Power Steering Cylinder Drop Bracket

[oldcanuck]

About ten years ago when I purchased my car, I noticed the power steering slave cylinder bushings were in bad shape on the drop bracket. Purchased a replacement bushing kit and installed with the front end in the air in my garage with no problem. I failed to notice, or know, that the bracket bolts should have been installed with lock washers.... so now, appx. 5,000 miles later, a couple of them loosened and twisted the bracket. Unfortunately I noticed this away from my garage, so I was forced to replace the bracket and related hardware with the front end on the ground.

This time around it was a little more difficult getting the rod end of the slave cylinder through the bushing hole of the new bracket far enough to get both retaining washers and bushings installed and compressed to be able to get the cotter pin through the castle/lock nut.

My question is, I know this is probably not the best way to install the bushings and lock nut on the rod end, but is this going to pose a problem with the power assist system..... and should I get the car home, get the front end in the air, and remove and re-install ?

I sure don't want to tear anything up now, or down the road.

You expertise would be appreciated.

[Royce Peterson]

The bracket needs to be welded as well as having bolts with lock washers securing it. If you buy a new bracket it needs to be bolted in place securely then welded all the way around to prevent it from coming loose.

[Bob Gaines]

The bracket needs to be welded as well as having bolts with lock washers securing it. If you buy a new bracket it needs to be bolted in place securely then welded all the way around to prevent it from coming loose.

+1 . I had one after bolting and welding as described break at the base of the bolt on plate the the slave bolts through. It wouldn't hurt to augment that area with some additional welding or even a small gusset too. Of course that was back when it was everyday ride.

[oldcanuck]

Thanks guys.... the new bracket is a lot more stout than the one twisted up..... and the weld is on both sides.

My question was regarding my field installation of the slave cylinder rod end bushings and rod end lock nut.

Thanks again.

[greekz]

I would get the front end up in the air and double check the torque and bushing installation just to be safe.

If you are talking about the drop down because of headers, my drop down bracket and bolts were installed 35 years ago and are have not loosened.  And my bracket is not welded.

[oldcanuck]

I would get the front end up in the air and double check the torque and bushing installation just to be safe.

Thank you.... good advise, as I was definitely leaning this way. I just hope I don't mess anything up driving it home. It's only about 5 miles, but some tight turns out here in the country.

[greekz]

I understand your concern.  One option would be a friend with a trailer or a tow company with a flat bed.  Peace of mind is priceless.

[roddster]

Gee, what is FL duhSAAC gonna advise??

[Bob Gaines]

Gee, what is FL duhSAAC gonna advise??

Typically what ever he can get from the internet AI bot.

[oldcanuck]

Thanks all..... the trip home was perfect with no surprises.

I'll get it up in the air the next day or so and R & I the cylinder rod connection just to be sure.

I'm still trying to figure out the MIA brake lights if anyone has an idea.

[greekz]

Glad to hear you made it home safely.

Brake lights:

I start with a jumper wire across the switch connector to isolate the brake light switch. If I get lights, it is the switch.  You may have already done this.

I believe the brake light circuit goes the turn signal switch.  If a bad turn signal switch, sometimes lightly moving the lever gets the brake lights to come on.  If so, could be the turn signal switch.

If you have done both of these, I do not know where to look next.  Best of luck!

[oldcanuck]

I found it.... while unraveling the old electrical tape covering on the tail light harnesses, I found that what looked to be a couple original connections that were weak and maybe intermittent.  Put it all back together, changed a couple of weak 1157s and everything worked well.

Thank you to all that responded.

[TA Coupe]

I found it.... while unraveling the old electrical tape covering on the tail light harnesses, I found that what looked to be a couple original connections that were weak and maybe intermittent.  Put it all back together, changed a couple of weak 1157s and everything worked well.

Thank you to all that responded.

I think you put this under the wrong post.

    Roy

[oldcanuck]

I think you put this under the wrong post.

Roy

Not if you look at the previous threads and responses.

[TA Coupe]

Sorry,I did not memorize or reread the entire post to see that. I was just going off the topic of the thread. In the mid-seventies, when I put headers on, nobody told me about the drop bracket. And as soon as I went to move the car, it pulled the bracket right out of the frame rail. That's when I found out about the drop brackets and put one on and did all kinds of stuff to make it stay in place. But eventually, it kept coming loose, and I had this one in the pictures made up. Never had another problem after that But now I have electric power steering so I don't have to worry about it anymore either.

     Roy