Messages

I look at it a little differently. A documented original engine would yield a positive 10-20% over a non original but correct engine, with all other things being equal on a high end car. And there's way more variation due to market timing, selling venue and color combination.

And I've been on your website a million times....somehow didn't recognize it. Sorry for reposting here! It was a random post on FB btw...

Saw this pop up on social media. I've never seen it before. Curious what the white hoods are - temps from Ford?

I moved from the Northeast to San Diego 20 years ago. First, you will be hard pressed to find anything decent within an hour under $1,000,000. Second, a 3-4 car garage is extremely rare in almost any price range. I have a good size 2 car and a rented storage space for my other cars and equipment. Not ideal but it works. And its always 65 and sunny and we have a great car culture.

Having said that, look into Escondido, La Mesa, El Cajon or Chula Vista.

If the title or transferable registration is still valid and it's a '67 with an intact apron VIN stamping, Revology will build you a brand new car (one of theirs) with that donor VIN. Look at the current listing on BaT. Really hard to believe the legality of this in all 50 states, or the morality, but apparently it's being done.

I installed a new Alloy Metal Products harness. All works well except I don't get power at the coil. Here's what I have done so far:
1. Starts with key with jumper wire from battery to coil.
2. Ran test power from pink wire behind ignition switch; with tach leads jumped and cluster disconnected, still no power at coil.
3. There is continuity from coil wire to firewall plug.
4. The only thing that seems peculiar are the tach leads: the double red/yellow stripe wires exit the harness right behind cluster; the pink wire in black sheath is much longer and exits the harness closer to fuse panel.

Any ideas? Everything else works as it should.

Just sent email.

Just curious, will the SAAC registry record this data?

Thank you Bob, very helpful. I'm try to decide the extent of sound deadener based on the various differences I have seen. One question though, I have seen the spring cover bolts with the threads in the engine compartment and others, claiming to be unrestored, with threads inside the wheel well. Thoughts

one more....

Drivetrain, brakes, fuel system, exhaust and exterior are done. Working on electrical which is going more smoothly than I thought. Next up is to complete the engine bay, start-up, test drive then on to interior, side glass and convertible top. Hoping to be on the road in late Spring. Comments and constructive criticism are welcom!

1. Pair of '68 hood hold down brackets, missing pin catch/rivets. Blasted and painted $50
2. Pair of '68 grille/lower valence supports. Slightly bent but easily restored. $75
3. SOLD 69-70 tilt away vacuum motor bracket. Blasted and painted. $125
4. Two '69-70 center caps. Typical discoloration/inclusion cracks. $25
5. '68 4spd convertible console. Needs restoration. Side panels missing carpet/vinyl trim covering and replaced in faux biege leather. Structural pieces all there. Hole drilled in in metal plate for switch. Console lid and insert good but needs recovering and attention. $400
6. '68 Black console arm rest cover. REPRODUCTION. $75
7. '68 tail light wiring harnesses. Not sure if from Tbird? Good condition, missing socket retainers. $75
8. '68 tilt away directional switch harness. Good condition. $100

Shipping at buyers cost. Please PM me if interested and for pictures.

Found it, thank you!

Thanks. I wonder where it was on the original?

I'm installing a new Alloy Metal Products underdash harness in my'68. All the wiring and connectors match up to my original harness except for these two leads, which I can't identify in any of my wiring diagrams. Any ideas? Blue with black stripe and round terminals. Circuit breaker perhaps?