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I've had much success using CODE RED active wheel cleaner by Surf City Garage. All of my data comes from using this product (and others) on my Honda Civic with very "busy" construction meaning that there are a lot of nooks, crannies, tight radii, etc. which do not allow fingers w/rags or even the use of soft wheel brushes to be used successfully. The CODE RED is a spray on-hose off product with no need for scrubbing (generally). It sprays on GREEN and, when it turns RED, it is ready to hose off with a strong spray or pressure washer if you have one (I never used a pressure washer on my wheels). I never had to resort to scrubbing. I sometimes applied the product a second time for tenacious brake dust.

Surf City Garage advertises that CODE RED is safe on all wheels. It is acid-free and ph-neutral. It changes color when it attacks brake dust.

Check out their web site-- www.surfcitygarage.com

I hope this helps.

Frank

Thanks for the great replies everyone!

I still need to know if the lift plate goes on the front or rear carb location or does it matter?

Torque converter should be in next week with mid 50 to mid 70 temperatures outside.   That is great Texas outdoor weather!

Ron

Its a matter of positioning the lift plate in the "center" of the intake manifold so that the engine is relatively level when suspended. This is not an issue with a single carburetor. With the dual 4 setup, you might have to get creative to position the lift plate in the center.

Hope this helps.

Frank

Using the correct points will restore your ignition to having a reliable redline of 6,500+ rpm.

I've used every type of Pertronix product, and found the quality control to be hit and miss.

When you've spent some time on a dark 2 lane road removing  a crapped out Pertonix from a distributor by the light of a match, you will learn to appreciate the simplicity of the stock ignition.


Z

+1!! Sometime the cost of perceived "improvement" extends beyond monetary. The original dual point system (equipped with the "proper" points/condenser) worked great! OK, you have to change points once in a while. It isn't that difficult to do for most folks. Ford could have put the distributer in the back of the engine.

Frank

I believe that all DOT 5 fluids are compatible with other DOT 5 fluids so mixing one brand with another is not an issue.

I don't know were "local" is for you and I don't know who you tried to purchase your fluid from but you can get DOT 5 fluids from any number of on-line entities, such as E bay, Summit racing, Amazon, etc. You can use Walmart.com as a purchase source and have your product shipped to your local store, where you can pick it up and shipping is free. I'm sure you can also get it from your local Harley dealer. Just potential sources.

Be sure NOT to order DOT 5.1 which is NOT the same as DOT 5 nor is it compatible with DOT 5.

I hope this info. helps.

Frank

If your transmission is essentially stock and has not had a "go fast" shift kit installed (which could allow total manual control) it should work as described. Try it at say 40 mph to give yourself a little confidence.

I didn't explain the process of manually upshifting your green dot transmission in my first post.

To manually upshift your transmission, start out with your shift lever in Low and accelerate to your desired shift rpm. When your reach that rpm, move your selector into the normal green dot detent until the transmission shifts into second gear. When it shifts into second, pull the lever back into low. This action will hold the transmission in second gear until you reach your second-to-third gear shift point. At that point, move the selector back to "green dot" and the transmission will shift into third gear.

Ford really had a "better idea" in 1967 when they changed the valve body and made the 1, 2, 3 shift selector.

I hope this info. helps.

Frank

As I remember (its been a while since I drove a "green dot" automatic), normal driving should be done by placing the selector in the green dot position. In that position, the transmission will shift through all three gears (normal). If you want the transmission to start out in "second" gear, you put the selector in the white dot position and the transmission will shift from second to third. If you want the transmission to downshift from third to second gear, you pull the selector back into L (low) from the green dot position and it will downshift to second if your speed is above around 25(?) mph and then drop into low as your speed decreases through the 25 mph threshold.

Frank

Motorcraft sells an applicable grease in a 14 oz, tube. The part number is XG-1-E1. You should be able to get the grease at your Ford dealer or on E bay.

This is NOT the grease specified in the Ford shop manual.  The common light weight grease sold today, including the MotorCraft product is the NLGI  #2

The shop manual specifies the NLGI #1, which is more fluid. 

