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I have a 66 and recently removed my under dash clutch return spring on the clutch pedal support so I could replace my clutch pedal return spring bracket and the two plastic bushings the spring rests on. I put the new bracket and bushing on but can't seem to find a way to get the spring back onto the pedal and that bracket. I really don't feel like dropping my steering box or undoing steering parts to pull the steering shaft out so I can then remove the complete pedal support to then put the spring back while on a bench where it will be easy to stretch back in place.  Anyone have any secret tips that they have actually tried and succeeded where I can get the spring back on without taking everything out ? Plan it to get it done tomorrow one way or another!!

I have the complete smog set-up off a 1966 mustang 289 "A" code motor as shown. Was on a running driving car. Figured I'd see if anyone could use it. I've never seen heads like this before. The caveat is I won't ship/drop off anywhere, you must pick up, and the parts are located in Northern CT.  $200

I used to have a picture that showed at some point Ford added ribs to the underside structure across the front of the 65-66 hood near hood pin. Does anyone know the transition dates from when the hoods had underneath ribs and didn't?

I have a real 65 9" but at some time during its history the center section was replaced by one from what looks like one from the 70's.  If I want to put something in there with at least 65 date casting info on it is there any identifiers I can look for to tell if something is a true 1965 Shelby/k-code center section? Alternatively, can I just put in one with the right year from any model car like a galaxy etc. if I just want to have the outward appearance of correctness?  What's in there works and I have the snubber bracket but would like it more if I had at least a date coded center section for 1965 so I'm contemplating my options.

I saw a posting for a blue 1968 Shelby gt350 convertible in FB Marketplace in Wantagh NY. I also happened to see a sign for it at Carlisle this past weekend (car was not there). I spoke to him and he mentioned he felt it was an original Shelby and was getting comments about it having the wrong tail panel. I tried to give him some info and also told him if he planned to put it on Bring-A-Trailer he better do his homework and at least figure out what happened to the tail panel and verify the VIN stamping are there and not just the windshield VIN tag (Shelby tag under the hood was gone).  I'm not in the market but in case anyone here is you may want to check it out (and do your due diligence). 

On the clutch pedal support there is a bracket that bolts on and extends over the side to hook the pedal spring to. Mine was bolted on wrong so I put it back to the stock look and put on a new spring. I also put new z-bar bushings in etc.  When I push the clutch pedal all the way down it almost seems like its hyperextending the spring and is pulling the pedal towards the firewall- like it doesn't want to pop back up. I just ordered a repro z-bar from VA mustang because I figured maybe my original z-bar was bent and allowing the pedal to go too far.  Any idea's why the pedal is going so far? On my other mustang the pedal doesn't go all the way to the floor and doesn't feel like it's getting hyper extended.  I don't want to risk having my pedal get stuck at the floor and figured I'd get some ideas here as I wait for the new z-bar. Maybe the new z-bar will fix it?

If it matters as part of the puzzle, it has a new clutch in the car and the adjustor from the z-bar to the clutch fork is extended out pretty far to hold itself into the clutch fork depression. (FYI- when I say hyperextends the pedal another way to explain it is if you ever have a clutch pedal assembly OUT of a car and push the clutch pedal down you can push the pedal to a point where the rotation is at a point where the spring is pulling it back versus forward as intended.)

I have a 66 and it came with some parts loose/off the car including the horns. I tested the horns and put them on and installed a new engine compartment harness.  I took the steering wheel off and if I put a jumper lead from one horn stud on the turn switch to the other and the horn will go off. I thought I was good to go but when I put the wheel back on no horn. I then tried a standard mustang wheel and still no horn. Not sure what to check now- any ideas?

I was going to replace my late 66's idler arm. I see some sites have a standard arm assembly while others have the 66 Shelby arm as a quick steering arm. Did all 66's have the quick steering as delivered by Shelby? Just want to make sure I order the right part.

I may go with a buddy to look at a 67 GT350 in a few weeks for an initial look before he invests in a real inspection. I'm more familiar with GT500's so figured I'd ask for some info here:
1) I assume they came with toploaders- what's the ID on the tag (RUG...?).
2) Did they have SPEC rears and 31 spline axles?
3) Will the heads be cast with ""1967" versus 1966 on them (assuming they still have the two dots above the 289 and the 19/20 number on the ends)
Thanks in advance for the education.

