Messages

No Buddy Bar on the either tops I have owned. I can't see why a LeMans cam would not work, just know you will have a high RPM happy motor. I made an open top long ago and it was not good to say the least. Collects dust now.     

Have vintage road raced one for years. Single 780 double pumper with both accelerator pumps 50cc, big cam, 2000 to 8500rpm no issues, below 2000 need to baby it. Needs a lot of pump shot. I love the thing, it just sings! On the street might disappoint. A duel plane would be a better choise, even a single plane.   

I have a block mis-line bored which moved the crank up in the block, which presses the upper half of the seal against the seal groove in the block. It leaks pretty bad as it crushes the seal lip down and somewhat ovals out the seal, leaving I'm sure a small but none the less gaps at the block/cap line. Seal fit is so bad I had to shave off some of the seal ends to get the cap to set on the block correctly. Just pointing this out to those who may have a similar leaking rear main and can't seem to rectify with a new seal. Never had an issue with two part seals offset 1/2" on other blocks that. were line bored. Next time engine out will go with either a one piece or a rope.   

Do you have 67 shock towers? They are course thread v fine for 65/66.

Can someone shed some light on the upper shoe pivot on the 10"x2-1/2" backing plates? I was under the assumption that all these units used a shoe anchor plate behind the self adjuster washer/cable and the two retraction shoe springs. On a friends '67 GT500 the boss is not reduced to provide the proper diameter and width to accommodate an anchor plate. The boss is the same diameter of the shoe. Seems some backing plates used the anchor plate and some not? Are '65/'66 Fairlane (Shelby) backing plates different from those used on the '67 and later backing plates? Picture shows the boss, about 13/16" in diameter?       

Just an observation. Obviously with the original Ford baked enamel, acrylic lacquer sprayed over same did not lift the stock Ford paint. I would think any acrylic enamel that is not baked or allowed to cure for months/years would lift if sprayed over with a lacquer based product. Maybe acrylic enamel with a urethane hardener might survive better. I am not a painter but maybe someone who is can pipe in?   

Probably to far from you but these guys saved a 289 hipo head with severe damage when a valve hit a piston. They went thru the whole routine... clean, heat, weld, wrapped in an asbestos blanket, heat reduced. Still on the car and this was done in 1974. Maybe they can help?     
Excelsweld USA,
1231 16th Ave, Oakland, CA 94606.
Phone Number: (510) 534-3303

 

Jerry Swartz told me he cut both the inner and outer wheel wells/lips on one car which ultimatly got him his job at SA. He did say it was a lot of work that was not pursued on subsequent cars, just bending of the lips.

As an aside circa 2000, he was building a red fastback and had come into my shop for some exhaust pipe work. The sad fact was I never got his contact info! Come to find out he lived half a mile from me and I never knew until his passing and estate sale. Could have picked his brain all those years. 

Did not Jerry Swartz do the R model rear re-radius mods?

Just noticed your initial post, top piston looks cast ?

Do you need casting prefix 155 which is the L-2218 long skirt (left) or the 255 which is a 2482 (center) with shorter skirt? All flat tops 4 valve reliefs, no skirt coating.

There is a third design, forging prefix 175 L2249, domed unit, higher compression, same skirt length as the 2482. These came with a more rounded forging with skirt ribs (right). Some of these 2249 had TRW and no forging number on the bottom side. I have never seen this shaped forging in a flat top L-2218 type.

As to different dimensions always bored the cylinders to match each piston. Replacing just one you might need to sleeve. PM your bore size and piston weight, maybe I can get close on both.       

Did not originals have a raised L on the face?

I have singles of both styles, what I call early and later of L-2218.+030. Post a picture of the bottom of the piston. I will trade you for one of those new sets you got for one piston, LOL!   

Can't seem to find how to do? No issue with picture uploads on the Forum, just with PM'S. I see the URL upload but I want to upload from my computer files. 

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