The #2 grease is not as effective, yes it will work half-assed, but not as well as the #1 NLGI grade.

A simple google search will lead you to online vendors selling the correct grade.

Z

PS. The spec for the correct grease is found in the steering section of the Ford published shop manual. Everyone DOES have manual, right ?  ?  ?

Z, after reading your response to my reply, I did some research regarding grease specifications. I originally passed on the modern-day default Motorcraft grease (to the original posting) which is labeled as being suitable for steering boxes. I did not take into account the NLGI #2 rating of the Motorcraft grease when I recommended this product. You are totally correct that our old steering boxes should use grease that is NLGI #1 rated. For those wondering what these specifications are, they have to do with the viscosity or fluidity of a grease. NLGI #1 has the consistency of tomato paste whereas NLGI #2 has the consistency of peanut butter.

I don't think that we should end this discussion here because I feel that there are equally if not more important aspects of a chosen grease than just fluidity. More specifically, does the grease contain moly disulfide? The original specified steering box grease (C3AZ-19578-A) contained moly disulfide. I don't know what percentage is because I'm too cheap to "buy" the engineering specification and I couldn't find it for free on the internet. Moly disulfide is an extreme pressure additive added to the grease to reduce friction and resultant wear (over time) of the lubricated parts. In our steering boxes, the highest loading is the interface between the recirculating balls and the worm gear. This is not an area where you want to experience lubrication breakdown.

To make a short story longer, choose your steering box grease wisely. I don't think it is wise to formulate your own. While searching for a suitable grease, I came across Amsoil GPOR1CR-EA Synthetic Polymeric Off-road Grease. This grease has a high content of Moly disulfide (5%) and meets the NLGI #1 specification. I'm sure there are other greases that comply as well.

Thanks again "Z" for helping me to think.

Motorcraft sells an applicable grease in a 14 oz, tube. The part number is XG-1-E1. You should be able to get the grease at your Ford dealer or on E bay.

   OK Gary ,
       I'll stir up the hornet's nest . Everybody wants to run zinc loaded oils to keep their flat tappet ( lifter face) cams from going "flat". "IMHO" , beyond that , there is NO reason to have ''high level" zinc oil.
      Starting and the basic knowledge level, cams that use flat face lifters ( hydraulic or solid internals) have "taper" ground into the lobe shape to promote lifter rotation , along with a specific , shallow radius on the actual lifter face to work with the lobe taper. Both the cam and the lifter are hardened to manufacturer specifications for long term wear resistance. New camshafts have a phosphate ( break in) coating applied to them . "Some" but not all lifters can have a similar face coating as well. If a camshaft OR lifter doesn't have the proper shape ground into it OR heat treatment, it will FAIL regardless of how much zinc is in the oil. Camshaft manufacturers typically include , moly paste , extreme pressure grease . or other "camshaft assembly lubes" in their kits for break in purposes. Most of the preceding is common knowledge. "most" camshaft failures occur in the initial start up and or first 50-100 miles or the break in time. Performance camshaft manufactures have ( recently) been increasing the amount of lobe taper to enhance lifter rotation in case a lower zinc content oil is used. It seems to be working as break in failures are down. Once beyond that camshafts have been known to last over 100,000 miles. Long term camshaft failure is "most" often traceable to reduced oil "splash" as oil pressure drops with larger bearing clearances. The only other "mechanical"  condition that can "flatten" a lobe is excessive valve spring pressure , "coil bind" or another form of valve train bind.
        Once "broken in", large amounts of zinc should not be "necessary" as lifter rotation has already been established. A lower zinc ( commonly available) oil should be fine. Oil viscosity IS directly related to bearing clearances and older engines need higher viscosity than "modern" production engines. Multi viscosity oils are recommended in colder climates or extreme racing conditions.
      Synthetics are great in modern engines and not a bad thing in flat tappet engines that have past the "break in " period.  Synthetics reduce friction and friction "flattens" flat lifter camshafts.

