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Just a follow up, found the box, had the old, original headlight switch from 1584 in it, grabbed a C9ZZ-11654-A off Ebay, hope it works.

If you could find a NOS original that would be the best option.  I found mine on eBay but that was 10 years ago. 

I'm thinking I have one somewhere, but could not find it yesterday morning before I left, which is why I made the post to start this thread, both to see what else is out there, and confirm the factory part number so I can dig through my countless boxes of small NOS bits and pieces.

Bill

I would suggest that you check out the alternator,  voltage regulator, grounds and then the headlight relay.

All of these suggestions are relevant, thank you, nothing else was in your response. While you meant well, historically, your posts have been off topic, and just plain wrong, you really should refrain from google searching or using A.I. for your responses. Perhaps refrain from responding to my posts and threads would be best.

As a response though, all have been carefully and thoroughly checked, tested, and are all fine,with the cause of my original problem (no dash lights) being found to be a bad (cracked) rheostat in the original Ford headlight switch, which is why I specifically asked about the best headlight switch to replace my current, and substandard, freshly changed unit.

Perhaps someone else has hands on experience and will respond more competently than you did.

Bill

What is the best replacement headlight switch for the 69/70 Shelby on the market today?
Tried a standard (per the advice of a "Shelby expert" I now used to hold in high regard), but the ride home from a movie shoot this evening and the switch overheated after 20 minutes and non LED or Halogen headlights......Flashed on and off like I was undercover and trying to pull someone over     

Assuming a C9ZZ-11654-A (or B) switch would be correct ? ? ?

Anyone make an excellent reproduction that actually works?

Thanks in advance

Bill

Looks like a neat project, can't wait to see the progress.

Regardless of brand (70% of which are made in the same production facilities these days, then relabeled), you'll want a 2K epoxy primer, not an etch primer (good for spot repair, not suggested for overall) followed by a high build primer once bodywork has been accomplished. Welding, use the etch primer followed by a scuff/sanding, then a 2K epoxy primer on top of this. Do your regular bodywork (fillers and such), finish off with a high build primer, then sand again until you feel the panels are as smooth as you want them to be.


Bill

That might not really be an option, as most (not all) SAAC concourse judges also judge the MCA concourse events making the Shelby class a blended combination.

The past 5 or so years, not so much, but it's true that many SAAC and MCA judges have judged with both organizations at some point.  The judging rules are similar, with the main differences being that SAAC points are weighted more towards originality and MCA is divided 50/50 for originality and workmanship/condition/cleanliness... and also, SAAC allows fractional deductions.

Mine will be in the street driven class, does that allow for road grime from the 100+ mile trip down to the show field. I promise to have the correct colored convertible top on by then 

Bill

Among other things.... 😬

Like detailed production marks 

Excellent, now a choice of where you want to have your car judged.

That might not really be an option, as most (not all) SAAC concourse judges also judge the MCA concourse events making the Shelby class a blended combination. Logistics will come in to play for the final verdict.

And the dates in August are---?

I have seen the 26-28th of August being thrown around online

If the above dates are confirmed they match the same venue as the MCA 50th anniversary show. 2 shows in one???

regards

PHILL BERESFORD
MELBOURNE.
AUSTRALIA.

I saw that
https://mustang.org/event/mustang-club-of-america-50th-anniversary/

Mind blowing at what a combined event would be like.

Bill

And the dates in August are---?

I have seen the 26-28th of August being thrown around online

Just a hop, skip, and jump down RT85 

VIN 1205

Thank you

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Last four of VIN?
Price?

Ran across a set of hood escutcheon plate plates and a T-handle supposedly for same. Was told they were used on very early CSX2000 series cars. Uncertain if that statement is factual or not, same goes for the parts and tool attached in the pictures below. Can anyone confirm one way or the other?
Escutcheon plate is roughly 1" x 1"
T-handle tool is 2.25" (a hair bigger than measured) wide by 3.25" long
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Thanks in advance

Bill