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#1

1966 Shelby GT350/GT350H / Re: Pertronix or dual points?

Last post by deathsled - May 30, 2024, 11:40:50 PM

[/quote]Answer this question first. Is your Pertronix powered at the coil or another place and if so where?
[/quote]

It has a positive and a negative wire that connect to the little coil terminals and then there is an extra positive wire plug that goes over the little positive post on the coil after the positive and negative wires are attached.  For ignition perhaps?   Then there is the larger coil wire that goes to the distributor that has the same 8 mm thickness as a spark plug wires. 

#2

1968 Shelby GT350/500/500KR / Re: 1968 Shelby center console...

Last post by Steve Meltzer - May 30, 2024, 11:36:49 PM

I started out using a nice microfiber towel, but I became a bit frustrated because it wanted to slide all over the place. Now, I'm using a very thin piece of rubber that I cut to fit, but it too, wants to slide around. At least it's better than nothing. If my wife were a "balabusta" (Yidddish for a complete homemaker, and often the ruling matriarch) I would have her make something with an elastic edging to tightly grip the console cover. Oh well, she's not.steve

#3

1968 Shelby GT350/500/500KR / Re: 1968 Shelby center console...

Last post by TOBKOB - May 30, 2024, 10:15:33 PM

[quoteDoes anyone make an attractive, yet protective, cover for that console pad? I find that I often rest my right forearm there, and would like to preserve and protect that imprint when driving. Any suggestions?][/quote]

I have kept a couple of towels in my cars for decades. I have been able to find ones that match the interior color and one stays on my console lid for the same reason as you say. I have towels in my Shelby, Wife's Lincoln, two Superdutys, Silverado, and all my Model A's. They help protect the lid and have come in handy after getting caught in a downpour several times.

TOB

#4

1966 Shelby GT350/GT350H / Re: Pertronix or dual points?

Last post by J_Speegle - May 30, 2024, 10:15:02 PM

I've tried Pertronix on a couple of my cars but have returned to the simple point system. Got tied of the car dying out on the side of the road once it warmed up - normally at about 9-15 miles from home. One never left the shop after restoration before I changed. On that one one time it would start then five minutes later it would. back and forth.

Your mileage may vary as you have certainly seen from others experience all over the web

#5

1968 Shelby GT350/500/500KR / Re: OIL FILL ON A 428 CJ

Last post by Steve Meltzer - May 30, 2024, 10:13:03 PM

NB:  I tried to correct my error of saying "5 1/2 quarts" when I meant "5 quarts". I got it just screwed up there. Thanks Bob. Steve

#6

1968 Shelby GT350/500/500KR / Re: OIL FILL ON A 428 CJ

Last post by Steve Meltzer - May 30, 2024, 10:06:29 PM

Well, my ex-wife often said I was lazy, but in this case, I just didn't know what to believe since I read all the different possibilities on the Internet; the TSB also confused me. And, as you can see from this particular thread, there were even varying opinions among the people who posted on the subject. Mine is a steel pan and thus 5 1/2 quart it is. Thanks again Steve.

#7

1968 Shelby GT350/500/500KR / Re: OIL FILL ON A 428 CJ

Last post by Bob Gaines - May 30, 2024, 09:59:15 PM

The aluminum Shelby pan on your GT500 should hold 7 quarts plus the one quart for the filter. So every oil change should require 8 quarts.

No factory 60's GT500 regardless of year used a aluminum oil pan.

If it is the Ford steel oil pan you need 5 quarts including the filter. The TSB only applies to 1969 - 70 engines.

Just to be crystal clear for those reading, that means 5 qt total . No extra oil is needed for the filter.

#8

1966 Shelby GT350/GT350H / Re: Pertronix or dual points?

Last post by S7MS427 - May 30, 2024, 09:50:57 PM

For my money, I think it is worth sticking with the Pertronix.  When I get back from the Ford show in Carlisle, I'll explain a sure-fire way to install the Pertronix that makes no modifications to the wiring in the car and still delivers a full 12 volts to the Pertronix module.

I've been using Pertronix for over 20 years on both my cars with no issues.

#9

1966 Shelby GT350/GT350H / Re: Pertronix or dual points?

Last post by Bob Gaines - May 30, 2024, 09:41:59 PM

I had a problem in paradise with the Shelby.  Once again, when the engine warms up and heads toward hot, it can cut off and the revs die, then I coast to a viable spot to pull over.  When the engine cools down it starts up again.  The second to last time that happened, I replaced the module inside the Pertronix distributor.  I just finished up again replacing the module today and also replaced the coil that appeared to have some corrosion inside it. The distributor is now on its third module.  The technique for installing the module is reminiscent of my 89 Saleen Mustang that I owned a while ago but sold.  It would quit anywhere and at any speed without warning.  I think there was a TSB on the problem but never elevated to the level of a recall.  The TFI (thick film ignition) module slapped on the side of the distributor on the 89 Mustangs can go bad and then the new replacement needs some dielectric grease to help it work before it is bolted on.  It also had a stator in it.  (Not sure if dual point ignition has a stator but I will look it up.)  The Pertronix requires the same thing.  Dielectric grease then bolt the little thing down inside the distributor as opposed to the side as in the late 80s application, and button up the distributor once you put the rotor back on.  I did some research on YouTube regarding Pertronix issues and the comments sections were replete with commentary about how their engines would cut out while driving.  Same problem I had.  Seems to be gone now.  I fiddled with the distributor and turned it clockwise until it fired up then locked it down.  I have not thrown a timing gun on it but seems okay for the time being.  The consensus with a number of Pertronix guys was that they were done with Pertronix and went back to points.  I think I may be reaching a similar boiling "point."  I understand that Ford distributors that would be period correct are as rare as they are expensive.  Neither Autolite nor Motorcraft would be correct.  But then again, the engine is an 86 302 roller rocker engine donated to the car by my father.  It apparently came out of a drag car.  Runs pretty strong.  Go back to a dual points setup or deal with Petronix issues?  Am I exchanging one set of problems for a different set?  Which set of problems is more tolerable?  I hate driving with the sword of Damocles hanging over me that the engine could quit at any moment no matter where or when.  I understand points need tweaking or replacement every 5,000 miles but they can be serviced at the side of the road if they go bad.  Are points as risky while driving?  Is there some advance notice or inspection that can preempt such issues as quitting?

Answer this question first. Is your Pertronix powered at the coil or another place and if so where?

#10

1968 Shelby GT350/500/500KR / Re: OIL FILL ON A 428 CJ

Last post by Bob Gaines - May 30, 2024, 09:38:08 PM

 For future reference to save time start first with the owners manual.   Page 55 in this case.