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It is an 89 and #154.  It is priced at $39,900.  When I say Short Term, I mean 2 to 5 Years.

Don't look at it from a ROI mindset, instead look at it as a shiny toy that you either want to own, or need to own. Let the next generation worry about it future sale price when you are gone from this plane of existence. Quite frankly, to do otherwise ruins the experience of ownership right from the start.

Seems legit....


https://saltlakecity.craigslist.org/ctd/d/cedar-grove-1968-shelby-mustang-gt500/7928331221.html


Pat

Classic scam, maybe the same folks as the lerning center
VIN used: 8T02S129334

This is a coil spring chassis?

Yes, coil spring front and rear with ERA custom IRS rear (custom ERA spec aluminum housing, outboard brakes vs jag inboard brakes). ERA only does coil spring suspensions, you may be thinking of Contemporary which had both coil spring or torsion bar front suspensions.

Bill

ERA-2080---Factory turn key built in 2002 by ERA. Titled as a 1964 Ford using the ERA VIN, Painted white frost pearl, with deep maroon metallic colored stripe similar to CSX 2173, proper FIA dash w/correct Stewart Warner gauges, switches, Heater/defroster, wipers, convertible top W/side curtains, Correct 15"wood Cobra steering wheel, Leather seats on sliders, E-brake handle cover, door panels, 4 point seat belts, full carpet set, Wind-wings, Sun visors, AC pedals, proper FIA-6 pin knock off wheels with fresh Cooper Cobras, 235/60/15 fronts, 295/50/15 rear, ERA competition rear W/outboard brakes , ERA competition front brakes (12.3 rotors), Front and rear sway bars, Adjustable coil over shocks, Tremec TKO 5spd with hydraulic clutch and blowproof Lakewood bellhousing, ERA spec HD aluminum radiator with aluminum overflow tank, Oil cooler, Front bumperettes, Full rear bumper, Per documents in build binder-351W stroked to 396ci, 9:8:1 comp, SCAT steel stroker crankshaft, Eagle HiPo rods, Keith Black-Hypereutic pistons, canton 8 quart oil pan, Car cover, All docs back to original order from ERA, Fully sorted, needs nothing, 20+ years old and eligible for export to Canada and elsewhere $72,500 downsizing our collection now that there is only one driver. PPI welcomed here in Greenville, SC.
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Is this after the general car show, and if so, will it be on site, or off site from the same?



Bill

If your booster is nice on the outside (no rust pits) you may want to confirm that they are rebuilding what you send and not an exchange where you may get one of lesser quality back.

Thanks, I'll be exceptionally vigilant if the master cylinder does not fix the issue and I need to send the booster out for restoration.


Bill

Thanks guys

Drove my May of 1969 built, 1970 GT 350 today and a block from home the pedal got hard, not quite to floor, but barely able to slow to a stop. Thinking perhaps I might have inadvertently cooked the brakes driving through construction, let the car cool for for three hours and just went out to take a look. Fluids all flushed with fresh DOT 3 2 years ago, master cylinder is full, rear bowl is a bit murky, front is fairly clear, no drips, no leaks either under the car or at all four corners. It's been 20 years since I last had a brake issue on any of my mustangs, now wondering if the master cylinder went out or if the booster did. Feels like no rear brakes at all, with a good bit of pressure needed just to stop the car from rolling, no vacuum leaks detected.

Believing earlier that the master cylinder went out, I proactively ordered a new one from Dead Nuts this afternoon, but what happens if it's the booster?
Being a May of 69 build, it can't be a Midland, can it?
Who is rebuilding or offering a good reproduction of the later production brake boosters these days?

I've prepped 2642 for the 2.5 hour drive up with the top down of course, if the weather holds that is.



Bill

Thanks for the hard work


Bill

This auction has restarted? Bid was $52k now says its $2250 with 14 days to go..??

Pat

Last time I heard of this happening (on a Pantera after Hurricane Sandy, also Co-part), it was due to some bidders not being able to be confirmed (financially). Stop the auction, remove all the bids, restart the auction.

Is it real, if you can touch it, yes.
Drivetrain, seller states "not original to car, but correct for car", what exactly does that mean?

Plenty of reasons right off the bat to create a need to have the car inspected up close and in person, either by yourself, or per a qualified PPI person.


Since you asked of course 

Question 1 could you really buy a body from a Ford dealer?

If you and/or the dealer had the right connection at FoMoCo, yes, a "body in white" could be procured. All that I have seen (drag and race related) did have a VIN associated with the unibody, but no title, just a bill of sale.

https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1967-ford-mustang-444/

🤔

This was recently on facebook marketplace, I sent it to Vern telling him he needed to buy it. Guess someone else got there first.

Phil,

  After speaking with you and Kathy, I knew it was just a matter of time, but not as short a time. Glad he did not suffer further.

Our heartfelt condolences go out to Kathy and the rest of their family and friends.

Bill