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ERA-2080-289 FIA--Factory turn key built in 2002 by ERA with original documentation. Titled as a 1964 Ford using the ERA issued VIN, Painted white frost pearl, with deep maroon metallic colored stripe similar to CSX 2173, proper FIA dash with correct Stewart Warner gauges, switches, Heater/defroster, wipers, convertible top & side curtains, tonneau cover, Correct 15"wood Cobra steering wheel, Leather seats on sliders, Leather E-brake handle cover, Leather door panels, 4 point seat belts, full carpet set, Wind-wings, Sun visors, AC pedals, FIA-6 pin knock off wheels with fresh Cooper Cobras, 235/60/15 fronts, 295/50/15 rear, ERA competition rear W/outboard brakes , ERA competition front brakes (12.3 rotors), custom machined, matching spare rim/tire combo, Front and rear sway bars, Adjustable coil over shocks, Tremec TKO 5spd with hydraulic clutch and blowproof Lakewood bellhousing, ERA spec HD aluminum radiator with aluminum overflow tank, Oil cooler, Front bumperettes, Full rear bumper, Per documents in build binder-351W stroked to 396, 9:8:1 compression, SCAT steel stroker crankshaft, Eagle HiPo rods, Keith Black-Hypereutic pistons, canton 8 quart road race oil pan, Dual hidden power points under dash, Car cover, All documentation back to original order from ERA, fully sorted & exceptionally well maintained, no drips, no leaks, needs nothing but a new owner, 20+ years old and eligible for export to Canada and elsewhere $77,500 Serious inquiries only please. Car is located in Greenville, SC
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What is the best replacement headlight switch for the 69/70 Shelby on the market today?
Tried a standard (per the advice of a "Shelby expert" I now used to hold in high regard), but the ride home from a movie shoot this evening and the switch overheated after 20 minutes and non LED or Halogen headlights......Flashed on and off like I was undercover and trying to pull someone over     

Assuming a C9ZZ-11654-A (or B) switch would be correct ? ? ?

Anyone make an excellent reproduction that actually works?

Thanks in advance

Bill

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Ran across a set of hood escutcheon plate plates and a T-handle supposedly for same. Was told they were used on very early CSX2000 series cars. Uncertain if that statement is factual or not, same goes for the parts and tool attached in the pictures below. Can anyone confirm one way or the other?
Escutcheon plate is roughly 1" x 1"
T-handle tool is 2.25" (a hair bigger than measured) wide by 3.25" long
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Thanks in advance

Bill

NO memes, no pictures, those just belittle in my mind, here, for me at least, just words, they won't make it better, but they will allow me to not keep it balled up inside as tears were shed this morning, as I have every 9/11 since that tragic day:

Watching an abbreviated timeline on TV this early morning, it all comes flooding back, where I was, what I was doing, getting the call of our young child's school being evacuated (overlooked RT80 and next to Picatinny Arsenal). Reaching out to family and friends to make sure they were not in the towers, the anxiety of not being able to reach some of them......The hours going by, the smoke rising up in the distance, the relief as we heard from those we could not get a hold of earlier in the day. Not sleeping for days, running food/water to donation centers across the river from NYC, riveted to the TV 24x7, frustration for not being able to do more, angry for the tragic loss. Again, watching the smoke plumes from our backyard would not let us go, just kept pulling us in, as it has again this morning. Within that tragedy we lost past co-workers (my wife has just left Marsh McClennan, who lost hundreds in the towers, many she knew), neighbors, our kids friends parents.......I remember just now the agony of trying to figure out how I was going to explain to our child that some of his friends parents will never be coming home.


We shall never forget, we will always grieve, we will survive and take our continued retribution from those who planned and executed this horrific event in our modern history.

Was at a wedding in NJ this weekend and had a friend of the family come up and ask me about whether or not the later Shelby products were offered with an automatic transmission. Won't go in to specific details why do to privacy concerns, other than they cannot drive a manual transmission due to physical limitations. If not, are there any companies out there that offer a conversion from manual to automatic?


Thanks in advance


Bill

For years now I've been contemplating replacing the incorrect white convertible top on 2642 with a proper black convertible top. Up until now I've had the mindset if it's not broken, do not mess with it. Well, after playing musical cars yesterday, I've discovered that the rear glass seal has finally let go.

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So now the new dilemma is, can this be properly repaired, or, what will be the best replacement top supplier be?

Any guidance would be greatly appreciated.


Bill

Ran across this one earlier this week, hope you enjoy it.

Bill

Repost in the public access section:

NEWBIE's

1: You cannot include attachments or links within your posts without them being approved by a moderator. This could be minutes, or days, depending on how busy a moderator is with his/her normal day to day schedule (we are not paid, we volunteer). The reason for this is to keep spammers from flooding these sites with commercial type posts for shoes, porn, or get rich quick schemes.

2: Sending multiple PM's asking when a post might be approved does not get the post approved any faster.

3: As a newbie, you sometimes forget to look at the date of the last post in a thread you are interested in. Dates are located above a user name and are in the following format "05-30-2015, 09:04 AM" You click on the reply/respond button and inadvertently resurrect threads that are 5-15 years old. Most with outdated information, or asking for information from a specific end user, who may no longer be on the site, or in a worst case scenario, has passed away.

4: As a newbie, you fail to use the "search" function, thus asking a question that has mostly likely been answered between 1-100+ times. This simple forum tool is beneficial for any and all end users, newbies especially.