    IMHO ( again) the only way for you to REALLY know if an oil is doing a good job is to "regularly" look at the internals of your engine by taking it apart for inspection. Beyond that I don't know how anyone can boast about how good "their" brand of oil is doing for them. Since most guys don't , pick an oil and quality filter. Run it until the oil loses "transparency" ( mileage and use will cause a time variation). In some cases 3,000 is wasting "good" oil  and in others it's "just right".

          OK start shooting the flaming arrows at me now!
        Randy

+1 VERY well said. No flaming arrows here.

Thank you Bob and Jeff. I figured if anyone had the answers, you guys would. Your collective knowledge is much appreciated.

Frank

Guys, I'm in the process of rebuilding my original spring saddles and would like to know if the outer bushing sleeve was originally bare (like the sheet metal portion of the saddle) or black oxide treated (plated?). If the bushing sleeve was treated, how dark should it be? Can you also verify if the bushing shaft ends (the area that the attaching bolts go through) was black oxide treated also?

Thanks for your input in advance.

Frank

I took a screen shot from Forum 1 (original thread reply from October 14,2014 by 6S2020) and the screw info. and dimensions are as follows:

Screws are phillips pan heads 1 5/16" long.

Spacers are 11/16" long, 1/2" diameter (OD) w/1/16" wall.

Thanks, guys for all of the feedback. As always, it is much appreciated.

I guess that I worded my question somewhat wrong. I really meant to ask: Has anyone experienced any leakage with a cylinder (master and/or wheel cylinder) that has had the bore "sleeved"? If so, what leaked and was it a result of the sleeving process?

Sorry for the confusion in the original post.

Thanks again.

Frank

Guys, I'm about ready to send in a pair of original wheel cylinders to White Post for sleeving/rebuild. I inquired about their "no warranty" policy regarding use with DOT 5 fluid. Their weak answer was something to the effect that they warrant their work for use with only fluid that was intended (OEM recommended) to be used i.e. DOT 3 or 4 fluids. In pressing them further they said that they have experienced some leakage in the past with cylinders using DOT 5 fluid (generally bleeder screw related) but couldn't remember if they were Mustang cylinders.

My question is: Has anyone experienced ANY leakage, using DOT 5 fluid, in ANY cylinder (wheel or master) in your application(s)? I'm committed to the use of DOT 5 (rather than DOT 3 or 4 "paint remover") fluid in my car for its many benefits vs. the few drawbacks that it possesses.

What are your thoughts (the more the better).

Thanks

Frank

Frank,I have not had any problems using DOT 5 in the way you describe. I have had problems with a small percentage of wheel cylinders, masters and hydraulic slave cylinders(Tiger, Cobra) that I was using DOT 3 or 4 in that White Post rebuilt. . They always took them back after brief excuses on their part but the time ,hassle and expense on my part because of the problems had me eventually choosing another rebuilder . I would find a rebuilder that will stand behind their work using DOT 5 given the rebuilder you are thinking of using has the no warranty policy with DOT 5. You might try Jim @ Shelby parts.

Bob, where were your cylinders leaking from? Were your leaks in any way sleeve-related? Like between the parent body/housing and the inserted (I presume shrunk and/or pressed in) sleeve or other sources (bleeders, tube seats, etc.)

Please advise.

Thank you!

Frank

Guys, I'm about ready to send in a pair of original wheel cylinders to White Post for sleeving/rebuild. I inquired about their "no warranty" policy regarding use with DOT 5 fluid. Their weak answer was something to the effect that they warrant their work for use with only fluid that was intended (OEM recommended) to be used i.e. DOT 3 or 4 fluids. In pressing them further they said that they have experienced some leakage in the past with cylinders using DOT 5 fluid (generally bleeder screw related) but couldn't remember if they were Mustang cylinders.

My question is: Has anyone experienced ANY leakage, using DOT 5 fluid, in ANY cylinder (wheel or master) in your application(s)? I'm committed to the use of DOT 5 (rather than DOT 3 or 4 "paint remover") fluid in my car for its many benefits vs. the few drawbacks that it possesses.

What are your thoughts (the more the better).

Thanks

Frank