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I have a production line proportioning valve in original, as found condition for sale. This valve has been sitting on one of my cabinet shelves for years and now needs a new home. The date code is 204-4 (July 23, 1964). Externally, the valve still has a heavy coating of black paint and minimal surface rust with no pitting. The line port threads are in very good condition. The pressure adjustment screw and jam nut are also in very good condition and display the original zinc plating under the heavy paint. The valve comes with the panel attaching bolt. Internal condition is unknown. Price-$200 includes shipping.

Frank

Hi SAAC forum viewers. I hope you all can help me. You have been great help in the past.
  I am looking for seat belts for my 1966 Shelby gt350H (6S1264). Ideally originals but I have never seen a set for sale. Am I looking in the wrong place? If I can not find originals is there a company or brand that looks very similar to the originals and are good quality?

   Thank-you

PM sent.

Jeff and Bob-Thank you for your corporate knowledge and pictures.

Frank

Guys, should the under-side of a '66 all steel, black hood be finished in gloss, semi-gloss, or flat black?

Thanks in advance for your help.

Frank

. You can EASILY de value your engine by porting it.

    I suppose if your referring to the possibility of "holing-thru" the casting, I can understand your perspective; otherwise if the porting work is executed properly, even if done conservatively so as to reduce the likelihood of failure, I really feel that this can be of a significant value enhancement for those whom really want to drive and enjoy their car in a spirited manor. 


In the Used Parts World, stock (non-ported) heads are more desirable for the perspective buyer than the ported units. So many heads have been ruined by amateur porting and it is difficult to determine a performance-enhancing port job versus potential junk by looking at them.

I think that a better option would be to purchase a set of performance heads. Generally speaking, these heads will out perform posed originals. 

If it were mine, I would forget the port and polish and hydraulic camshaft. You can EASILY de value your engine by porting it. NOTHING sounds better than a solid lifter hipo. I don't consider a hydraulic camshaft an upgrade-especially to a hipo. It ain't a hipo unless it sounds like a hipo.

[/quote]My question is have you used them on cast aluminum like the CJ PS brackets, smog pump  housings, alt housings  or distributors? If so some "you tube" demos  talk about an ultrasonic media cleaner? I'm wondering about also using evaporust in a container submerged in the water solution to clean rusted parts?
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I use my ultrasonic cleaner all the time for parts cleaning. I haven't tried it with Evaporust however. In theory I would think that the agitation/heat created by the ultrasonic cleaner would accelerate the de-rusting process however in actual use I wouldn't operate the ultrasonic cleaner for the hours/days that Evaporust usually takes to do its job. Ultrasonic cleaners generate a lot of heat that can be damaging to the crystal if left for extended periods of time.

After delving into the grey matter of what's left of my brain, I have come to the conclusion that it probably really does not matter what the size of the hole in the lifter disc might be unless it is smaller in diameter than the hole in the cupped ends of the push rod. The reason being is that the smallest hole or orifice in the lifter/pushrod/rocker arm is what is going to dictate the flow/pressure of this oiling circuit. If I remember correctly (big if) the smallest hole or orifice is the pee hole in the pushrod socket of the rocker arm that piddles oil on the rocker ball and indirectly down to the valve guide area. Please correct me if this isn not the smallest orifice. SOOOO, if all of the internal lifter pieces are similar in both of the lifters that the original OP compared, disc hole diameter size is probably a moot point.

Thanks, Royce for the good discussion and for FORCING me to think.

Frank

When I got the carb back from Drew, I adjusted it to the engine and set the timing using the max vacuum as target. It is pulling about 16.5 inches now from the PCV port at the back of the intake.

I will check the lines to the transmission next. Could the vacuum lines to the transmission and/or the modulator be leaking and still allow the 16.5" of vacuum at the PCV port?

Drew does excellent work, the carb performs exceptionally.

Thanks guys, Paul

Paul, you want the pcv active when you perform the manifold vacuum test. I would suggest installing a temporary tee in the connection where the transmission vacuum line connects to the intake manifold. The pcv is, by definition, is a vacuum leak. You want to determine if there are additional vacuum leaks.

Frank

Perform a manifold vacuum test on a warm engine, idling, and in park. I don't know the altitude of where you reside, but I would expect approximately 16 inches of manifold vacuum. If it is 14 inches or less, I would expect that you might have one or more vacuum leaks that you need to hunt down, like maybe the rubber hoses that connect the vacuum line from the manifold to the vacuum modulator. If it has never been changed, the modulator could be your source also. There could be other sources of leakage but try the easiest first. It is a simple diagnostic test to perform.

I hope this helps.

Frank

Making the hole smaller would increase the oil pressure.

My guess would be that it was done to decrease the oil flow to the rocker arms. I think that the smaller diameter in the discs would increase oil pressure to a very small degree.

Frank

Comp Cams sells a cam and lifter package for the HiPo as well.

https://www.compcams.com/factory-muscletm-c30zs-cam-lifters.html

You can question the numbers, but you CAN NOT dispute the original dirt. It would be a shame to loose that!

I personally think that the issue with the bolts loosening on the oil pan is caused by using a cork gasket?
Those things compress over time and that right there can cause loose bolts.

Doug is spot on! Cork compresses and rubber creeps causing the symptoms that the OP described. If one over tightens sheet metal engine oil or trans pan bolts, it distorts the pan sealing surface and causes increased oil leakage. There are non-stock band aid fixes (doublers) that can lessen the effects but once the pans are distorted leaks (seepage) will ensue.

Frank

The prices are really affordable. They'll probably sell out quickly-even for Cougar stuff.