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Perfect- I have those parts from the 250 set-up minus the starter and will use all of those and the only thing from the 66 C4 will be the body. Much easier solution than having to rebuild my 200 engine or the C4 from the 250! Thanks again!

Thanks for everyone's feedback. I don't want to use the 70 C4 so based on the feedback I am going to:
1) Pull the 1966 engine/trans (validate it's still a 66 engine)
2) Use my rebuilt 66c4 "body" and new torque converter
3) But use the 70 250 bellhousing, flexplate, and 70 starter so it bolts up to my 1970 250 replacement engine.
4) Will make sure the depth of the 66 and 70 bellhousing are the same so there aren't any issues with spacing.
5) Will check the input shaft and hope it's the same length, size and splines.

In the scenario about just wondering if I can also use the 66 flex plate and then what starter would I need to use? Does that sound reasonable, or did I miss anything?

Hello, Sorry for the non-Shelby question but I figured someone would be able to help.  I have a 1966 mustang 6cly automatic car that was my fathers. After sitting for a year I recently had the transmission rebuilt because it had issues and when I got everything hooked up of course I get an engine knock. I have a 1970 Maverick 250 with its original c4 automatic attached to it. I know the spare engine ran good so I was thinking of mating my newly rebuilt 1966 transmission/torque converter/ flex plate/ bellhousing onto the 250.  The guy I got the engine from said that the earlier bellhousing would not fit onto the 70 engine (maybe he just wanted me to buy his transmission!).  Does anyone know if my 66 trans and parts are a direct bolt up onto this 70 250??

Thanks for all the feedback and ideas I really appreciate the insight.

I checked out Lake Elsinore and the areas east of Pendleton and it does seem like that is far more reasonable than San Diego County. I'll also check out the Escondido, Chula Vista areas etc and look at the crime rates per area.  The car guy in me dreads getting rid of a car and my parts hoard but it's just going to come down to downsizing to leave closer to my daughter in SD and that costal atmosphere or going inland and to a more desert like area to get more space with maybe a 3car garage.   I thought about renting garage space but that also seems super expensive- guess I can't have it all!!!! Thanks again.

[please avoid all the political feedback-]

My wife and I would have discussed moving from the northeast to the San Diego area to be near our daughter. My dilemma is that of course that house prices are double what's near me now for a comparable house and we very rarely have neighborhood crime. I am wondering from members who know that area if you have recommendations for places to look. An 800k house is not in my cards so I will probably have to settle for towns further out.
What I'm looking for:
1) Towns within one hour of San Diego
2) Where I could have a garage for four cars squeezed in
3) Where I won't have a high risk of someone "visiting" my garage when I'm not around
From a car guy perspective any town/neighborhood suggestions?

PS- please avoid all the political feedback- I'm aware of what I would be getting into as well as the cost of living, homelessness issues etc. I'm just hoping to get some local insight into a place near my kid where I can still keep a couple cars from our family and where I'm not going to get my house broken into every year. I'm wondering if that's even possible even in the 600-700k range. Thanks in advance for your insight!
 

Thanks Dave. The company doesn't have an internet or a Facebook presence, so I tried emailing the guy to see if he is still around and makes them.

I'm doing a 70 boss and the front drivers side ribbed area of the floor is a little ruff and I'd prefer to replace the pitted metal.  West Coast Cougar used to sell the patches with the correct 4 (versus3 on most repro's) rib design but hasn't had them in two years.  Anyone know where I can order one?

I've started seeing a price dip in certain categories of Shelby's (and other 60's cars)- maybe others are noticing that also and cashing out. This is really a nice assortment for buyers.

Thank you all.  I've been working on mustangs for a very long time but always learning and these two tricks helped.  I ended up removing the stop, getting the pedal as close as I could to the dash and also drove some spacers into the spring to lengthen it for installation. It was a pain, even doing both tricks, but eventually got it in without having to mess with the column.  Thanks again!!

I have a 66 and recently removed my under dash clutch return spring on the clutch pedal support so I could replace my clutch pedal return spring bracket and the two plastic bushings the spring rests on. I put the new bracket and bushing on but can't seem to find a way to get the spring back onto the pedal and that bracket. I really don't feel like dropping my steering box or undoing steering parts to pull the steering shaft out so I can then remove the complete pedal support to then put the spring back while on a bench where it will be easy to stretch back in place.  Anyone have any secret tips that they have actually tried and succeeded where I can get the spring back on without taking everything out ? Plan it to get it done tomorrow one way or another!!

I have the complete smog set-up off a 1966 mustang 289 "A" code motor as shown. Was on a running driving car. Figured I'd see if anyone could use it. I've never seen heads like this before. The caveat is I won't ship/drop off anywhere, you must pick up, and the parts are located in Northern CT.  $200

The numbers are consistent for the first big three. What happens then is the transmission is the driving difference and then that defines the different numbers that follow (The number of grabber green with AT's versus STD's). Those reports are also designed to try to get cars to 1 of 1 so they sometimes pick obscure options and do the drill down in funky order to get a car there.  Welcome to the 1 of 1 car club- there's tons of them out there  

Thanks. Just curious- did that transition to the ribbed structure also show up on Shelby hoods built around that time if not, what were the transition dates to the ribbed under structure on the Shelby hoods (if ever)?

I used to have a picture that showed at some point Ford added ribs to the underside structure across the front of the 65-66 hood near hood pin. Does anyone know the transition dates from when the hoods had underneath ribs and didn't?

1966 1967 Corvette GM 3874799 DT-40-1868 Filler Panel Rear Exhaust Valance Panel