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Are these reproduction versions designed to work with electronic ignition? I believe the originals do not work as such.

How can one tell an original from a repop? I have a metal one on my clone which I will be selling shortly.

Absolutely gutted that I flew into Chicago on Sunday evening not knowing this event was on. Opportunities to see a real R are severely limited for anyone let alone someone living in Australia!!

The original question was for instructions on installing the plexiglass side window frames. I never saw anyone post instructions or a definite source for instructions. I'm interested because I bought a set of the frames from a SAAC member but they didn't have any instructions for installation. If anyone has a source for instructions that would be great.

I have deduced that the frames need additional brackets added on the lower front section and a mounting stud on the lower rear section in order to bolt on to the door without any further modifications. My frames came with brackets as they were lightly used (or at least prepared to be fitted at some stage). I have not yet attempted to fit them but will post a pic of what I have shortly to illustrate what I am referencing.

Good luck getting them up and running. I may just buy the SW gauges and use my existing '66 tach in position along side them. Great looking Shelby!

I second Costco. Great service with their tires and they don't bang up the wheels like most other shops.

I don't get the "extreme" figures to put this right. Change the quarters and fenders, new trim and interior. 30-50 in the scheme of this car does not seem extreme to me?

The flares aren't for me but the history is cool. I think someone buys this for a song, fixes the trim, other black highlights and interior and gets to drive a unique Shelby with interesting history.

6.6 seconds 0-60 is very respectable for a car of the 60s. Only a couple of seconds slower than some of the exotics of the 2000s...

Does the weight figure seem a little higher? I thought they were sub 3000 lbs, or was that the 65?

Amazing info Bob, thank you for sharing.

The car that ended up with the 002 tag was the one they first raced. Think of it as "proof of concept". I'd question the 50,000 miles. At 100 mph average that would be 20+ days non-stop. Over 3 months if that's all they did 8-5 5 days a week. There was not a lot of "development" in the production of the R Models. Ford sent the specs and SA built the cars. They did development work on the IRS but that was done with a Falcon. They did their own engine development but that was on a dyno.

This seems more likely based on other interviews I've heard where it was suggested the cars were hastily put onto the track quite "green" and needed a lot of development on the run in order to be successful in the coming years. I have heard quotes from both Mark Donohue and Walt Hane suggesting this.

It is meant to keep you from moving and not for comfort. With that said you are no doubt at the limit or maybe a little passed for the typical R model bucket. There are I think 3 different sized competition/R model seats that are out there. The larger sized ones are typically harder to find.

Yep, I get that. I have a more modern factory built race car of a different marque which also has a narrow seat, but this is on about level! I did not realise there were different sizes originally. Great to know.

How has this project worked out for you Deathsled? I am visiting Chicago in December to see the wife's family for Xmas and plan on bringing back a set of R model gauges in my luggage. I like the idea of the CS reproduction gauges from Branda vs the more generic Stewart Warner gauges. However I have heard one or two negatives about the reliability of the CS reproductions from Branda. Can anyone shed any light on the topic?

Fascinating. I did not realise 002 had a fibreglass bumper. I always assumed it was a steel bumper that had been painted.

Going off topic, but which serial no. was raced by Miles on debut in Texas? I read just today that they put over 50,000 miles on 002 during development, so surely they would not have entered that old mule into the first ever race for the Mustang.

Un-related but I also took delivery of a period R model bucket seat today along with the window frames and other goodies. People must have definitely been smaller in the 60s...it is one snug seat for my 6ft, 205 lb frame.

Appreciate your sleuthing efforts deathsled. Wonderful! I was confused about the vent delete panels as I have seen some cars where the rivets were painted and some un-painted. Furthermore, I have seen in some cases where the panel is painted before installation (which would pertain to unpainted rivets) and some where it is installed before being painted, in which case the panel and rivets would obviously be painted over at once. Good to know this is how Shelby did it and that there are photos to prove it. However, Shelby used single stage paint. I am not sure how this look would be achieved with modern clear coat without painting the entire roof  . My build is not a restoration so I will have to work through that with my paint shop.

As for the side window frames, a facebook group has told me they require simple brackets to be made up so that they can mount in position using the existing mounting holes for the factory street car frames. I have a bunch of R model parts on their way to me and will be happy to post pictures of this detail when the parts arrive.

I am looking for some info on the installation of the R model plexiglass side windows and frames. Do they simply bolt on to the door in the factory locations or are they welded in?

Also can anyone tell me whether the rivets for the 1/4 vent delete covers were painted body color or left in raw aluminium on the original cars?

Thanks