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Is it all/mostly original with low miles? 

These cars seem to be sensitive to miles and repaint.  Value also seems to follow production numbers, like the early Shelby's.  Low production numbers or colors/options may be worth more.

I worked on a car with this conversion last year, the seal leaked.  I replaced it with a new seal, just like the one that came off, used the recommended sealer/lube and it leaked after a few weeks.

The thing I don't like about the conversion is once it's done, there's no going back to original.  The back of the block is machined and you're at the mercy of the skills of the machine shop doing this job and hope they don't screw something up... a bit risky, especially with an original VIN stamped block.

On the original 2 piece, I've had good luck using OEM seals, the later Ford ones had a C9ZZ service number.

Looking for an original 65-66 fastback interior belt molding center joint.  This is the small piece above the trap door opening where the 2 metal moldings come together.  Held on with a single oval head chrome screw.

Thanks

For 65-66 Mustang, the -C would only be for a rear shock with handling package.  Front shocks with handling package would be -B.

It would install the same way as a '66 GT350 attached the factory dual exhaust to headers.

Interesting subject, thanks for sharing... now we're going to have to deal with a whole slew of '65's showing up in SAAC concours with rear carpet!   

I personally do not mind those that use the forum for classifieds, I've been able to source difficult to find bits over the years here and other forums over the years.  Not many sources to find some of the more unique items.

If you have the white vacuum plunger that mounts on the column, could be the '67 column

Thank you - 110% correct. This whole exercise is about getting people thinking CJ when they look for parts. I'll wager they will not have the car judged at a Mustang or Shelby event beyond peoples choice.

Wishful thinking on my part to consider anything different.    

Hope they at least use good original doors and preferably original fenders/hood.  Parts coupe is usually the best easy button, but the higher buy-in price seems too much for some... although it almost always ends up being the cheaper route and a better car when done.

Charles, Thanks for the tip.  Will reach out before I send it in.

If your master cylinder has it's original guts, would be good to measure the depth to give them a reference point.

Seems like a good metal guy, certainly has been there/done that.  Instead of going the full repro parts route, he could set a good example and show how to repair the car with original sheet metal from a SJ parts coupe/NOS pieces.  Done like that, nobody could knock him for the work.

Not sure if this is still a thing, but some 65-66 master cylinders I had sleeved/rebuilt over the past few years have a slightly deeper cavity in the master cylinder piston where the push rod goes in.  It causes the pedal to sit a bit lower than the clutch pedal and reduces effectiveness of the brakes.  Have had at least 3 65-66 disc brake master cylinders like this.  2 of the cars I used an adjustable push rod.  Another had the push rod length modified.  It's about 1/4" difference.

Might be worth asking White Post about it.

Is it necessary to unzip the split glass rear window before putting the top down?

It's not necessary, but unzipping will release the pressure on the window seams and extend the life of the top.

It is a 4-speed car.

6S1618 has an auto trans

I messaged them a few months back, but no reply.