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PRIMER QUESTION

Started by tesgt350, November 06, 2025, 10:14:55 AM

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tesgt350

About 40 Years ago I rescued a Car Show Icon from a Junk Yard.  It is a 1960 Ford Thunderbird like no other ever built.  Back in the Mid 60's this Car was highly modified for that time.  It was cut in half in Three Places and welded back together making it about 2.5 Feet Shorter which is why I call it "LITTLE BIRD".  When I rescued it, it was in Brown Primer as a rolling shell, no Drivetrain, no Interior, many Parts missing and the Wiring all cut up.  I got driving and even entered it into a couple Shows before I stupidly sold it back in the early 90's.  30 Years later I got it back rescuing it again, this time from a Field.  After 40 Years now, all the Body Work needs to be redone so, O need to strip the Car down and have it Blasted,  I keep hearing about a Primer that I can spray the Car with after blasting and then do the Body Work over it.  Any body know about that, used it?

Photo #1, Me working on it about 35 Years ago.  Photo #2 How the Car looks NOW.  Photo #3A full size 1960 Thunderbird.

Bill

Looks like a neat project, can't wait to see the progress.

Regardless of brand (70% of which are made in the same production facilities these days, then relabeled), you'll want a 2K epoxy primer, not an etch primer (good for spot repair, not suggested for overall) followed by a high build primer once bodywork has been accomplished. Welding, use the etch primer followed by a scuff/sanding, then a 2K epoxy primer on top of this. Do your regular bodywork (fillers and such), finish off with a high build primer, then sand again until you feel the panels are as smooth as you want them to be.


Bill
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HOW TO IDENTIFY A FORUM TROLL
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Quote from: tesgt350 on November 06, 2025, 10:14:55 AMAbout 40 Years ago I rescued a Car Show Icon from a Junk Yard.  It is a 1960 Ford Thunderbird like no other ever built.  Back in the Mid 60's this Car was highly modified for that time.  It was cut in half in Three Places and welded back together making it about 2.5 Feet Shorter which is why I call it "LITTLE BIRD".  When I rescued it, it was in Brown Primer as a rolling shell, no Drivetrain, no Interior, many Parts missing and the Wiring all cut up.  I got driving and even entered it into a couple Shows before I stupidly sold it back in the early 90's.  30 Years later I got it back rescuing it again, this time from a Field.  After 40 Years now, all the Body Work needs to be redone so, O need to strip the Car down and have it Blasted,  I keep hearing about a Primer that I can spray the Car with after blasting and then do the Body Work over it.  Any body know about that, used it?

Photo #1, Me working on it about 35 Years ago.  Photo #2 How the Car looks NOW.  Photo #3A full size 1960 Thunderbird.


First let us say that's one kool square bird !

On your question, we consulted with a very good and dear friend of ours "Toto Von Dutch" this is his reply via text:

The best primer after media blasting is an epoxy primer applied directly to the bare, clean metal for maximum adhesion and corrosion protection.

Before priming, ensure the surface is completely clean and dry, and consider using a pre-treatment product like a phosphoric acid-based metal conditioner or Direct-to-Metal (DTM) etch primer if you can't prime immediately or need to neutralize hidden rust.

Best of luck !
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Quote from: Bill on November 06, 2025, 11:01:22 AMLooks like a neat project, can't wait to see the progress.

Regardless of brand (70% of which are made in the same production facilities these days, then relabeled), you'll want a 2K epoxy primer, not an etch primer (good for spot repair, not suggested for overall) followed by a high build primer once bodywork has been accomplished. Welding, use the etch primer followed by a scuff/sanding, then a 2K epoxy primer on top of this. Do your regular bodywork (fillers and such), finish off with a high build primer, then sand again until you feel the panels are as smooth as you want them to be.


Bill

I agree with Bill, an expert in this field.

You would only need to use a phosphoric acid-based metal conditioner if you lived in a swamp (high relative humidity)... so floorada.


Always go with advice from an expert.
1968 GT500 Gold Concourse
1973 Cougar
1968 Mustang coupe
1966 Mustang 4 speed vert
1965 Mustang coupe
1968 Cougar
1968 Torino GT
1966 GT350H clone
Beware the emotional hemophiliac ...TROLL

shelbymann1970

What Bill said. He has owned businesses in this field.
Shelby owner since 1984
SAAC member since 1990
1970 GT350 4 speed(owned since 1985).
  MCA gold 2003(not anymore)
1969 Mach1 428SCJ 4 speed R-code (owned since 2013)
"2nd" owner of 68 GT500 #1626