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Swapping automatic for a manual transmission?

Started by Brian350, July 21, 2026, 07:53:39 PM

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Brian350

Anybody here swap out an automatic transmission for a manual on a GT500?
You never know what's around the next bend in the road.

brandosaac

shouldnt be too dificult.

If you consider doing it and are looking for parts, I have a restored 69 clutch pedal assy , rebuilt big shaft toploader , and  possilby a 428 flywheel.
drop me a message if youd like to talk

98SVT - was 06GT

If you decide to do it you will need to drill the hole out in the firewall where the clutch shaft goes. An expensive fix if you ever decide to restore it for judging.
Previous owner 6S843 - GT350H & 68 GT500 Convert #135.
Mine: GT1 Mustang, 1998 SVT 32V, 1929 Model A Coupe, Wife's: 2004 Tbird
Member since 1975 - priceless

Brian350

Quote from: brandosaac on August 07, 2026, 07:12:28 PMshouldnt be too dificult.

If you consider doing it and are looking for parts, I have a restored 69 clutch pedal assy , rebuilt big shaft toploader , and  possilby a 428 flywheel.
drop me a message if youd like to talk

Thank you!
You never know what's around the next bend in the road.

Brian350

Quote from: 98SVT - was 06GT on August 07, 2026, 09:03:55 PMIf you decide to do it you will need to drill the hole out in the firewall where the clutch shaft goes. An expensive fix if you ever decide to restore it for judging.

I'm well past a "judging" car. Never really wanted one to begin with, so I'm more interested in making my GT550 what i want it to be regardless of anything else. Thanks for the input!
You never know what's around the next bend in the road.

Bob Gaines

Besides the pedal assembly ,clutch rod and equalizer bar there are other things that might surprise you when you add them up. The big input big output 4 speed trans will be pricey when you find one that is ready to go at 2000.00-2600.00. The 390 trans is much cheaper but will not take the abuse that the other will. There is a specific big block bellhousing that is designed for the 11.5 clutch and pressure plate needed is about 700.00-900.00. The earlier 66 390 style would be cheaper that is designed for a smaller clutch and pressure plate. There is a different clutch fork for the 428 vs.390 .The driveshaft is longer on a manual compared to an automatic so you will not be able to make that work. This plus all of the other supplemental hardware brackets etc. adds up to a substantial chunk of change. Also I believe I am being conservative with my used part numbers.
Bob Gaines,Shelby Enthusiast, Shelby Collector , Shelby Concours judge SAAC,MCA,Mid America Shelby

gt350shelb

Quote from: 98SVT - was 06GT on August 07, 2026, 09:03:55 PMIf you decide to do it you will need to drill the hole out in the firewall where the clutch shaft goes. An expensive fix if you ever decide to restore it for judging.
i see this as a next owner problem
Some where some one is driving their collector car for the last time but they don't know it . Drive your car every time like it could be the last memory of it .

98SVT - was 06GT

Quote from: gt350shelb on August 08, 2026, 07:38:58 PM
Quote from: 98SVT - was 06GT on August 07, 2026, 09:03:55 PMIf you decide to do it you will need to drill the hole out in the firewall where the clutch shaft goes. An expensive fix if you ever decide to restore it for judging.
i see this as a next owner problem
True - but the next buyer may reduce his offer if he needs to pay a shop and extra hour to repair the hole for  concours. I realize a couple hundred isn't a big hit but it all adds up when someone is looking for a car to restore vs a driver.
Since you are not looking for originality consider this - https://www.summitracing.com/parts/awr-cofo-m1ex?seid=srese1&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=1012069904&gclid=Cj0KCQjwp9vTBhCWARIsANaUrjv8jzz15PRjmgU9gGbqE_YXFyqpHbtWWvCyoVS-d9xKrPm-0qObhGYaAh17EALw_wcB
One thing that Bob missed in his parts list is the rearend. Automatics generally run a taller gear. If you want to retain the performance you'll need to go to a numerically higher gear - Early cars ran a 3.89 with the 4 speed and a 3.50 with the auto. The 5 speed will allow you to run even a 4.11 and still have acceptable revs while cruising down the road.
Previous owner 6S843 - GT350H & 68 GT500 Convert #135.
Mine: GT1 Mustang, 1998 SVT 32V, 1929 Model A Coupe, Wife's: 2004 Tbird
Member since 1975 - priceless

jimhyc

Quote from: 98SVT - was 06GT on August 08, 2026, 08:06:32 PM
Quote from: gt350shelb on August 08, 2026, 07:38:58 PM
Quote from: 98SVT - was 06GT on August 07, 2026, 09:03:55 PMIf you decide to do it you will need to drill the hole out in the firewall where the clutch shaft goes. An expensive fix if you ever decide to restore it for judging.
i see this as a next owner problem
True - but the next buyer may reduce his offer if he needs to pay a shop and extra hour to repair the hole for  concours. I realize a couple hundred isn't a big hit but it all adds up when someone is looking for a car to restore vs a driver.
Since you are not looking for originality consider this - https://www.summitracing.com/parts/awr-cofo-m1ex?seid=srese1&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=1012069904&gclid=Cj0KCQjwp9vTBhCWARIsANaUrjv8jzz15PRjmgU9gGbqE_YXFyqpHbtWWvCyoVS-d9xKrPm-0qObhGYaAh17EALw_wcB
One thing that Bob missed in his parts list is the rearend. Automatics generally run a taller gear. If you want to retain the performance you'll need to go to a numerically higher gear - Early cars ran a 3.89 with the 4 speed and a 3.50 with the auto. The 5 speed will allow you to run even a 4.11 and still have acceptable revs while cruising down the road.
Last fall I did a swap for a customer with a 67 S code Cougar with a Tremec from Hamlin Motorsport. Supposed to be a complete kit and bolt in. It still needed a few things and the crossmember needed some work to fit, but overall it went together well. Had to cut the shifter hole in the floor a little. A different handle would fit without trimming.
But what a different experience running it through the gears and 5th made it fantastic for cruising at 75-80. Nothing that couldn't be put back to original if you decided to do so. I'd just recommend keeping all the parts removed for the future.
1969 GT500
2005 Saleen S281
1973 MACH1 Q code
1967 Mustang
1965 Galaxie 500
1969 Thunderbird
1988 Turbo Coupe
1928 Pierce Arrow
1930 Pierce Arrow
Prior cars
1967 GT500
1970 GT500
1968 KR
1970 BOSS 429
Daytona Coupe, 427 Cobra - kits
1971 BOSS 351