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Messages - deathsled

He's ninety-six now and barely goes outside.  I was able to get him to go for a brief drive.  He enjoyed the rumble of the engine thoroughly.
1966 Shelby GT350/GT350H / Oil dipstick tube
June 12, 2024, 11:03:13 PM
When my friend moved over the coil to the correct side of the engine, the oil dipstick tube was affected and came out of its foundation.  The tube and stick were chrome bling from my father ordering this stuff while the car was in Canada.  He is about the bling, me not.  Today, the shop did an epoxy glue of the tube back into the timing cover but that to me is a short term fix.  The engine is a late model 302 circa 1986.  Wondering if I should go with an original 66 tube and stick or just get an aftermarket.  I am wondering about fitment issues.  The maintenance of my car has finally caught up to me.  The party is over.  But it was a good go while it lasted.  Doing these fixes is a labor of love.
Quote from: Bob Gaines on June 12, 2024, 03:00:51 PMI wish there was a shaking of one's head emoji. I would hate to think that this work was representative of the work this shop does. If it is then you should try someone else. We are not talking Mustang expertise work  but common sense workmanship and know how. Obviously he/they do not understand how the pertronix system works. According to the picture the coil now has the newly installed YELLOW (what a poor color choice for the extra wire) power wire along with the Ford resistance wire power. You should only have the new installed yellow wire and the red power wire from the module in the dist connected to the positive side of the coil .No wonder that your tach is acting up.  I suspect that your tach problem will settle down after you disconnect  the extra wire. The now extra wire (Ford resistance wire) that you took off the coil can be wrapped up with electrical tape to the Ford harness for a tidy look. If you still don't understand call me you have my number.     
I was curious why there were three wires rocking the positive terminal of the coil after his work instead of two.  I understand your instructions and will do so in the morning then test drive to see how the tach behaves.  It was a relatively inexpensive excursion to that shop so lesson learned.  I think I will be doing a lot more work on that car myself with input from you SAAC guys where needed (which is much of the time).  Thank you for the clarification!  Have a good evening!  I will be getting on the inner and outer tie rods and sleeves.  Maybe get some nos ones or restored.
Interesting enough with the wire split now the tachometer seems to stop around 1500 and stays there until the engine is off. Maybe the tach isn't getting enough voltage. He was not able to do the alignment because the tie rod sleeves inner and outer are inverted I think is what he said. It was put together backwards somehow. He said it won't affect the operation of the car but something is rubbing that should not when road bumps are encountered. The car is really getting a shakedown. A necessary shakedown.
My car is at the shop for a front end alignment after I straightened the steering wheel to align with the twelve o'clock position.  I capitulated and the Mustang shop is doing the Pertronix 12 volt wire.  He found two connections hanging out the firewall, one being for backup lights and the other for parking whatever when it was an automatic.  He did not need to tap off of the ignition switch he said.  I think the guy is reliable and honest.  He actually had tried to talk me out of the alignment saying that the notch in the steering wheel pointed at the ten o'clock shouldn't make much of a difference but I distinctly recall at least one of you saying I better get it fixed.  So I am correcting it.  I decided to do an antifreeze change before I drove over because the weather is calling to 90 degrees today.  I was concerned about a boil over (never happened yet but there are always new experiences that await us, right).  I will figure out the pedal spring myself.  I also had a problem with one of the spark plugs (second one from the back on the passenger side that was always difficult to go in.  This was a pre-existing condition to bringing the car back from Canada and this time I'd had enough.  I am very fastidious in threading plugs into their respective holes so I was not the proximate cause of this current problem.  The plug had a bit of cross threading going in earlier this year so I did not screw it in too tight.  The fear is that the head might be screwed.  I want to find out today so I had him look at it.  Otherwise, the Shelby is fine and liking that coolant change.  Shame on me for leaving it go for ten friggin' years.  It should be done every two years unless one is using the extended use technology.  Even so, the occasional flush can't hurt.  I did not remove the thermostat and run water and flush through the system.  I did a quick job.  The coolant that came out was very clean incidentally.  Strangely enough, the coolant leak around the timing cover seems to have gone with the replacement coolant and I didn't even tighten the bolts on the thermostat housing. Anyway, everyone have a great motoring day!  All of your comments and opinions are greatly appreciated.
Looks like Emilia Hartford is looking to buy the track. She is quite an automotive influencer. I wish her luck.
Quote from: Coralsnake on June 08, 2024, 07:29:52 AMThere seems to be a consensus that its a big job. I didnt get the impression that the shop didnt want to do the job, just wanted to explain how labor intensive it was.

The story of the floor being cut, was not a suggestion, it was how one person solved the problem.

I dont think anyone else would agree with that on a Shelby

How about you get the original parts instead of the cheap off shore garbage or you will be doing it twice.

I found a redone spring on ebay but isn't the tensile strength gone out of it for being used and so many years old?
I spoke to Mustang Restorations in East Dundee about getting my steering wheel notch straight and a new alignment which is going to happen this coming week.  I also happened to ask if they could install the secondary clutch spring that goes under the dash and he told me it is a day's work.  A total nightmare to do.  That the steering column needs to be dropped and the steering box removed to get the pedal down far enough to get the plastic half moon grommets on and the spring attached.  He said one guy did it himself only by cutting a hole in the floor to get that clutch pedal down far enough so he could fit the spring on.  The hole was rewelded shut after the procedure. That is a no starter for me.  Mustang Restorations said the problem is that the pedal needs to go down an inch or so further beyond the bottom of the floor to get the spring on.  Does anyone have experience putting the secondary spring on without so much of the drama?  I considered doing it myself but the arduous description is a disincentive.
Quote from: FL SAAC on June 07, 2024, 04:04:02 PM
Quote from: deathsled on June 07, 2024, 10:16:16 AMI can visualize a group of environmentalists pooling their resources to buy the track and permanently close it or tear it down because racing emits "harmful greenhouse gases."

And another one bites the dust !

Sung to Queens harmonic beat ....
Of course.  And I don't want to hear any complaints when full bore racecars become street driven because all of the tracks have been banished and wiped out.  Make it make sense someone.
Quote from: J_Speegle on June 07, 2024, 01:03:12 AM
Quote from: deathsled on June 06, 2024, 08:36:20 PMOkay.  It is tough to read.  Could it be from a 68?

Stamping would be easier to rear from the other side of the panel

Yes it could be from any year but the design and style would limit that. Date stamps in sheet metal in the 60's did not include the year in the code typically

It was sold to me as a 66 on ebay.  As long as it fits I am good with it.
I can visualize a group of environmentalists pooling their resources to buy the track and permanently close it or tear it down because racing emits "harmful greenhouse gases."
Okay.  It is tough to read.  Could it be from a 68?
Looks like it has some numbers on the soup lid.
I bought the Campbell's soup vent on eBay. Arrived today. A great early birthday present to myself along with the acquittal of my client today.