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KR Horn...another NewB question

Started by Steve Meltzer, December 11, 2023, 10:12:02 AM

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Steve Meltzer

Hey Lincoln Tech, I was trying to take a shortcut! Does the centerpiece with the faux wood trim just pull off or put a plastic trim remover underneath?  I don't wanna break it. I'm sure you're right: the steering wheel needs to come off. Thanks, Steve

Lincoln tech

Do NOT play with the woodgrain insert on top , there is 2 screws in the back of the wheel ( take them out ) and the whole pad with come off . Take a look at this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GT_6_g5bPM4

Steve Meltzer


Steve Meltzer

Lincoln Tech ...thanks again for the link to the video, which was most useful. I took the horn off the steering column, but did not really need to remove the steering wheel per se. Sanded and cleaned up the contacts and everything seems to work great now. Looking for one of the two screws that hold the trim piece in the center and I will be completely done. (No, I didn't lose it. It was not there when I removed the centerpiece!) Thanks again, Steve.

Lincoln tech



shelbydoug

Hey. Thanks to this thread, I took my four horns apart.

I learned quite a bit about making them work. All except for one. As they say, there is always one in every bunch!

They are very crude little devices. Even so, you SHOULD NOT hit them with a hammer to get even with them.

Ironically enough, I found that really the key element to making them work is the tone set screw. Aparently it corrodes and looses continuity?

That makes sense about some comments about resetting that screw to make them work.

If these things weren't date coded and original to the two cars I wouldn't have bothered. There must be around $200 worth of my own labor involed with each one?

Just for spite I am going to refuse to pay myself for my time. So, HO, HO, HO, Merry Christmas to me! ;)
68 GT350 Lives Matter!

Bob Gaines

Quote from: Steve Meltzer on December 19, 2023, 09:46:17 AM
Lincoln Tech ...thanks again for the link to the video, which was most useful. I took the horn off the steering column, but did not really need to remove the steering wheel per se. Sanded and cleaned up the contacts and everything seems to work great now. Looking for one of the two screws that hold the trim piece in the center and I will be completely done. (No, I didn't lose it. It was not there when I removed the centerpiece!) Thanks again, Steve.
the original screws are a special extra course thread if that helps identification from a pile of screws.
Bob Gaines,Shelby Enthusiast, Shelby Collector , Shelby Concours judge SAAC,MCA,Mid America Shelby

Bob Gaines

#38
 I have come to the conclusion all things being equal that finding still prevalent work horns of a given year as donors (typically under a hundred dollars for a pair) makes the most sense compared to rebuilding and its issues when you consider time ,stress and money . If those things don't matter or you don't know how to source used horns then that is a different matter. This is especially so on the 65/66 horns that don't have metal stamped date codes. A little less so on the lightly metal stamped date coded later ones. As I said my conclusion .Others may come to a different one.
Bob Gaines,Shelby Enthusiast, Shelby Collector , Shelby Concours judge SAAC,MCA,Mid America Shelby

shelbydoug

Quote from: Bob Gaines on December 19, 2023, 01:14:30 PM
I have come to the conclusion all things being equal that finding still prevalent work horns of a given year as donors (typically under a hundred dollars for a pair) makes the most sense compared to rebuilding and its issues when you consider time ,stress and money . If those things don't matter or you don't know how to source used horns then that is a different matter. This is especially so on the 65/66 horns that don't have metal stamped date codes. A little less so on the lightly metal stamped date coded later ones. As I said my conclusion .Others may come to a different one.

It is a good conclusion esspecially if you have rebuilt, repaired or tried too on an existing set.

I do think that it is essentially an age issue with the working components contained in the horns?

As such EVEN IF you were actually able to find a working original set now, I suspect that they will not stay working for very much longer?

So really it comes down to how original do want you car to be and how dedicated are you to get it there? It is still easy to say but getting more difficult daily.

It isn't a bad idea to know how to service the horns. I think there are many things that do not make sense financially to do but it IS satisfying to have "restored" these things. How superficial that is depends on the person in charge making those decisions. No one ever claimed that this stuff made any sense to pursue?
68 GT350 Lives Matter!

Bob Gaines

My post was intended to bring light to the realities of rebuilding horns vs. alternatives so that a newer enthusiast or others not familiar (don't like the term newbie much) knows what they are getting into so that they can make a informed decision on what is best for them.
Bob Gaines,Shelby Enthusiast, Shelby Collector , Shelby Concours judge SAAC,MCA,Mid America Shelby

shelbymann1970

Quote from: shelbydoug on December 19, 2023, 02:07:11 PM
Quote from: Bob Gaines on December 19, 2023, 01:14:30 PM
I have come to the conclusion all things being equal that finding still prevalent work horns of a given year as donors (typically under a hundred dollars for a pair) makes the most sense compared to rebuilding and its issues when you consider time ,stress and money . If those things don't matter or you don't know how to source used horns then that is a different matter. This is especially so on the 65/66 horns that don't have metal stamped date codes. A little less so on the lightly metal stamped date coded later ones. As I said my conclusion .Others may come to a different one.