5: As a newbie, you should think before you post. You only get one chance to make a first impression, and first impressions on a specialty automotive forum are forever lasting.

6: When starting a new thread, make sure it is in the proper sub forum, also make sure that the title description is on point, not too short, and not too long.

7: When responding to a thread, it is always suggested you use the "quote" option (bottom right hand corner of each post), so all end users know who you are directing your response towards.

8: Be patient for a response, do not make a follow up post 10,20,30,60 minutes after you asked a question at 3am. Not everyone who knows the answer is up or on their computer when you are.

9: Read all instructions before you post, if there is a 50kb size limitation to an attachment, and your attachment size is 10meg, then that is an operator error, and PM's to the moderator or sys admin is not required.

10: Go with the flow, do not try to reinvent the wheel here. Take things slowly, and ease yourself in to the flow of traffic.

Yes, the above really is that simple.

Cleaning out some moving boxes from several moved ago and stumbled across a set of center caps I cannot identify. Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.

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Thanks in advance,

Bill

Originally posted by my friend Brent M. on 12-21-2003

"We must respect each other around here, and many are simply sick of the bickering ..Its BS. People should be able to ask legitimate questions around here without turning into a friggin circus.

What this is doing is taking new folks who have questions that need to be answered and alienating them, as the most sincere intentions some how turn in to a steaming pile of crap, and they are left wondering what they did wrong. STOP! THINK! Then post something that is useful to the group without pushing someone's buttons.

RESPECT, RESPECT, RESPECT, RESPECT. Live it every day here, please. While there are some folks who probably don't care for each other much, we are generally a tight nit group....So many great folks, and we don't need to be pissing in each others cheerios while on line. If you can't find a way to communicate in a respectful manner, keep it to yourself.

Having said that, I know many of us are close enough that we can spar a bit in fun, but you must keep in mind that things are easily taken out of context when written, so be sure you have the relationship you think you do before making jabs at your buddies. Just common sense stuff that seems to elude us lately.

I hope you understand the concern here and do everything you can personally to make this place better every day. This is still the greatest group of people in the world, but we are a huge bunch now, and we need to be mindful of the things that have made this place a success and have won each of us so many friendships over the years.

Thanks for your attention to this, and take care."

This is a thread to track known salvaged, totaled, or lost (IE: stolen)  1969/1970 Shelbys, they could be, salvaged and rebuilt, totaled and rebuilt, or stolen, potentially built again as "air" cars that could be floating around.

Please keep the discussion in this thread about specific cars that are known to SAAC, and the SAAC forum:

We can start with the most recent that I know of, self reported by the owner at that time: 9F03R480135-lost to an unknown fuel, or electrical fire some time in late 2022 or early 2023.

Once again, please only post those that are documented, either from online salvage auctions, insurance databases, or other verified sources so as to not have people playing games for some nefarious reason.

Thanks in advance for getting the ball rolling on this.

Bill

You never know what might end up at the local Cars & Coffee.

Sounded quite healthy when loaded back on it's trailer at the end of the show.
Current owner is here on the forum.

Bill

Having a discussion with long term (some of us dating back to the UUNET and newsgroup days), really good "IT" friends LAST night, the question of online forums, their user base, the trouble with moderating them, and the quest for high post counts by various members came up. These are people with 20+ years of forum moderation under their belts. Our conclusion on post counts was a simple one, those forums that eliminated the actual post counts from their members profiles, seemed to have less conflicts, and less off topic posts that needed to be moderated.

So the question I now pose is as follows:

Should we remove members post counts from the forum?

I'll leave it to the members of the forum to respond with a yes or no, and perhaps, if they would like to share, the reason for their answer.

Thanks for keeping this on topic, and civil.


Bill

In search of 1969/70 Luke Bolton Ford (Plantation, Fl) memorabilia


Serious responses only please.

Bill

In search of 1969/70 Matthews Ford (West Palm Beach, Fl) memorabilia


Serious responses only please.

Bill

In search of a real PM-300 antenna assembly, not a cut down faux/replica PM-300 antenna. Could be a good used/original, as long as the mast and body assembly is original, correct, and working properly. Form and function is the key here, as my current unit appears to be a cut down unit (as described here on the forum) and not the factory original meant for my car.

Please PM with any leads.

Thanks in advance


Bill

[First:]

First:
The new 1969-70 Shelby registry has arrived, much thanks go out to all who contributed.
Tons of new, never before published by SAAC, type information.
Lot's of breakdowns now in print
600+ pages will take me a little longer to review and digest.

Second:

  Just thinking out loud here, I'm thinking an updated file or two did not get transferred over, or was lost in the shuffle, as can happen when undertaking such a monumental task like this one.

Items that I see
1584-New owner (Alan) missing
2642-New found, dealer information missing

Not complaining, just pointing out

Once again, my thanks go out to all who made this happen.

Bill

Motorcraft C7DF-L 289 V4 manual transmission carb
Fits many Ford engines, but I believe this would be an original replacement for the 67 Mustang/Cougar with a 289 4-V and a 4-spd. Without thermactor emissions control system (IE: not stock for California)
Rebuilt several years ago, and used for a short time on my old 69 GT500 just to move it around my garage while the stock carb was out at Drew's shop for restoration.

$350 obo.

Serious inquiries only.

Bill

I propose a new subforum here on the SAAC Forum named "Lost & Found"

Theme:

65-70 Shelby specific cars only
Those found
Those lost to he ages, or owned in the past and are now being searched for
Similar to the old "Cars Held Hostage" thread on the old SAAC 1.0