SFM5s444 restoration is continuing

[doublemyv]

Thanks Jeff, I appreciate the details for the overall discussion.  In the SoCal desert area where I am, the can of  3M spray adhesive ( headliner contact type of adhesive ) is dry to the touch in about 2 days.  It dries to a clear or mostly clear look.   
   Are you thinking I might use just the adhesive on the painted firewall to replicate the OEM San Jose look ?  And then let it dry to a nearly clear look and just call it a day ?     Thanks, Mark

[J_Speegle]

Thanks Jeff, I appreciate the details for the overall discussion.  In the SoCal desert area where I am, the can of  3M spray adhesive ( headliner contact type of adhesive ) is dry to the touch in about 2 days.  It dries to a clear or mostly clear look.   
   Are you thinking I might use just the adhesive on the painted firewall to replicate the OEM San Jose look ?  And then let it dry to a nearly clear look and just call it a day ?     Thanks, Mark

No I, at this point, don't thing it was clear or amber just using that commonly used product today to provide a reference to it staying tacky and collecting dust and dirt as it dried over the days following the original building of the car. It's always been interesting that Ford used the term adhesive to describe the product and not sealant. Have thought of a couple of possible ways to handle the adhesive next time I get a chance but not suggesting that we use your car as a test vehicle  

Is the spray sealant(s) your using not a true black? If one or more dry with a notably brown finish or two different colors I can understand the current need to over coat them and would suggest you stick with that at this point.

Simply looking to always better the results and make them more correct where we can, and the reason to bring it up. For some of us that's a challenge and enjoyable part of the "hobby"

[sg66]

Picking up on Bob's spray adhesive suggestion, I sprayed some yellow Gorilla Contact Adhesive Ultimate on a piece of metal with paint on it. There are 3 settings and the low pressure setting sprayed a 1" stripe that was easy to control and rotate direction, add layers etc. To turn it black, I first tried spraying black dye on immediately after spraying the adhesive. The results were ok but still saw some yellow. I went back later and warmed it up with a heat gun, not hot, and brushed on some more dye and let it sit until it was dry and then wiped off the dye with a wet paper towel. I ended up with black adhesive and no change to the paint.

I have some 3M body schutz for another project with a 7/32" spray tip. When I get the time, I will try dialing the pressure way down and or chilling it to see what it will do. 

I also ran into this on the 3M site, comments under the video have the product used. The spray pattern is a little wide but sure it could be adjusted. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=idlKnHMUy38

[doublemyv]

Oct. 8,2026 Update on #444.  I have been busy trying new tests for firewall " Connect the Dots " adhesive /sealer spray, and will have a post in the next day or two with results.  While I wait for test materials to dry and do the next step, I have been working on building out the dash components.  Here's where I am as of this afternoon, and it's going well so far.  Check out the photos and let me know if you have any suggestions.  Thanks, Mark

[CharlesTurner]

Looking good.

-Horn switch should have a chrome screw on bezel
-Headlight floor dimmer rubber pad was not normally used on coupes/fastbacks
-Courtesy light switches in door jambs should be off-white plastic

[J_Speegle]

I would disconnect the heater control - the one at the top of the case by the vent. Extend it all the way and soak that visible end in something like Evapo-rust, then oil the surface well and reinstall. You could remove the whole cable but think it might work doing it in place if you choose.

Guess the door hinge springs are not installed. Be careful with that and figure out to get them in place and how to get them to look as if they had been there all the time and painted body color.

The sheet metal bracket - top left when looking at the "door" was not originally painted black nor were the rivets. Bare steel bracket and looks like bright silver or aluminum rivets.




I guess that what ever (looks like black boot connected to a black wire with green tracer) is in front of the heater to the right is not part of the car but a light or something else.

All I picked up on for the moment. Will leave room for others.

Always something but looks like your doing a great job. Keep it up.

(edited to add picture)

[doublemyv]

Wow, you guys are good...  Thanks for the observations, and compelling me to make the car as right as possible. 
I do have the chrome bezel/nut for the horn switch, but it needs to be tapped to the correct thread pitch for that replacement switch.  It will happen.  I just received the white plastic door jamb switches for the courtesy lights, and will install.  I removed the rubber on the dimmer switch.  I can easily clean up the heater cable and will do so.  I have the door springs, they have been painted body color, and the local body shop that Jeff visited for me years ago will loan me their special door spring compressor tool to install the springs with no damage. The heater support bracket that is black was that way when I got the car, and while detailing the heater box, it was done so nice and evenly that it looked like San Jose painted it.  Yes, I will return it to bare steel and clean up the rivets to a natural finish.  The black boot/green wire has been re-routed and feeds the glove box light.  Today, I did more adhesive texture tests with a 6x6 panel painted low gloss firewall black, added a couple hoses, and simulated heater motor.  I am attaching 3 photos showing the test panel in direct sun, then on the workbench, and finally taped to the firewall with natural lighting.  I notice that the texture is getting very close to what I want ( i did a much larger spray out on cardboard pretending to connect the dots )  and the 3M Multi Surface Max Strength 90 adhesive has dried to a medium to dark gray when looking at the test panel with the human eye.  So, take a look and let me know if the color of the adhesive would be acceptable.  Thanks a million for all the help. Mark   

[Bob Gaines]

The texture looks great the color is not dark enough.

[doublemyv]

Thanks Bob, I will work on a darker color over the next few weeks.  Family stuff will prevent posts until the end of the month.  In the meantime, I need help on the horn switch.  I am posting a couple photos of the repro switch that I bought from Jim Cowles in 2010, and the chrome special nut I want to use in place of the plastic knurled nut that came with the switch.  I want to drill out the chrome nut/bezel and tap it to the correct pitch of the switch housing, but I can't find anything that matches up to the size and pitch of the switch housing.  The closest I can come up with is 12mm diameter x 1.0 metric pitch on the threads, and I think the thread pitch might even be .80 metric.  Does anyone out in forumland have experience with this type of switch, and can recommend what tap I need to get the chrome nut/bezel to work   By the way, the heater cable cleaned up nicely with Evaporust, and the paint came off the heater box bracket and rivets.   Also, I removed the dimmer switch rubber cover, and got the correct courtesy light switches for the door jambs. Thanks, and I'll be back on the forum by the end of this month.  Mark

[Bob Gaines]

I would check with Branda . They were selling a horn switch for 195.00 that is currently out of stock and maybe have a source for a bezel .