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It would install the same way as a '66 GT350 attached the factory dual exhaust to headers.

Interesting subject, thanks for sharing... now we're going to have to deal with a whole slew of '65's showing up in SAAC concours with rear carpet!   

I personally do not mind those that use the forum for classifieds, I've been able to source difficult to find bits over the years here and other forums over the years.  Not many sources to find some of the more unique items.

If you have the white vacuum plunger that mounts on the column, could be the '67 column

Thank you - 110% correct. This whole exercise is about getting people thinking CJ when they look for parts. I'll wager they will not have the car judged at a Mustang or Shelby event beyond peoples choice.

Wishful thinking on my part to consider anything different.    

Hope they at least use good original doors and preferably original fenders/hood.  Parts coupe is usually the best easy button, but the higher buy-in price seems too much for some... although it almost always ends up being the cheaper route and a better car when done.

Charles, Thanks for the tip.  Will reach out before I send it in.

If your master cylinder has it's original guts, would be good to measure the depth to give them a reference point.

Seems like a good metal guy, certainly has been there/done that.  Instead of going the full repro parts route, he could set a good example and show how to repair the car with original sheet metal from a SJ parts coupe/NOS pieces.  Done like that, nobody could knock him for the work.

Not sure if this is still a thing, but some 65-66 master cylinders I had sleeved/rebuilt over the past few years have a slightly deeper cavity in the master cylinder piston where the push rod goes in.  It causes the pedal to sit a bit lower than the clutch pedal and reduces effectiveness of the brakes.  Have had at least 3 65-66 disc brake master cylinders like this.  2 of the cars I used an adjustable push rod.  Another had the push rod length modified.  It's about 1/4" difference.

Might be worth asking White Post about it.

Is it necessary to unzip the split glass rear window before putting the top down?

It's not necessary, but unzipping will release the pressure on the window seams and extend the life of the top.

It is a 4-speed car.

6S1618 has an auto trans

I messaged them a few months back, but no reply.

It was a pretty well done car for the time it was restored and it looks like there are still a lot of trick parts on it that would be impossible to find these days.  Although, I wonder if the wheels on it now are the same ones when it was judged?  Those wouldn't pass in any concours judging these days... correct 15x6 KH wheels are a big $$ item.

I've had that happen on some NOS exhaust pipes with surface rust that I cleaned off.  Thought it might have been from the rust inhibitor I applied to the pipes.  It comes off with some work.  Aluminized pipes don't do this if I remember right, which is why they're better for cars that are driven.

From what I've gathered over the years is that Ford developed most of the suspension modifications for the GT-350 and worked with SA in testing and making adjustments.  Klaus Arning was a ford engineer whose name comes up often regarding suspension development and credited with the 1" upper control arm drop modification.

First 2 pics are a '66 Dearborn C4.
Last 2 pics are a '65 Dearborn 4 speed.
Same clip.

For clarity, that's the clip that's used under the car on the trans crossmember reinforcement on the unibody.  The toe-board one is different.