Header recommendations?

[SCJSTU]

With headers get a power steering drop bracket to clear stuff

Word of caution on my 1970 SCJ I noticed that the bracket which was a bolt on would move when the wheel was turned at least when the car was sitting still. You may want to weld the bracket

[Bill]

Primarily sound, weight, efficiency.

Are you planning to drag race your car, or do you just want a louder, more aggressive tone to your exhaust?
If drag racing, yes, every HP counts, if not, then perhaps a true dual exhaust with different mufflers leading back to the center exhaust outlet would be a better choice.

[Bigfoot]

FPA for sure,... but I have Hooker super comps on my 68.5

[Dennis Y]

FPA ++++++  Stan makes a great product. Every set is custom made (which is why no prices are listed) and I think he's done some for every combination out there. They're definitely not cheap but everyone I know that has used them has been more than satisfied. Mine are down in the basement waiting for the car to return from Paint Prison. Mine were for a 351 car and IIRC I was right around $1400 with the Black Ice powder coating, a drop bracket and shipping. Usually 4 - 6 weeks, a little longer over the winter when everyone is building.

[TA Coupe]

Here's the bracket that Rich Rodeck made for me. After I had problems with the drop bracket, pulling the bolts right through the frame. Completely solved the problem of the bracket moving around.

     Roy

[Bob Gaines]

Here's the bracket that Rich Rodeck made for me. After I had problems with the drop bracket, pulling the bolts right through the frame. Completely solved the problem of the bracket moving around.

     Roy

Nice . How is the added support attached to the chassis?

[TA Coupe]

More information here:

https://www.saac.com/forum/index.php?topic=30937.msg224864#msg224864

      Roy

[TLea]

Why do it?  Because if you really want to relive the period, everybody did it! 

Yep been there done that. Thats why I say don't 

[pbf777]

     Just no resilience!

     All I can say is; "Go big (tube), or go home"!   

     Scott.

     

[TLea]

Oh trust me I'm anything but anti header, look at these Shelby drag/trans am headers I had made. Just saying the header on the street car has its issues.

[shelbydoug]

On an FE, you will find it difficult to fit in 2" primaries. I had a set of Hooker super comps that were 2-1/8"od.
The front two tubes were in front of the shock uprights and were all slip tubs.

They were impressive looking, making the car look like a gorilla dragging his knuckles, but if there was any improvement, it was hard to notice.

The major issue is that ALL FE's use the same exhaust port and to be polite, it is much less then desirable.

The 1-3/4 od tubes are about as big as practicle and if you use Hookers, the collector points down and is really too low for a street car.

They are better then the stock CJ manifolds but they do present maintenance issues. If you get them pass up the stainless steel tubes for ceramic coatings. That helps significantly.

The Hookers are about the only "old school designs" left. Many have gone to a tri-y design which fits better but doesn't flow as much as needed.

[68blk500c]

Oh trust me I'm anything but anti header, look at these Shelby drag/trans am headers I had made. Just saying the header on the street car has its issues.

Those sure look nice, Tim.

[pbf777]

    Hey,

    Any of you guys know of, or have any old literature on Belanger Headers?  I've got and old set of long-tubes for an FE but I'm not sure for what chassis?  I contacted the current company several years ago but they were unable to help.   

    The Belanger number on the tag is: "ED1-5220";  Anyone with any ideas?   

    Scott.

[TLea]

Oh trust me I'm anything but anti header, look at these Shelby drag/trans am headers I had made. Just saying the header on the street car has its issues.

Those sure look nice, Tim.

They'd fit right in Lee's 66 

[shelbydoug]

Oh trust me I'm anything but anti header, look at these Shelby drag/trans am headers I had made. Just saying the header on the street car has its issues.

Those sure look nice, Tim.

They'd fit right in Lee's 66 

Well this brings up another topic. In a "Mustang" the pitman arm clearance is the issue.
Not all years use the same Pitman arm AND the "fast steering" is also a different arm.

I had a new set of JBA's for my '68 GT350. When installed, the car couldn't turn left. The Pitman arm was right up against the #5 tube.

JBA didn't know why and suggested that I had some sort of a bastard car?The fact is they had built the headers on a manual' steering 67. Dah! No brainer to me why they were different.

It took them a year to fix the design. Actually rather simple but they wouldn't let me touch the headers choosing to burn the distributor I got them from as if he created the problem?


Incidentally, IF you can find a used set that has already been fitted to a similar car, you want them with the dents where the mechanic needed to clearance for obstructions. It will save you tons of time.

I was fortunate to find such a set, probably made by Hooker, circa '68-69, a very early set before they got sold into the Holley family of parts. Not only do they have those dents, but the collector mounts up into the chassis so no low hanging fruit to bottom out on.

They are 1-3/4" od primaries. Here they are in my shop on my '67 GT500 engine. They still need to get sent out for ceramic coating.


The mounting of the extended power steering bracket can be troublesome. Originally the internal threaded inserts into the chassis were a version of what we would now call Riv Nuts or Nut Certs.
The extended leverage placed on them by the extended bracket WILL loosen them.

On my car, because likely of it's past race history has that bracket welded on.