Ford engine paint

[FL SAAC]

Sounds good, going to check with our local Sherwin Williams to see if they carry

I care less about paint hue than how it looks after a few years.  Like everyone else that's dabbled in the hobby, historically, all I had access to was VHT.  Yeah, it looked "OK" for a year, maybe two.  After a fuel leak, oil staining, and typical heat, it looked like crap.

Fast forward, I own a machine tool company building enhance precision, gear cutting, machine tools. Machines run exclusively in high sulfur, chlorinated, cutting oil.  Same as screw machines.  Steel chips from elevated hardness alloy steel can be blue-hot. Machines are constantly "wrenched on," swapping fixtures and cutters.  Paint chips are not acceptable.

The ONLY paint we use is Polane B.  The durability is beyond impressive.  My side oiler was painted 25 years ago, and remains near perfect.  Same for the Boss 351C in my early Bronco.

Critical to media blast or professionally, oven bake to bright, clean metal, and use the specified, self-etching primer.  Lightly mist the primer vs. any build.  clean your gun immediately.  Consider the 3M PPS cup system for minimal product handling.  This stuff is an isocyanate.  I Use 3M 6001 mask filters in a well ventilated booth.

[gt350shelb]

Phil, DAR 13558 was what I always used but no one carries it anymore so i switched to ppg concept same number. That now is hard to find so i took my last bit of it and had it matched in UTECH line urethane. Best stuff I've ever used even better than DAR

Thanks Tim

[shelbydoug]

When it was available, PlastiKote 224 Ford Blue was an excellent match.  If you can find any new old stock, grab it!

For a rattle can I agree it was the closest I could find that matched what had been used at the Cleveland plant. For some of the other engine plants there were slightly better choices. Going to have to shake that can, if you find any, a lot after all this time and settling

A Google search shows some suppliers with it in stock.

I can say that the paint with hardener doesn't necessarily last any longer then the cans do.

The block is easy. The aluminum timing chain cover likes to flake off. The oil pan needs to be SANDBLASTED, not glass beaded to keep it from fish eying.

I used Duplicolor on the 67 GT500 and that came out good but is lighter then the later Cleveland plant color.

It's really a can of worms. A pick your poison thing. If you are a, "take no prisoners" person this is going to be much more painful for you to accept a solution.

[roddster]

  I' m surprised that in these responses that there has been no mention of the variation that humidity and temperature has at the time of application. So, of course there will be variation in the color.