News:

SAAC Member Badges are NOW available. Make your request through https://saac.wildapricot.org  to validate membership.

Main Menu

The best jacking points using two separate floor jacks for the front end

Started by deathsled, September 06, 2025, 09:00:20 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

TA Coupe

You can also buy one of these. It goes from frame rail to frame rail for lifting your car with a Jack.
Steel Floor Jack Cross Beam https://share.google/7xvOoHo2V0kHten9d

     Roy
If it starts it's streetable.
Overkill is just enough.

deathsled

I jacked up the car on both sides using two separate floor jacks doing a few increments on each side back and forth to even things out. Then I was able to fit 2 and a quarter ton mini stands under the frame rails (not resting them on the rails but left like an inch space on either side as backup in case the floor jacks failed then put a 6 ton jack stand under the Lakewood bell housing. Then I got underneath. See photos attached.  I got the nut off of the top of the Z bar and saw how it worked underneath with that adjustable needle that pushes on some bracket presumably to lift the spinning gears off of each other to shift to another gear before they mesh again. I could not readily access the nut that holds the Z bar in place thinking I might need a box wrench with a deep offset to do it which I do not have.  I did see how clean the floors are and know where to access the seat nuts to put the correct types on the seats. (Wrong ones are on there now.) I also spotted why the driver's side exhaust sits lower than the passenger. The pipe had broke at the flange where it connects to the tri Y headers. I had it fixed a while back with a couple of welds to hold it back up but the welder pushed it up a bit too high at the flange which lowered the exhaust where it exits.  I think the damage occurred driving out of MCACN when I went down a cement dip inside the convention center that connects from the side floor to the main floor.  I heard an ominous scrape from the undercarriage. My car sits low with the Arning drop combined with one inch dropped 475 pound lowering springs in the front along with 1 inch aluminum lowering blocks in the back from Cobra Automotive. Installed all of the foregoing myself proud to say, but going to pass on doing the Z bar.   I'll just buy another pair of exhaust and put them on. Looks like a bolt on bolt off item. I also spotted a small drip at the square headed bolt on the Ford Toploader. I need to look into that as well. Maybe swap out the fluid. I have a recollection I topped it up a long time ago from a plug on the side of the transmission that has a female square headed plug bolt. I am tapping out on the Z bar. But I will handle the other issues myself. As a further addendum, I used chocks for both rear tires and two hockey pucks, one for each floor jack saddle and microfiber towels for the jack stands.
"Low she sits on five spoke wheels
Small block eight so live she feels
There she's parked beside the curb
Engine revving to disturb
She's the princess from his past
Red paint gold stripes damned she's fast"

FL SAAC

Quote from: deathsled on September 07, 2025, 09:37:57 PMI jacked up the car on both sides using two separate floor jacks doing a few increments on each side back and forth to even things out. Then I was able to fit 2 and a quarter ton mini stands under the frame rails (not resting them on the rails but left like an inch space on either side as backup in case the floor jacks failed then put a 6 ton jack stand under the Lakewood bell housing. Then I got underneath. See photos attached.  I got the nut off of the top of the Z bar and saw how it worked underneath with that adjustable needle that pushes on some bracket presumably to lift the spinning gears off of each other to shift to another gear before they mesh again. I could not readily access the nut that holds the Z bar in place thinking I might need a box wrench with a deep offset to do it which I do not have.  I did see how clean the floors are and know where to access the seat nuts to put the correct types on the seats. (Wrong ones are on there now.) I also spotted why the driver's side exhaust sits lower than the passenger. The pipe had broke at the flange where it connects to the tri Y headers. I had it fixed a while back with a couple of welds to hold it back up but the welder pushed it up a bit too high at the flange which lowered the exhaust where it exits.  I think the damage occurred driving out of MCACN when I went down a cement dip inside the convention center that connects from the side floor to the main floor.  I heard an ominous scrape from the undercarriage. My car sits low with the Arning drop combined with one inch dropped 475 pound lowering springs in the front along with 1 inch aluminum lowering blocks in the back from Cobra Automotive. Installed all of the foregoing myself proud to say, but going to pass on doing the Z bar.   I'll just buy another pair of exhaust and put them on. Looks like a bolt on bolt off item. I also spotted a small drip at the square headed bolt on the Ford Toploader. I need to look into that as well. Maybe swap out the fluid. I have a recollection I topped it up a long time ago from a plug on the side of the transmission that has a female square headed plug bolt. I am tapping out on the Z bar. But I will handle the other issues myself. As a further addendum, I used chocks for both rear tires and two hockey pucks, one for each floor jack saddle and microfiber towels for the jack stands.


Big plus one on that!
When you arise in the morning, think of what a precious privilege it is to be alive to breathe, to think, to enjoy, to love.

Home of the Amazing Hertz 3+1 Musketeers

I have all UNGOLD cars

Not a SHELBY expert

Imitation is the sincerest form of flattery that mediocrity can pay to greatness.