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Just an observation. Obviously with the original Ford baked enamel, acrylic lacquer sprayed over same did not lift the stock Ford paint. I would think any acrylic enamel that is not baked or allowed to cure for months/years would lift if sprayed over with a lacquer based product. Maybe acrylic enamel with a urethane hardener might survive better. I am not a painter but maybe someone who is can pipe in?   

Probably to far from you but these guys saved a 289 hipo head with severe damage when a valve hit a piston. They went thru the whole routine... clean, heat, weld, wrapped in an asbestos blanket, heat reduced. Still on the car and this was done in 1974. Maybe they can help?     
Excelsweld USA,
1231 16th Ave, Oakland, CA 94606.
Phone Number: (510) 534-3303

 

Jerry Swartz told me he cut both the inner and outer wheel wells/lips on one car which ultimatly got him his job at SA. He did say it was a lot of work that was not pursued on subsequent cars, just bending of the lips.

As an aside circa 2000, he was building a red fastback and had come into my shop for some exhaust pipe work. The sad fact was I never got his contact info! Come to find out he lived half a mile from me and I never knew until his passing and estate sale. Could have picked his brain all those years. 

Did not Jerry Swartz do the R model rear re-radius mods?

Just noticed your initial post, top piston looks cast ?

Do you need casting prefix 155 which is the L-2218 long skirt (left) or the 255 which is a 2482 (center) with shorter skirt? All flat tops 4 valve reliefs, no skirt coating.

There is a third design, forging prefix 175 L2249, domed unit, higher compression, same skirt length as the 2482. These came with a more rounded forging with skirt ribs (right). Some of these 2249 had TRW and no forging number on the bottom side. I have never seen this shaped forging in a flat top L-2218 type.

As to different dimensions always bored the cylinders to match each piston. Replacing just one you might need to sleeve. PM your bore size and piston weight, maybe I can get close on both.       

Did not originals have a raised L on the face?

I have singles of both styles, what I call early and later of L-2218.+030. Post a picture of the bottom of the piston. I will trade you for one of those new sets you got for one piston, LOL!   

Can't seem to find how to do? No issue with picture uploads on the Forum, just with PM'S. I see the URL upload but I want to upload from my computer files. 

286637624171 ebay

Thanks to all!

Thnaks for the info

Was the entire interior painted the charcoal metallic or was there locations that were just a semi-flat black? The car has a fold down seat. Thanks for any info. 

Anyone know the correct bolts/screws for a 1967 Shelby; screws, hex heads, self tapping, etc? I thought they were always a hex head, self tapping, blunt point with a star lock washer. Others say they were a pointed Phillips ? Maybe assembly plant/time frame differences? Any help appreciated.

Unless the caliper cylinders are really pitted where the piston seal sits, which is pretty rare, a new piston and seal will work. The Kelsey caliper design seals on the piston not the cylinder,just  opposite of an engine piston ring and how it seals. Some GM and other make calipers have their seals on the piston making their seal on the cylinder, hence the need to sleeve corroded cylinders to get a renewed sealing surface. Again, unless you have some horrendous corrosion around the seal groove in the caliper, new (stainless steel) pistons will suffice on most rebuilds.