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The best jacking points using two separate floor jacks for the front end

Started by deathsled, September 06, 2025, 09:00:20 PM

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deathsled

I am finally getting into taking off the equalizer bar and diagnosing the problem with shifting.  I have reason to believe the bar has bent.  I have two floor jacks and two 6-ton jack stands.  What is the best spot to place the floor jacks to lift and then put jack stands in place?  I have an idea where they go but don't want to corrupt the topic with my own conceivably ridiculous input.  (And I did a search on the Forum before posting but only found a topic where a four-post lift was used.)
"Low she sits on five spoke wheels
Small block eight so live she feels
There she's parked beside the curb
Engine revving to disturb
She's the princess from his past
Red paint gold stripes damned she's fast"

FL SAAC

Good day fellow shade tree technician (they dont like to be called mechanics today, techs, techs sometimes I think they are ticks as they over charge you and suck your blood lmao)

Follow my exciting guidelines and yes I know someone, somewhere, a self proclaimed TECH will criticize this procedure, but it's what we do with our simple tools.

Most importantly enjoy !

Jack the car up using the frame  but then place the jack stands  on the front frame just ahead of where the lower A arm attaches to the frame.

This keeps the weight of the car were it normally would be when the car is on the ground

I like to have the front wheels also on ramps as an added measure of safety.

Make sure its anchored down and unshakeable.

Also think what tools and "stuff" you really need and them have all near by you.

 It's a pain to get down and up - up and down chasing tools you need.

Remember if you die you can't work or drive it anymore

Be safe and best of luck in you endeavors

P. S. nice pick for a book cover. Yiur thoughts?
When you arise in the morning, think of what a precious privilege it is to be alive to breathe, to think, to enjoy, to love.

Home of the Amazing Hertz 3+1 Musketeers

I have all UNGOLD cars

Not a SHELBY expert

Imitation is the sincerest form of flattery that mediocrity can pay to greatness.

Bob Gaines

Watch the video on where to jack up and where to best but jack stands. This the way that myself and the vast majority do it.    https://youtu.be/HcH4D2RjaKM
Bob Gaines,Shelby Enthusiast, Shelby Collector , Shelby Concours judge SAAC,MCA,Mid America Shelby

JWH

Bob, that video is very helpful. Thanks for posting.
On a related topic, I am due for new Jack Stands. Any recommendations? In the video, they use Jack Stands where the top of the Jack Stand is "V" shaped. Is there a quality jack stand that has a flat top? It seems the "V" shape would mar or maybe even indent where it contacts the car but maybe not? A flat top would seem to distribute the weight over a larger area.

roddster

I use a 6 inch piece of 2X4 on top of the Jack stand. At the forward corner of the frame out by the bumper brackets.
 But, most of the work will be from the engine compartment side.

JohnSlack

Quote from: FL SAAC on September 07, 2025, 07:46:29 AMGood day fellow shade tree technician (they dont like to be called mechanics today, techs, techs sometimes I think they are ticks as they over charge you and suck your blood lmao)

Follow my exciting guidelines and yes I know someone, somewhere, a self proclaimed TECH will criticize this procedure, but it's what we do with our simple tools.

Most importantly enjoy !

Jack the car up using the frame  but then place the jack stands  on the front frame just ahead of where the lower A arm attaches to the frame.

This keeps the weight of the car were it normally would be when the car is on the ground

I like to have the front wheels also on ramps as an added measure of safety.

Make sure its anchored down and unshakeable.

Also think what tools and "stuff" you really need and them have all near by you.

 It's a pain to get down and up - up and down chasing tools you need.

Remember if you die you can't work or drive it anymore

Be safe and best of luck in you endeavors

P. S. nice pick for a book cover. Yiur thoughts?

"Good day fellow shade tree technician (they dont like to be called mechanics today, techs, techs sometimes I think they are ticks as they over charge you and suck your blood lmao)"

Actually you have that incorrect, today's "technicians" are really parts exchangers. They analyze the situation with extremely expensive equipment because today's cars have really high tech equipment. They go through hours of training and retraining as software is updated to figure out which parts need exchanged. They are not allowed by the manufacturer or the dealership to be mechanical.

Mechanics typically don't like to have a technician referred to as a mechanic, because in most cases the technician is not a mechanic.

Just like most machinists are mechanics, machinists don't like to be lumped in with the mechanics because they also are a higher skilled level.

