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1967 GT500 which engine would you put in and why?

Started by Kent, October 17, 2022, 04:39:33 PM

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Blackcar

Doug, the headers I posted are for a set of B351 heads both sides can be removed in 45 minutes also the bottoms of the collectors are above the bottom of the bell housing.

Side-Oilers

Back to the original question:  Yes, in our cars, stock-correct will almost always bring more $ than modified. 

But, to me, there's more to it than $.  I have owned about 100 cars in my life, about 75 of which were classics in every condition from a basket case bb Vette to several concours near-perfect cars of many makes. I'm not a car flipper, and I rarely make money on a sale. So my advice comes not from what will it be worth at the end, but how do you want it to be at the end.

But, this only applies to me and people like me, who want "a bit better than stock performing" performance car.  As had been correctly stated on the forum dozens of times, the stock Shelbys felt quick to us back in the day because, compared to most of the cars we'd see (a million Mustangs sold by end of 1966) we're not all that quick.  Most things today will kick the performance azz of most anything from "back in the day" when comparing straight apples-to-apples. 

How many of us "back in the day" boasted about having a stock car?  Pretty much no one.  We worked 2 or 3 crappy jobs in high school, college, so we'd have the $ to spend to make our cars quicker than stock. 

I'm still of that mindset. A street/track Shelby with 50% more power, 100% better handling, and  150% better braking, is what I love today (keeping a Day Two vintage look) and what I get the most fun from. Because now it's become the car that in my memory from being a car-crazed kid/teenager I dreamed of.  I built my KR (its original engine went kablooey long before I bought it in '82) with an all aluminum Shelby/Denbeste side-oiler, 468 cubes, hyd roller, and so forth. Idled kackly and went like hell, but also had well-sorted city drivability so no overheating, etc. I've had it on Willow and it was great. Then I drove it the 200+ miles home.  That's how I like a classic performance car.

Remember those nights cruising the main drag in town? Mine was Van Nuys Bl, but the story was similar most everywhere:  Stock sucked.  In performance and image. (Unless your stock vehicle was a Cobra. But how often did we ever see one of those at the street races?  Never.)

Do you also remember when someone would show up in a brand new whatever? The first question was always: What are you going to do first? Wheels/shifter/exhaust and then engine mods was a typical answer.

Not trying to start anything here. To each his hard-earned own. But for me, I've never had a concours car or perfect trailer queen that I really enjoyed. My screen name should be "Mister Day Two."
Current:
2006 FGT, Tungsten. Whipple, HRE 20s, Ohlin coil-overs. Top Speed Certified 210.7 mph.

Kirkham Cobra 427.  482-inch aluminum side-oiler. Tremec 5-spd.

Previous:
1968 GT500KR #2575 (1982-2022)
1970 Ranchero GT 429
1969 LTD Country Squire 429
1963 T-Bird Sport Roadster
1957 T-Bird E-model

Blackcar

Quote from: shelbydoug on October 22, 2022, 03:43:47 PM
Quote from: Blackcar on October 22, 2022, 12:49:10 PM
Doug, the headers I posted are for a set of B351 heads both sides can be removed in 45 minutes also the bottoms of the collectors are above the bottom of the bell housing.

The A, B351 and C302 heads all mount the headers the same. The port sizes are different though.

Interesting header configuration that you have. Which year are they designed to fit and who made them?


I only saw one set of the Motorsport "high port heads" in a 65 Mustang chassis. Probably were A3's considering the date? It was an R model of all things and the owner had removed the original shock towers and installed a 67 set.
He was wrestling to make headers fit and this was before JBA decided to make a few sets to fit the set up although I can't swear that JBA's would fit a 65-6 chassis, just a 67-8.


No doubt that considering the availability of 331/347 kits now, a smarter set up to run would be a Boss 302 block with those heads and it would go a long way to solving many issues? For one thing, an 8.0 inch v 9.2 inch deck block so that helps IMMENSELY.

As I recall the 351-c block is about 35 pounds heavier then a 302 block and you feel that in the handling of the car.


In my 68 GT350, I'm running AFR 185 Windsor heads with a C60A 2x4 Holley intake, 302 block/347 cubes. Those heads have better flow numbers then stock B2 heads do.

So for me I created a perfect animal that is about 100 pounds lighter then a 351-c is and has enough power for me.
They were fit to a 68 Mustang built on the car by Kooks before they left Long Island to go to NC.

427heaven

This car has an even more radical leave it alone following, so the easiest solution is to have the stocker when you go sell it, and the FUN engine to enjoy it with! After all what fun is a car that never gets driven!!!

98SVT - was 06GT

Quote from: 427heaven on November 16, 2022, 08:03:16 PM
This car has an even more radical leave it alone following, so the easiest solution is to have the stocker when you go sell it, and the FUN engine to enjoy it with! After all what fun is a car that never gets driven!!!

I had a 63 Roadster - You even get to enjoy rear drum brakes and pretty poor handling too.
Previous owner 6S843 - GT350H & 68 GT500 Convert #135.
Mine: GT1 Mustang, 1998 SVT 32V, 1929 Model A Coupe, Wife's: 2004 Tbird
Member since 1975 - priceless

427heaven

Since I dont own a COBRA..... The next best thing to get lost in the 60s is this for me, at least for the twisties.