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Interesting.  Thanks.

My early '69 GT350 (#100) has 5RS68 stamped on the leaf springs, and no other stampings.  Does anyone know what colors would have been stamped on my build sheet for the leaf spring section?  I can't find my build sheet.

My car has a few other anomalies as well.

It's a good thing I decided to replace my original rag joint.  The splines are worn away. 

Is there a specification for the length, or trial and error?

Yes, it's in the shop manual.

I decided to buy one of these Lares rag joints.  NPD carries them so they must be pretty good.  I'm going to let my trusted mechanic install it. 

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/LSC-219

Sold.

Price lowered to $125.

The splines on the rag joint that mesh to the steering gear must be damaged on my rag joint.  I can turn the rag joint 3/8" until it makes contact with the steering gear splines.  I am pretty sure this is contributing to my steering wheel play. 

I think I ruined the rag joint when I removed the steering gear 8 years ago for a rebuild.  I couldn't get the rag joint separated from the steering gear, and I remember prying the rag joint open at the gap opening where the bolt tightens it to the steering gear.

I'd like to replace the rag joint since I think the fine threads are stripped.  Does anyone know how to do this without removing the steering gear or steering column.  The Ford Shop manual doesn't have a procedure for this project.  Any tips are appreciated. Also, is anyone making a good repro for the tilt rag joint?  I see NPD carries one.   

I wouldn't go with EFI.  I had a Sniper EFI on my '69 GT350.  It was great for 4 years, but then it had an internal fuel driver failure.  It dumped a lot of fuel into my intake and cylinders because of a false lean condition.  These EFI systems do not have any programming or prevention built in if a failure occurs like OEM systems do on newer cars.  When they fail, they can create a false lean or false rich condition that can damage your engine.

A bead blasted and painted original Ford power brake pedal support.  A MustangSteve ball bearing clutch pedal shaft kit was professionally installed and welded on by MustangSteve.  I decided to not convert to m/t so I am selling it.

Supposedly, these ball bearing clutch shaft kits greatly reduce clutch pedal effort. 

$125.  I can deliver it to Ford Carlisle. 

There are no $54K 1968 GT500s unless they are totaled.  Maybe in 1995 there were. 

Another benefit of using the LED bulbs is a much lower load on the turn signal switch.

Very true.  That is why I switched to LED lights in my Lucas fog lights as well.  Huge draw reduction.

I went electronic/LED many years ago when the sets got released and that is what I recommend. Brighter and no more failed boards(I've had a few over 30 years)

That was 2015 Gary.  I bought my LED kit within 2 weeks of you buying the kit from Vic.  I bought off his eBay site Barganspot. 

https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_dmd=2&iconV2Request=true&_ssn=paulson_kim&store_name=barganspot&_oac=1&store_cat=7290380

When you did the conversion did you do all exterior lights or only taillights?

Pete

I did the tail lights and LED front turn signals from Vic.  Huge improvement if you drive the car.

Wow. It's 30 minutes away from me.  I might go look at it.

Here are what the gaps look like in mine.