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About ten years ago when I purchased my car, I noticed the power steering slave cylinder bushings were in bad shape on the drop bracket. Purchased a replacement bushing kit and installed with the front end in the air in my garage with no problem. I failed to notice, or know, that the bracket bolts should have been installed with lock washers.... so now, appx. 5,000 miles later, a couple of them loosened and twisted the bracket. Unfortunately I noticed this away from my garage, so I was forced to replace the bracket and related hardware with the front end on the ground.

This time around it was a little more difficult getting the rod end of the slave cylinder through the bushing hole of the new bracket far enough to get both retaining washers and bushings installed and compressed to be able to get the cotter pin through the castle/lock nut.

My question is, I know this is probably not the best way to install the bushings and lock nut on the rod end, but is this going to pose a problem with the power assist system..... and should I get the car home, get the front end in the air, and remove and re-install ?

I sure don't want to tear anything up now, or down the road.

You expertise would be appreciated.

Several posts with the same lengthy link by user "yermum".

I haven't clicked on any but seeing them everywhere this morning 8/30.

Scott Drake Generation I Conversion Kit # STL-13A366

Removed today from my 1967 GT-350 .

For all 1964 - 1970 Mustang based cars with incandescent 1157 tail light bulbs.

Kit includes LH and RH modules and respective plug in wire harnesses w/instructions.

$70.00 includes shipping to the lower 48.

Contact by PM and payment by PayPal F & F.

Thanks.

Noticed a slight drip on the left rear inside tire.

After disassembly it appears one side of my brake cylinder is the source.

My questions are;

Can I remove the wheel cylinder without disassembling the whole brake shoe(s) assembly ? It is a little tight in there.....

Are the wheel cylinders on a late '67 7/8" or 15/16" ?

Thanks in advance for any assistance.

Bob

Yesterday.... out for a nice fall cruise. All was going well.... running well on fresh 93 pure......good oil press and water temp.

On the way home I notice all of a sudden the water temp gauge goes down to nothing, then pulling into my driveway I hear a little hissss.... by the time I get out and open the hood, full on hissing and a little steam from the water valve on the passenger side of the firewall..... small puddle of coolant about the size of a basketball....

I assume after 56 years the old valve has given up......  Do these things wear out, and when is the best place to get a good replacement.... NPD ?

Thanks in advance.

While looking for something else in my 35mm archives.... I stumble across a brown envelope marked   AUGUST 1981 HISTORICS - SAAC 6

I'm no Dave Friedman, but a couple of these are pretty cool from back in the day.

Enjoy,

Bob

I was advised yesterday that 1966 and 1967 clutch support brackets have a 100% mortality rate. This old Ford mechanic said its not a matter of if, its a matter of when. He went on to say if your clutch pedal does not return all the way up and stops about an inch short, its not your return assist spring, its the support bracket. "They all fail".

Can someone enlighten me on this ?   Is this fact or myth.......?

Thanks,
BG

Is there a way, or a reference resource, to find out who built a particular CSX4000 car ?

In asking an owner, he responded he didn't know if his car was a HST build, and, or where it was built. He told me it really didn't matter. I'm not well versed on these but I am assuming I would rather own a Shelby Automotive built example than a HST built south of the border ......

I appreciate any assistance.

Do they, or are they supposed to have drain holes ?   I washed my car today, and of course its always a chore getting all the water out of several places..... this just being one of them !

Thanks.

Since I can't post a question in the For Sale section of the Classifieds...... is the 1966 GT-350 6S2389 continuation convertible listed for sale the same car sold last spring on BaT ?   I can't seem to find it....... THX

Is there any reason why these won't stay snugged down ?

I am using all cork gaskets, but it seems that every second time I take her out I have to snug them down again.

'67s don't used lock washers, or am I wrong and this is my problem ?

Thanks in advance,

BG

Guys,

Anything planned for W NC this year ?

As of now there is nothing coming up for us guys in TN...........

Thanks,

Bob

Looking for a stock 1967 K code standard steel oil pan suitable for a GT350 in good cond.

PM or direct  usgi45s at hotmail dot com

Thanks,
Bob

This will fire up some discussions.....!

The original owner of my GT350 replaced the Holley 715 Lemans in early 1975. According to the second owner, and the OO's best friend, someone at the local go fast speed shop in FL told him that the new Holley 650 double pumper was the hot set up for a K code 289.

Car is running just fine with the 650DP, and as of right now Drew is going through the 715 LM to make it fresh and right again.

With all things being equal since I drive my car more than most, which really is the best set up for spirited 3-4 times a month, twisty roads, weather permitting, driving enjoyment ?

Thanks in advance,
Bob

Getting ready to pull my Pertronix coil and put the yellow top back on that came with the car. Hoping to rectify my tach reading.  I don't think this yellow top is original by the markings, but the dumb question of the day remains...... BATT is +   and  DIST is -  correct ?

Thanks in advance.

Over the years I see '67s with and without chrome trim rings around the tailpipe cutouts on the rear valence. I was under the impression that this was a 1968 thing...... of course I have been wrong before.

Correct, not correct, only correct after a particular serial number or range ?

Thank you in advance........

Anybody receive theirs in the mail yet ?

I just got mine..... its destroyed.

Anybody running the high zinc Valvoline VR-1 motor oil in your hi-po 289 ?

If so, what variant and viscosity are you running, and can you give it some type of recommendation ?

Thanks in advance,

BG

Does anyone know if Mike Russell in Lebanon, TN is still this states regional contact ?

I got his contact info from SAAC but both contacts remain un-answered after a few months.

Thanks,
BG

What is everybody running for fuel in their 289s and 428s ?

I haven't had much luck yet finding the right octane booster..... but today ran 50/50 pump 93 and Sunoco 110 leaded race fuel so in essence the mixture was 101.5 octane with some lead and netted excellent results. It was noticeably happier.  I don't mind doing this once in a while.... it would get a little expensive if it were a full time habit, but I just wanted to know what you guys are using and what kind of results are you seeing.

Thanks.

BG