It is a good conclusion esspecially if you have rebuilt, repaired or tried too on an existing set.

I do think that it is essentially an age issue with the working components contained in the horns?

As such EVEN IF you were actually able to find a working original set now, I suspect that they will not stay working for very much longer?

So really it comes down to how original do want you car to be and how dedicated are you to get it there? It is still easy to say but getting more difficult daily.

It isn't a bad idea to know how to service the horns. I think there are many things that do not make sense financially to do but it IS satisfying to have "restored" these things. How superficial that is depends on the person in charge making those decisions. No one ever claimed that this stuff made any sense to pursue?
Well lets see, on my Vert my horns have worked ever since I bought the car in 1985. They survived me blasting and repainting them more than once. I use my "used to be" NOS steering wheel that I installed a new rimblow switch in it over 20 years ago to power them and they still work great. I have before gotten horns to work by playing with the screw on the side. I also have bare metal to metal contact with my horns to my core support. So I don't think after 54 years my horns will quit working soon and if they do then it's your fault!  ;)
Shelby owner since 1984
SAAC member since 1990
1970 GT350 4 speed(owned since 1985).
  MCA gold 2003(not anymore)
1969 Mach1 428SCJ 4 speed R-code (owned since 2013)
"2nd" owner of 68 GT500 #1626

shelbydoug

#42
Quote from: shelbymann1970 on December 20, 2023, 06:52:31 AM
Quote from: shelbydoug on December 19, 2023, 02:07:11 PM
Quote from: Bob Gaines on December 19, 2023, 01:14:30 PM
I have come to the conclusion all things being equal that finding still prevalent work horns of a given year as donors (typically under a hundred dollars for a pair) makes the most sense compared to rebuilding and its issues when you consider time ,stress and money . If those things don't matter or you don't know how to source used horns then that is a different matter. This is especially so on the 65/66 horns that don't have metal stamped date codes. A little less so on the lightly metal stamped date coded later ones. As I said my conclusion .Others may come to a different one.

It is a good conclusion esspecially if you have rebuilt, repaired or tried too on an existing set.

I do think that it is essentially an age issue with the working components contained in the horns?

As such EVEN IF you were actually able to find a working original set now, I suspect that they will not stay working for very much longer?

So really it comes down to how original do want you car to be and how dedicated are you to get it there? It is still easy to say but getting more difficult daily.

It isn't a bad idea to know how to service the horns. I think there are many things that do not make sense financially to do but it IS satisfying to have "restored" these things. How superficial that is depends on the person in charge making those decisions. No one ever claimed that this stuff made any sense to pursue?
Well lets see, on my Vert my horns have worked ever since I bought the car in 1985. They survived me blasting and repainting them more than once. I use my "used to be" NOS steering wheel that I installed a new rimblow switch in it over 20 years ago to power them and they still work great. I have before gotten horns to work by playing with the screw on the side. I also have bare metal to metal contact with my horns to my core support. So I don't think after 54 years my horns will quit working soon and if they do then it's your fault!  ;)

It will be nice for you if you are correct. There is no big money involved so I don't think "Vegas" will write book on it?


Granted I have only seen a very small sample recently of my four. What I observed is that all four showed internal symptoms of various levels of corrosion that was affecting the operation.

Those conditions could ONLY be corrected by opening the horns and cleaning them.



To my knowledge, there has never been a published study done by a major investigative corporation like Rand that will positively determine the best course of action on maintenance, repair or service of 1965- 1970 Ford or Corvette horns.

I of course may be mistaken since I so often am. I, just like Mr.Gaines are sharing my experiences with the group with the thoughts that it is for the greater good.



This is of course all up to the individual to decide the best course of action or if need be to come here and just yell "Tripe". It's whatever you want to do about it here Dude.  ;)
68 GT350 Lives Matter!

shelbymann1970

Doug, I'm just messing around on the comment as I'm lucky my horns still work. I think while I live in an environment of corrosion(Mich in the midwest) my horns have not quit working. Maybe my car cover has helped. Like I said I got a lot of horns sitting around I have not tried yet and the ones on my New Jersey Mach1 don't work but have not even tried to check out(a button on the lower instrument panel for the horns) if it is at the horns or the button that is the problem.
Shelby owner since 1984
SAAC member since 1990
1970 GT350 4 speed(owned since 1985).
  MCA gold 2003(not anymore)
1969 Mach1 428SCJ 4 speed R-code (owned since 2013)
"2nd" owner of 68 GT500 #1626

shelbydoug

#44
Well there is a position taken here by some that I have often observed. It defends the perspective that an argument is not an argument. Then continues on for pages and pages and pages for no apparent reasons?

I'm not pointing fingers at anyone in particular here, but I have privately noted who is highly likely to be in the middle of it, seemingly stirring the pot for no apparent reason other then to amuse themselves? Some of those characteristics are described as belonging to a Troll?

Secret observation is likely just another quirk of mine I suppose? Few care what I think so I don't often mention this.
68 GT350 Lives Matter!