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I'm guessing it's at his office 

First choice in doing a correct restoration should be single stage, but there are many reasons a shop or owner may choose to go with BC/CC.  On a T-bred/Premiere car, it's more critical that the paint system be single stage, but otherwise, if it appears correct as Bob P mentioned, I don't see any issues in Concours.  We're not going to ask owners to rub an area of paint to see if color comes up, we will simply judge them as presented.  The only time BC/CC becomes a big issue is when there has been extensive 'cut and buff', which removes all orange peel.

There's a tupperware style bowl that is used for steaming vegetables.  It has a screened insert that keeps the food raised up off of the water.  Basically, you need something like that.  Fill with water, put the buildsheet in the bowl, suspended above the water, so it takes in moisture.  Leave it in there, covered for about 24 hours.  Should be able to unfold the buildsheet safely.

It does get old after a while.  Agree that most 'barn finds' are a result of neglect and very rarely can be dusted off and put back on the road with little effort. 

I'm sure a lot of us do dream of finding that rare car tucked away somewhere and able to buy it at a good price.  There's a little treasure-hunter in all of us.

'68 GT350 has -20% for an automatic, big hit.

The dimensions are smaller than a normal size 22F.  I am not convinced that is the same battery used for 64.5 cars.  They would have had a tar-top, so that part is right.

If the car is mostly original, then best to go with the stock clutch size.  Changing out flywheel's wouldn't be too terrible, could throw off engine balance though.  Changing out the bellhousing would be visually noticeable and might create other headaches concerning clutch forks, push pins, Z-bar, etc...

IMHO, the only thing to consider is going with a diaphragm, modern type clutch or the old pressure plate setup.  For driving, you'd probably be better off with a newer style diaphragm.

It would be helpful to those that do not have that book to post some scans or pictures?

Any early Mustang/Shelby enthusiast ought to have a copy in their reference library:  www.fordsmallblock.com

Did you find you one of those white wire separators/holders?

There is an off-white wire separator on one side 

Page 8-40 and 8-48 show details.  The LH side wasn't really the question, although following the pics, the #8 wire is laying against the smog valve.  The RH side wires mounted through a clip in the middle of the Cobra valve cover, not like the ordinary 302 with the stand-off bracket.  I'll have to see if the plug wires fit with all routing behind the emission valve.  Right now, I believe I have them split, 2 in front and 2 in back.

Is there anything tricky about swapping out the whole assembly and pilot bearing?  Any special tools required? and pictures of this procedure?

The only special tool is the clutch disc alignment pin, which usually comes with the clutch kits.  If you're going to swap all the clutch parts, might as well get the flywheel checked out and possibly resurfaced.

It's typically recommended that all 3 clutch components should be replaced at the same time as they all wear together (clutch disc, pressure plate, release bearing).

Another more obscure detail is how do the plug wires route around the thermactor tubes on a '68 GT350 with T/E?  I haven't been able to find any good references for this.

On the one with the flat fins, can you bend the metal easily with your hands?  If so, would be an indication that it's a reproduction.

Seems it wasn't that out of the ordinary to have a tow hitch on cars then.  A '68 Shelby a friend of mine bought was used by the original owner to tow his sailboat!