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It was mentioned a while ago about what window seals were the best reproduction out there and  Virdinia classic Mustang just got some some rear window seals in stock IIRC. So what are the best out there right now that have no issues when it comes to stainless trim install? Thanks.

Hi Scott, I got an error saying your mailbox is full. Never seen that before.

https://bringatrailer.com/listing/shelby-10-spoke-wheels/?utm_source=Iterable&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=campaign_2648441

. I need numerous parts and some mentioned in my prior wanted ad. Thanks. Gary

https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1967-shelby-mustang-gt500-21/?utm_source=Iterable&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=campaign_2648441

To me EBay has been a joke over the years. I try an "NOS" search say for 1968 Ford or Mustang and it appears I get so much BS postings from signs, generic fasteners  to other makes car parts. Has anyone found a method to limit the SPAM ads as they must be that. Thanks. Gary

https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1966-shelby-mustang-gt350h-4/?utm_source=Iterable&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=campaign_2648441

Has anyone replaced the rubber on the front shocks at the top where the bracket bolts to the shock tower cap? I got the original Autolite shocks for my car and the rubber is cracked up. Thanks. Gary

These 2 pieces came with my 68 Shelby. They appear to be ford engine blue from new and were in a can with a bunch of engine fasteners. The one without the plastic sleeve appears to possibly be broke on the one end. I got both my engine lift hooks for my 428 PI so they are not for that.

So I finally after 2 months had time to take my dash assembly out. Since I never found a 68 build sheet I wasn't aware how "little" they were after they were folded up. First pic I didn't even notice in the car that the build sheet was hiding under the wiring harness. Yeah, I was excited when I got it out and unfolded it to reveal how well it survived over 56 years being there.

A question came up on the red 66 on BaT and what I "think" I remember but it might not be all SA-LA years: did  1965-7 Shelbys leave the SJ plate with door data tags that  were supposed to be removed at SA? There is a data rivet still on the door and if correct probably shouldn't have been painted over but the question of a replaced door came up because of the rivet. Thanks.

Should a car built on March 24 have the bracket under the spare tire for the space savor bottle? Did early cars not have the bracket? If so a transformation time frame for the brackets appearing? Thanks.

Appears to be the same as the another posters  but new tires. Not assy line. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/wheels-8/

OK, I know the finishes on these parts as they pertain to service parts(clear zinc I believe on Zbar components and black paint on mounts). so what were they from the factory for a GT500 428.
Z-bar
Z-bar frame mount
Z-bar engine mount
engine frame mounts
engine engine mounts(bolts to block)
Engine insulators.
is there a correct paint code for the steel wheels?
Tail light panel paint code(have original paint on mine)
Thanks in advance.

anyone good restoring distributors these days?

I'm still looking for the following parts for starters. Jan-Feb  1968 build. Will add to the list as needed. I may have some parts to trade (68-69). Thanks. Gary
header panel
lower valance
air cleaner
Drivers side fastback end cap.
Misc front thin trim moldings(have a few but will buy a complete set)
Interior rear corner moldings.
Smog anti backfire cannister late dec early jan dated.

Anyone have a ballpark what a bare 428 block with a crank and damper on it would weigh? Breakdown even? Block, Crank? Thanks.

I'm looking at this Silver Jade car and where the front side hood bumpers mount has a large rectangular hole on each side. The hole there is usually just big enough for a rubber bumper to squeeze into(see pic of my red car).  So whats up with that. Car sure looks original on both front aprons and I suspect the caulk used is covering the big hole for rubber bumper clearance in the apron? Car built beginning of Feb.

Going through my original ford green backed snake emblems I have 2 styles. One fits my convertible quarter panel perfectly. In the side pic you can see the curvature of the quarter panel where the emblem sits. How do  know they are in the right position? when I bought my car-plus I have pics when it was new-it had the original Shelby emblems on it. I measure the placement of the rectangular "SHELBY" emblem before removing. I know it was never off because tof pics and the original RED paint under it(masked off on a repaint). What I call the convertible snake has  .054 thousands gap in the center of the emblem on a flat surface. The other style which doesn't fit has about a .025 thousands gap in the center. The vert emblem when set on my Mach1 between the emblem studs is slightly open in the center. The flatter one fits real close but not perfect but probably does when stuck on. Second pic shows the top gap of the flatter .025 emblem on a vert quarter. First pic .054 gap snake fits perfectly.

I sent some pics to Dennis Yoo from a spare tilt column I have. I pulled the column out of a 1969 Mach1 in 1980. Put a new service switch from Ford in it. Ran the column in a 69 Mach1 for 4 years and then my Shelby until 1996. everything worked. Pics are how I wired it and the "spare" wires from a 1 switch fits all service part. I hope this helps some others in the future.