I am looking for a basic stock standard 1970 mustang steering wheel in original blue color (yes not so pretty blue lol). Doesn't have to be perfect but in good driver shape.  I don't see anyone with reproductions in anything other than black and don't think painting a wheel will hold up. If you have something PM me. Thanks.

I just put the z-bar in my 66 and need to install the upper return spring that goes from the z-bar to the firewall. Can someone post a picture of where/how it mounts? May as well do it right if I can! Thanks in advance for your help!

I have a 70gauge cluster with the deluxe woodgrain but my car should have standard interior. I know the bezels are different between 69 and 70 deluxe and standard. Is there a difference between the actual 69 and 70 gauges themselves? Are they all either stamped or printed with a date code?  I have not pulled the panel out yet and just want to make sure I can validate it's a correct 70-gauge set-up so I can still use the one in there and just put the standard bezel back on. (it's an odd ball a non-tach car). Thanks for your insight.

I have a friend with a 66 Shelby non-Hertz (believe it's in the high 700's but not 100% sure). There was a hole cut in his metal dash and the below guage was installed. I told him I have never seen one and he asked could it have been a supercharged car and that gauge was either added by Shelby or aftermarket for that.   Since I have no idea I figured I'd ask:
1) Has anyone seen a similar gauge installed in the metal face of the dash? What for?
2) Does anyone recognize the gauge and what it may have been used for (if not a supercharger gauge)?

I hate to tell him it's not as sold to the first owner and have him close it off if it was something factory or dealer installed.  I believe the car has been off the road since the early 70's.

Ok I know this is a stretch but would anyone happen to know what thread and nut size is used to hold the under-ride traction bar onto the stud mounted to the frame rail near the front part of the leaf spring? My bars were off the car and I don't believe I have the frame rail mounting stud nuts so I wanted to buy generic replacements until I can see what originals look like and maybe go down that path.

I have a late non-Hertz car and am wondering what rearend gears came in the car originally.  Today it appears to have 3.89 and there is no tag. I looked at the original Invoice and papers the club had, and they reference options like wheels and stripes but no optional rear things like a locker or special gears. Did the standard 66 Shelby come with 3.50 or 3.89 gears?

I am going through my late 66 Shelby's 9" rear and had a few parts questions. I plan to use Rockauto since they seem to have a good selection:
1) I was looking at new axle bearings - are the ones shown as 1.378 inner and 2.834 outer diameter the correct ones (saw they at CJ Pony and Rockauto)?
2) Wheel cylinders for the rear. I've seen them listed as 7/8 bore and also .22225/.875 which may be the same - can someone confirm the correct ones to get (not sure if 8" and 9" are the same)
3) I saw 10 by 2 1/4 brake shoes at Rock auto (part B154).  What size are people using in original rears and what source are they getting them from?

I don't necc. need rebuilt factory originals and I'm open to getting things from alternate sources if you have part#/company recommendations. Thanks in advance for your thoughts.

Do all 66 Shelby's have the 9" with the rear bump out or did some of the early non-carry over cars have the round back? I have a friend with a car with a December build date (maybe around car 300+- cant recall) and I assume it's one with the bump out (not round back housing) but figured you never know since his car also originally had overrides.  Was there a transition date for the two housing styles? 

I have a late 66 Shelby all cast iron T10 and it has an aftermarket Hurst shift assembly on it and have a few questions to get it back to original.
1) Could someone post a picture of the side of a similar trans so I can see how the rods and shifter assembly are mounted and be able to ID them?
2) Are the rods/shifter linkage and swivels T10 specific or are they the same as what's used on the top loader?
3) Is the shifter mechanism/base assembly the same as a regular 4spd top loader from that year? (I may have the parts just need a way to identify them)
4) If the shift rods or shift mechanism/base assembly are all unique to a T10, or Shelby for that matter, and I don't have them where would be the best place to source them so I don't buy the incorrect stuff?   

Thanks for your guidance!!

There is nice looking Shelby GT350 conv (not mine) on Facebook out of WV. Ad in Marketplace says, "1 of ten shelby convertibles given to playboy enterprises in 1968..." and " Out of the 10, this is the only black one".  Pretty interesting history. 

I don't have a link to share but an Owen Brands in NJ just posted an ad for " 1967 Ford shelby intake" and it appears to be the intake and carb for $3800.  Maybe someone here is interested if they confirm authenticity and negotiate.  I'm not affiliated with it and don't need it just figured I'd share as it's not something I see every day on Facebook marketplace.