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For Sale: Freeze plug and dowel kit, NOS Ford Racing M-6026-A302 for small block engines. This is the 24 piece kit. The 1.5 inch plugs have the manufacturers stamp as did the original vintage plugs. $25 plus the ride.

SOLD

I have a production line proportioning valve in original, as found condition for sale. This valve has been sitting on one of my cabinet shelves for years and now needs a new home. The date code is 204-4 (July 23, 1964). Externally, the valve still has a heavy coating of black paint and minimal surface rust with no pitting. The line port threads are in very good condition. The pressure adjustment screw and jam nut are also in very good condition and display the original zinc plating under the heavy paint. The valve comes with the panel attaching bolt. Internal condition is unknown. Price-$200 includes shipping.

Frank

Guys, should the under-side of a '66 all steel, black hood be finished in gloss, semi-gloss, or flat black?

Thanks in advance for your help.

Frank

This is not mine. I saw it on Cragslist and passing it on.

Frank

https://sacramento.craigslist.org/pts/d/carmichael-mustang-parts-goodyear-mini/7420587949.html

Guys, I'm in need of one passenger side brake caliper core (or at least the bare casting halves) in rebuildable condition. The unit I'm looking for accepts the 3/8-24 threaded brake hose. I have a '67-type (that accepts the 7/16-20 brake hose) to trade if someone needs that particular type or will purchase outright.

Thanks in advance for your help.

Frank

Guys, I remember a discussion(s) about the factory finish that was on the black HiPo alternator pulleys. I remember that the correct finish is not black paint of any type but was something like PO or black zinc that was oiled for protection. Can anyone provide me with the proper finish data? A picture(s) would also be helpful if you have some available. I am restoring an original, non-plated pulley.

Thanks in advance for your help.

Frank

Does anyone know of a source for a "later" style proportioning valve piston (new)? A serviceable used piston would also work.

Let me know if you know of a source for a new piston or if you have a used one collecting dust that is excess.

Thanks in advance for your help.

Frank

Guys, I'm in the process of rebuilding my HiPo C4. The transmission currently has a rebuilt single-drain-plug converter in it which I'm going to replace during the rebuild. My question is: Was this transmission equipped originally with a single or double drain plug converter? When in time did Ford transition from the double to single drain plug unit?

My car serial number is 6S803 and was built in the November/December '65 time frame.

Any wisdom would be appreciated.

Thanks in advance for your reply.

Frank

Guys, I'm running out of resources to answer the following questions myself. I want to install a grille emblem on my car (6S803) as a previous owner (thief?) removed the original emblem.

I have a mint used emblem (C4ZB-16C228-C) left side running horse and a reproduced (long ago) S2MS-8202-A bracket set to work with. My questions are with respect to the flat spring nuts (AKA "tinnerman") that retain the emblem in the brackets.

The '66 Shelby Unique Parts Manual specifies 45052-S7 nuts for this application. My AMK Product Guide describes these nuts as being used on .187Ø studs AND are very large (length/width) for this application. The stud diameters (on my emblems) are nominally .093Ø.

Question#1: Do you know what the REAL flat spring nuts (part number and/or physical dimensions) were used for this purpose?

Question#2: Do you know what the finish of the brackets should be (bare, PO, painted, etc.)?

Question#3: Does anyone have a picture of the back side of the grille-attached emblem that they could share?

Like I stated, I'm out of options on my end to answer these questions. Any wisdom would be much appreciated.

Thanks in advance for your help.

Frank 

I know that there has been previous discussions/photos of the attachment bolts for brace-to-cowl assembly. It was also mentioned that there were different types depending on serial number/production dates.

I'm seeking to find out what type of bolt/finish was correct for my car, which is 6S803, built somewhere in the mid-November/mid-December ('65) time frame. As always, pictures are most appreciated.

Thanks in advance for your help.

Frank

Guys, I need some confirmation regarding the 3 bolts that attach the master cylinder to the firewall adapter.

Were these bolts 3/8-16 x 1.00" long hex-head (9/16") "garden variety" plated hardware store (from yester-year) units that had no head markings? Or were they...................?

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks in advance for your help.

Frank

I saw this item in Craigslist. I thought it might be of some interest.

Frank

https://sfbay.craigslist.org/nby/pts/6750102494.html

Guys, I'm in the beginning stages of rebuilding the original MICO master cylinder from my GT-350H (6S803). My primary question is whether or not the casting was bare or painted black? My original casting IS painted black as are many of the internet-posted pictures of this type of master cylinder. I know that this question has been asked/debated before (probably on Forum I?) and folks have posted that their master cylinder casting was "bare". I've noticed also that the steel brake lines are also painted black in some of the photos (I replaced my original lines many years ago and don't remember if they were painted or not). Would either finish be deemed correct? If there are others that have the painted casting, can we get some statistical data?

Any/all shared wisdom would be appreciated.

Thanks in advance for your help.

Frank

Guys, I'm in the process of rebuilding my original spring saddles and would like to know if the outer bushing sleeve was originally bare (like the sheet metal portion of the saddle) or black oxide treated (plated?). If the bushing sleeve was treated, how dark should it be? Can you also verify if the bushing shaft ends (the area that the attaching bolts go through) was black oxide treated also?

Thanks for your input in advance.

Frank

Guys, I'm about ready to send in a pair of original wheel cylinders to White Post for sleeving/rebuild. I inquired about their "no warranty" policy regarding use with DOT 5 fluid. Their weak answer was something to the effect that they warrant their work for use with only fluid that was intended (OEM recommended) to be used i.e. DOT 3 or 4 fluids. In pressing them further they said that they have experienced some leakage in the past with cylinders using DOT 5 fluid (generally bleeder screw related) but couldn't remember if they were Mustang cylinders.

My question is: Has anyone experienced ANY leakage, using DOT 5 fluid, in ANY cylinder (wheel or master) in your application(s)? I'm committed to the use of DOT 5 (rather than DOT 3 or 4 "paint remover") fluid in my car for its many benefits vs. the few drawbacks that it possesses.

What are your thoughts (the more the better).

Thanks

Frank 

Guys, what is the correct bore diameter for the rear wheel cylinders on a GT-350H (built in the mid-November/December time frame)?

Thanks in advance for your help.

Frank

Guys, I've listed my J64-dated Hipo fan in the Swap Meet section in hopes of trading it to someone that has a fan more suited to my application, i.e. a fan dated in the H/J/K65 time frame (my engine assembly date is November 2, 1965).

My questions are:

Am I searching for non existent date-coded fans? Is this another item that falls in the category of a "batch" manufactured part due to relatively low production needs (like air cleaner bases)?

If so, what are your opinions regarding a "correct" fan date for my application?

What does YOUR car have for a fan date in the same time frame that my engine was assembled?

Any/all help would be most appreciated.

Thanks in advance for your comments.

Frank