fastback.  Is there more than one manufacturer for them?  I am looking for the best replica out there preferably made in the USA or UK.  Thanks for any input.  You guys, all of you, are great.
The Lounge / Uncle Tony's take on Chinese parts
May 08, 2024, 10:55:53 AM

I have to agree with him. We came to them and got exactly what we requested and here is the result. I try to buy American but it is an arduous task.
The Lounge / Uncle Tony's take on modern parts
May 08, 2024, 10:40:30 AM

The problem he had with that electric fuel pump is incredulous. He explains the problem very clearly. It's unbelievable the machinations he had to go through to find a problem that was inherently built into a name brand pump.
1966 Shelby GT350/GT350H / Tri power intake
May 06, 2024, 04:27:04 PM
I might have a bead on an old Ford three-two barrel setup and was wondering if it would add some decent power to the car.  As everyone probably knows by now, my car is a day two car with a 302 roller rocker setup. Edelbrock midrise intake and Holley 650 double pumper currently. (Original Cobra intake in closet with engine).  I believe that the Monte Carlo bar would clear such a setup though it would be a close shave.  I'd rather keep the original bar intact than go for a curve at the center of the bar that defeats the purpose.
1966 Shelby GT350/GT350H / 195 degree thermostat?
May 06, 2024, 04:03:49 PM
I seem to have a small coolant leak.  Could be around the thermostat housing.  While at it I am looking to replace the thermostat and I saw a recommendation of 195 to fix any potential overheating problems.  Thoughts?