Recent posts

#21

1967 Shelby GT350/500 / Re: Advice on Removing Brake B...

Last post by BryanT - Today at 02:18:50 PM

I replaced my master cylinder last year on my 67 GT500. I had to remove the export brace and valve cover but was able to replace the master cylinder without messing with the booster. It is tight at the shock tower.

#22

1966 Shelby GT350/GT350H / Re: Engine sees light

Last post by JD - Today at 02:10:30 PM

Well done, identify all the parts you can - date codes, numbers, stampings, etc.

#23

1967 Shelby GT350/500 / Re: Advice on Removing Brake B...

Last post by fastek - Today at 12:39:58 PM

Thanks that helps. So leave the M/C in place and remove that and the booster in one-piece?

#24

Wanted to Buy / Re: WTB, steering wheel wrap

Last post by TA Coupe - Today at 12:34:46 PM

Just happened to be on the Revs Institute website, when I ran across this picture of an original.

https://library.revsinstitute.org/brussels-motor-show/20604

        Roy

#25

1966 Shelby GT350/GT350H / Engine sees light

Last post by deathsled - Today at 12:31:27 PM

After decades hidden in a closet, I pulled my Hertz's original engine out. A friend pushed me to buy an engine stand and we went to Harbor Freight and I bought a Pittsburgh 1,000 pound stand for $100.00. We got it on the stand and I went looking through a bucket of bolts and he identified the original head bolts. He said the rocker nuts were not correct because there was an allen key screw in each of them that prevents the nuts from backing off once the lash (I believe it is called) is corrected. So we started adding things. The Cobra intake was restored by Jim Cowles of Shelby Parts and Restoration. Added the harmonic balancer. He also identified a special thick washer that is hipo specific for the balancer. Now it sits in my office space further nudging me to send the block out to do a build. Well, it's a start anyway.

#26

1967 Shelby GT350/500 / Re: Advice on Removing Brake B...

Last post by roddster - Today at 12:30:42 PM

It might come out past the valve cover, try that first.

 1) place some towels, absorber shop rags under the M/C
 2) disconnect the two brake lines, they will drip.  If you are lucky, you might be able to squeeze a
    block-off in each port. (sometimes)
 3) disconnect the vacuum hose, or, maybe pop out the check valve on the booster.
 4) inside near the steering column, remove the nuts that hold the booster in.
 5) on the firewall, remove the one bolt on the booster bracket.
 6) lift and juggle the assembly out.

 If you have to remove the valve cover, you might also have to remove the export brace,

#27

GT40 - Original/Mk V / Re: Paid a visit

Last post by roddster - Today at 12:21:56 PM

  Nice, who wouldn't like to have that sitting it their garage?

#28

Parts For Sale / Re: 1967 Magstars: Set of 4

Last post by Survivor - Today at 12:16:48 PM

Good to fair.  Some surface stuff on 2.  I can send some pics. w/ your email.  I've listed my email address above.

#29

Wanted to Buy / Re: Wanted: Gurney Westlake he...

Last post by pbf777 - Today at 12:09:50 PM

    Be careful, as apparently some of the later stuff, being or haven been, released after Gurney's ownership was that which he hadn't sold as it consisted of production "seconds"! 

    Or so the story goes.   

    Scott.

#30

1967 Shelby GT350/500 / Advice on Removing Brake Boost...

Last post by fastek - Today at 12:00:03 PM

Hey folks ..... looks like I'm up against the chore of removing the master cylinder and brake booster on my 67 Gt-500. Holy smokes there is like zero room in there to work at first glance. Any tips anyone can share that can help as my sanity gets tested? I'm assuming the valve cover needs to be removed at the very least. Thanks !!