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You'll need the standard, reversible ratchet wrench to operate the factory jack. Stow per the decal instructions on the underside of the trunk lid.

IMHO, the owner of the car isn't thinking clearly.  He should purchase the block and everything else that came with it, get it re-built and either put it on an engine stand or swap it out with what's in the car now.

Tires over 5 years old will not pass inspection at some car clubs running HPDE or open track events. Best to read the fine print when you register.

Well, someone just stepped up to the tune of $625,000.

Dibs on the Hood Pin Plates @ $30.  Sent you a PM.

I have a set of white gaskets that look exactly like the picture from the catalog.  The top edge is straight and the ports are slightly larger than stock, FelPro or Mr. Gasket. There is no number or name on them and I don't recall where or when I got them. I'll supply a tracing to anyone who may want to duplicate them.
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If you want a period correct Bullitt watch, then this Benrus Alarm watch is the real deal and will cost about the same. Watch the movie closely, and you'll see it on McQueen's wrist:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/257094019468?

A few years back, I tried a set of the AUTOLITE 45's and found that they run on the cold side and have a tendency to foul.  It all depends on your engine and how it's tuned. If yours is higher compression and/or has been bored out and tends to run hotter, they might work. Otherwise, pony up and get the BF32's.

For the rear main seal, I used the FelPro and this video is a pretty good description of the process: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PTLUDVGoLAQ

What's the car #?  Perhaps they started with those and realized they could make 'em a lot cheaper. I'll differ to Mr. Gaines for further comment.

This will now become the car that everyone will look to be the definitive early 1965 GT350. It is a thing of beauty and one that I'm sure that our friend Jim Cowles is looking down on it with great pride. I don't mean to contribute to a "pick-apart party", only to make an observation that the clamps used to attach the positive battery cable to the underbody are incorrect.  They should be fabricated of simple sheet metal approximately 5/16 inch wide, in a "P" shape, the portion that makes contact with the cable dipped in black rubber. A hole is drilled in the center of where the two surfaces form the staff of the "P" which allows them to be pop-riveted to the underbody.
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The nice thing about the two piece is that, even if you have a seeper/leaker, it can be replaced in the car without removing the transmission.

Just got this notice: https://mailchi.mp/simeonemuseum/shelby2026?e=76f4b0cc85

Good advice above! FWIW, we're also with an EJ advisor. Dave Ramsey says it best: "Live like no one else so you can live like no one else."

Many years ago, I was searching for a readily-available replacement for that hose but it had to look like the original and I found that NAPA #1055 with bar code 29769302675 had everything but the white stripe. It came in a long length and, as I recall, it only requires a 3 inch piece so I still have a foot or so left. Send me a PM if you want me to cut you off a length....or you may be able to find it locally.