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I believe you are looking at the ignition switch pigtails. The factory tach harness has two separate leads that plug directly into the the bullet connector leads coming off the tach. The tach is part of a series circuit that does connect to the pink resistor wire in the harness. And yes if the tach fails, you have no spark, hence why some people have them re-wired to be on a separate circuit. If you are replacing the ignition switch pigtail, the one with the pink wire is correct.

I have read that installing a shunt resistor is advisable to avoid a fire or a lack current with a faulty gauge. My gauge works, but at 58 years old I'd hate to have a problem down the road. Has anyone installed one of these with success? Any advice on what type of shunt resistor I should buy?

I am having my tach converted for the same reason but that's more straight forward.

I have only seen those sold as part of the Cobranda kit. I suppose if you had access to an original you could source them elsewhere.

My '68 CA is titled as SHELB and has the full Ford plus Shelby sequence number.

I've had great luck with American Modern. Only modest increases over the years, never a problem adding coverage. I live in California.

I look at it a little differently. A documented original engine would yield a positive 10-20% over a non original but correct engine, with all other things being equal on a high end car. And there's way more variation due to market timing, selling venue and color combination.

And I've been on your website a million times....somehow didn't recognize it. Sorry for reposting here! It was a random post on FB btw...

Saw this pop up on social media. I've never seen it before. Curious what the white hoods are - temps from Ford?

I moved from the Northeast to San Diego 20 years ago. First, you will be hard pressed to find anything decent within an hour under $1,000,000. Second, a 3-4 car garage is extremely rare in almost any price range. I have a good size 2 car and a rented storage space for my other cars and equipment. Not ideal but it works. And its always 65 and sunny and we have a great car culture.

Having said that, look into Escondido, La Mesa, El Cajon or Chula Vista.

If the title or transferable registration is still valid and it's a '67 with an intact apron VIN stamping, Revology will build you a brand new car (one of theirs) with that donor VIN. Look at the current listing on BaT. Really hard to believe the legality of this in all 50 states, or the morality, but apparently it's being done.

I installed a new Alloy Metal Products harness. All works well except I don't get power at the coil. Here's what I have done so far:
1. Starts with key with jumper wire from battery to coil.
2. Ran test power from pink wire behind ignition switch; with tach leads jumped and cluster disconnected, still no power at coil.
3. There is continuity from coil wire to firewall plug.
4. The only thing that seems peculiar are the tach leads: the double red/yellow stripe wires exit the harness right behind cluster; the pink wire in black sheath is much longer and exits the harness closer to fuse panel.

Any ideas? Everything else works as it should.

Just sent email.

Just curious, will the SAAC registry record this data?

Thank you Bob, very helpful. I'm try to decide the extent of sound deadener based on the various differences I have seen. One question though, I have seen the spring cover bolts with the threads in the engine compartment and others, claiming to be unrestored, with threads inside the wheel well. Thoughts

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