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Leaf Spring Restoration Concours judging question

Started by Paulb, February 24, 2026, 09:01:39 PM

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Paulb

When restoring original springs for concours after bead blasting do they need to redone in the manganese phosphate finish, or do they accept another coating without a point deduction?

Bob Gaines

#1
Quote from: Paulb on February 24, 2026, 09:01:39 PMWhen restoring original springs for concours after bead blasting do they need to redone in the manganese phosphate finish, or do they accept another coating without a point deduction?
There are any number of ways to get the end look. The point is to get the look as close to the original as possible. How well you are able to replicate the spring steel finish will determine if there are points deducted or not.For example some people use gunblue to duplicate the look however you can use that product and apply it wrong or have bad product and it will not look right.
Bob Gaines,Shelby Enthusiast, Shelby Collector , Shelby Concours judge SAAC,MCA,Mid America Shelby

Paulb

Quote from: Bob Gaines on February 24, 2026, 09:06:04 PM
Quote from: Paulb on February 24, 2026, 09:01:39 PMWhen restoring original springs for concours after bead blasting do they need to redone in the manganese phosphate finish, or do they accept another coating without a point deduction?
There are any number of ways to get the end look. The point is to get the look as close to the original as possible. How well you are able to replicate the spring steel finish will determine if there are points deducted or not.
If I am reading between the lines, don't take a chance and find someone that can do the manganese phosphate dipping. I still think I will be ready for Jacksonville. I'm getting excited. The only way to find out what I have overlooked. Ok, I lied, I am more nervous than I am excited  ;D

J_Speegle

#3
Quote from: Paulb on February 24, 2026, 09:18:08 PMIf I am reading between the lines, don't take a chance and find someone that can do the manganese phosphate dipping. I still think I will be ready for Jacksonville. I'm getting excited. The only way to find out what I have overlooked. Ok, I lied, I am more nervous than I am excited  ;D

IMO take the comment as written. There are many paths to the goal. Investigate and choose the best for need. Originally they were not phosphated and the process if done incorrectly can mess up a set of springs through embrittlement. There are cold liquid products than can replicate the same heat treated oil quenched process used on them originally. Of course to the details correct you'll have to disassemble  since the clamps were not colored, heat treated or plated.

As in most related things and projects its a combination of a good product and the right technique. Since the springs are so long getting a consistent finish from one end to the other is one of the challenges
Jeff Speegle- Mustang & Shelby detail collector, ConcoursMustang.com mentor :) and SAAC Concours Advisor

Shane

I've had very good experience with gun blueing,FWIW.

roddster

Also, pay attention to those band/clamps.  Some years have round holes, some years don't.

Paulb

Quote from: roddster on March 12, 2026, 12:52:14 PMAlso, pay attention to those band/clamps.  Some years have round holes, some years don't.
Yea, I have been trying to get clarification on that. My Boss 429 has has square holes but my 70 Mach 1 428 SCJ car has round and they are the same part number and the part number and date are written differently.  I have read that it depends on who supplied the springs since they had a few different suppliers. I have even seen the part number stamped differently on OEM assembly line springs for which I also assume different suppliers. It impresses me how some of the Mustang Demigods on this forum keep it straight and the depth of their knowledge. I forget people's names 10 seconds after I meet them, let alone remembering that one bolt should have a phosphate finish and other zinc.

roddster

  I should also mention, sometimes it's an assembly plant thing.