If you don't want to pay the "tick" who is "overcharging" you then buy the equipment, to do the job. Take the classes to do the job. You don't need to get actually hired to work on other people's cars, that may be inconvenient, or you may find that after you have sold all your toys to afford the equipment and classes it was simpler just to quietly pay the "tick" because you were not able to achieve the level of the technicians you look down your nose at.

edd1e22

Quote from: Bob Gaines on September 07, 2025, 10:51:49 AMWatch the video on where to jack up and where to best but jack stands. This the way that myself and the vast majority do it.    https://youtu.be/HcH4D2RjaKM

Bob, I chatted with a mustang/shelby restoration guy and he stated that I should jack up at the notches in the pinch weld as that's the factory designated location. He said if I were to use jackstands, I should put a 2x6 under the frame rails to prevent damage and crushing.
6S1169

shelbymann1970

Bob's link to the CJ Pony parts video is the way I've been doing it since 1978.
Shelby owner since 1984
SAAC member since 1990
1970 GT350 4 speed(owned since 1985).
  MCA gold 2003(not anymore)
1969 Mach1 428SCJ 4 speed R-code (owned since 2013)
"2nd" owner of 68 GT500 #1626

Coralsnake

If you do it at the pinch welds, there is a likelyhood you will damage the floor pan
Shelby Historian. Check out theCoralsnake.com

I'm looking for 9F02M480004. Have you seen it?

edd1e22

Quote from: Coralsnake on September 07, 2025, 01:22:40 PMIf you do it at the pinch welds, there is a likelyhood you will damage the floor pan

There is a notch at the pinch welds where the factory jack is supposed to go and that was the spot he pointed at
6S1169

s2ms

Do have to admit, every time I use the engine cross brace to jack up the front, it makes me a little nervous to see the brace flex with the original T-pan just above it.
Dave - 6S1757

Coralsnake

The problem is that is specifically designed for the factory scissors jack.

Any other jack is going to crush the pinch weld and the floor if it doesnt have the correctly designed lifting point

I have restored dozens of these cars and seen the damage first hand
Shelby Historian. Check out theCoralsnake.com

I'm looking for 9F02M480004. Have you seen it?

TA Coupe

Do a google search for pinch weld protectors for jacks and jack stands, and you will find numerous products to protect your car. Amazon has dozens of them in different styles and shapes and sizes. Easy peasy lemon squeezy😻 Harbor Freight also sells various ones to protect your car.

  Roy
If it starts it's streetable.
Overkill is just enough.

Bob Gaines

Quote from: edd1e22 on September 07, 2025, 01:08:44 PM
Quote from: Bob Gaines on September 07, 2025, 10:51:49 AMWatch the video on where to jack up and where to best but jack stands. This the way that myself and the vast majority do it.    https://youtu.be/HcH4D2RjaKM

Bob, I chatted with a mustang/shelby restoration guy and he stated that I should jack up at the notches in the pinch weld as that's the factory designated location. He said if I were to use jackstands, I should put a 2x6 under the frame rails to prevent damage and crushing.
Ether your restoration shop is misinformed or you took their instructions out of context. If jacking up only one side you could use the notch in the pinch weld but then you would have to use the worthless scissor jack . If you lift it there with the floor jack you will bend/damage the pinch weld. I have a ebay bought hard plastic puck with a groove in the center to accept the pinch weld edge that you place on the floor jack. Even with the puck pinch weld adapter I typically lift from the frame rail where it stops at the wheel opening if lifting only one side . If lifting both sides I and the majority of other knowledgeable Mustang enthusiast lift the front from the crossmember. The crossmember is plenty sturdy to lift the car.     
Bob Gaines,Shelby Enthusiast, Shelby Collector , Shelby Concours judge SAAC,MCA,Mid America Shelby

Bob Gaines

 I have used the cross member balancing technique to lift the front for jack stand placement like many of us have used for years but after a near slipping disaster I decided to come up with a surer way. I welded up a steel cross member lifting fixture out of scrap I had laying around. Basically it is a 3 inch length of angle iron that is set on its spine to form a Vee to cradle the cross member. I glued some rubber mat (cut trash floor mat or similar) to help keep from slipping inside the Vee. It is cut 3 inches long . I made a 3 inch long piece of 2 pieces of angle to form a channel to support the sides of the Vee so that it would not move. The flat bottom of the channel sits on the floor jack pad . When it lifts there is no chance of slipping off the cross member like when balanced on the jack pad. I would show a picture but I am embarrassed of my poor welding.  ::)
Bob Gaines,Shelby Enthusiast, Shelby Collector , Shelby Concours judge SAAC,MCA,Mid America Shelby