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Malfunctioning power brake booster can cause super sensitive braking with little modulation.   Also make sure you have correct disc/drum master cylinder.

There would be no real value for a restoration project but maybe for a nice driver quality car not concerned with NOS original style parts?

Personally, I like regular hydraulic shocks on my driver, and it seems harder and harder to find non-gas shocks, especially at a reasonable cost.

I may be too late, but I might suggest getting a roller type chain as long as you are in there?

 I also own a 67 C code coupe with AC, and the only differences I see between it and the Shelby other than the damper modification, is the lack of A/C compressor brace between compressor and intake manifold, and the routing of the heater hoses, as the Shelby does not have a thermostatic choke - the one hose doesn't run through a clip on choke housing.   The dampers used on C and A code engines did not have the wide outer ring and the wider A/C pully fits no problem.  There is no boss on the cobra intake to mount the compressor brace and apparently it isn't needed.

I have also seen two differing 3-sheave A/C pulleys on these cars;  one with larger and one with smaller diameter A/C pulleys. (the most forward sheave )    I believe the smaller diameter was used on the hipos to slow the compressor speed, but I have also seen them on non K code setups, maybe some sort of power option?   If anyone has more info on this I would be curious to learn.

The inner circumference on the balancer outer ring was machined to accept the wider 3-sheave pulley, but the imbalance remained the same. Looking at the back side of the balancer, you will see that the imbalance weighting of the hub part of the balancer is unchanged. Only the outer ring on outside of the elastomer was machined = no change in the balance.   There would be no reason to change any balancing or removing of hatchet to accommodate for AC.
I suspect hatchet was removed to allow for wider timing chain, probably accompanied by a rebalance.

I've posted this before but it is everything you need to know with all wires explained.  I suggest making up a "Y" connector with bullets to splice into the wiring without any damage (at point 7 on the diagram).  Pull apart existing bullet connector and insert there - ignition side of tach.

https://youtu.be/iaCGz-2j1Oo

forward to 19:00

Maybe but our cows are happier. At least that is what the stated paid $33 Million dollars telling us.

Kinda makes you wonder who's milking who.

Good stuff!

Derrière (Dairy Air) is a French word that means the part of the body a person sits on, commonly referred to as the buttocks. It is often used in a humorous or euphemistic context.

I see several under $100.
example:  https://www.ebay.com/itm/365272519305?_

I found what I needed.  Thanks to all and Happy New Year!

WTB  Autolite 4100  C6ZF-B complete carb. or the correct boosters for this carb.  (CH or CF primary,  H or A secondary)
Thanks, Kurt.

Would the worm drive style clamp have a Ford in oval marking typically?  My Feb 67 has such a clamp and I have wondered about its originality.

It looks like White Post Restorations still resleeves brake parts:
https://whitepost.com/brake-sleeving-rebuilding-services/
I imagine the sleeve will have the groove for the seal but I have never seen one they have done.

Best way I have found is to remove the pads and put in a a spacer block 1/2 inch? in place of the pads. Blow compressed air into the brake hose hole to push out the pistons, then unbolt the 2 halves to complete piston removal.
The O rings are actually square and the pistons ride on them, rather than the actual bore (no metal to metal contact).
I have heard that for really stubborn stuck pistons that pumping in grease from a gun will usually work, but then you have to clean all the grease out.
Try to make sure all 4 pistons are mostly popped out before separating the halves.

Harmon Classic Brakes stocks rebuild parts or rebuilt Midland boosters.  I've ordered parts from them and the quality is excellent.
https://www.parts123.com/parts123/yb.dll?parta~partsort~1~cadfffkz~~20