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Original K/H centers will typically have stamped assembly date code from back in the day, like month day year.  Also may have 70616 stamp.
My Specialty Magstars also have differently spaced rivets (about 1" farther apart) compared to originals.

The fender is phenomenal and looks gorgeous down.

Oh yeah baby, where do I sign?

Re posting diagram from earlier Pertronix thread.  Hook it up this way and it will work right.

Attached is a diagram for reference.   If your car has the stock bullet connectors on the tach, you can splice in there without cutting anything or disturbing existing wiring.  Disconnect the tach connector on the left in the diagram, then fashion a "Y" connector with bullets to tap into the line there.

I had a problem with Marti upper hose for 67 gt350 being too short.  I do not think this problem has been solved after several years.  I ended up buying a Gates hose to  get the right length/shape.  Of course may not apply to your 68 with the wider radiator, just saying Marti hoses not gospel, and he does not appear to be receptive to listening to the problem.  It's strange because at one time he was supplying a correct fitting hose.

I'm pretty sure clutch is disengaging.  Think I will explore adjustment of linkage further.  Thanks all for ideas.
Kurt

Yes, definitely most prevalent when starting out.  I thought maybe not coming completely out of reverse (to detent) since there is some play when making the adjustment - especially with the reverse rod.
I will try some of the suggestions next time, as you can imagine, usually I am in kind of panic mode when backing into street and this happens.   I can't tell if the shifter is locking it out or if the transmission isn't allowing movement into first.  I can usually free it up if I push clutch in and out and lightly rev. 
When adjusting the reverse rod, should I move the trans reverse lever all the way out of reverse, or somewhere before the limit? (hope I am explaining clear enough)

I have adjusted my Ford 4spd shifter as mentioned with a drill bit through the holes in neutral.  It usually will shift just fine, but every once in a while after reversing out of the garage, the shifter gets stuck in neutral and won't go into any forward gear.   
Anyone know what may be happening here?
Kurt.

If you have a stock unchanged 3259-1 it can idle with mix screws in due to massive idle feed. But it shouldn't run well.

Drew, are you saying all 3259-1 with the primary metering block #4756 came with the larger IFR?

I have an unmodified 3259-1 (Nov 66) that will idle well but idle screws only 3/4 turns out. 

Will changing to smaller IFR make for a cleaner (leaner) idle?

Early shot of the throttle setup with more stretch:

If you are using the spray wrinkle paint, it is a good idea to start with a coat of self etching primer - they are much less likely to chip or flake than without primer.

Alternately, you can wipe across the high areas on the ribs with a thin cloth (T shirt) soaked in laquer thinner while the paint is still wet to remove most of the paint before it dries.  Carefully with a finger laid flat across the ribs.    Once dry, the remainder of the paint can be easily removed with the thinner.
Getting the right texture  with the wrinkle paint is a function of temperature and thickness of the coat, so some experimenting is a good idea before proceeding with the real thing.  A warm oven can also be useful in creating the texture.

Great Info- thanks. It's interesting- I looked at the heh-bx mentioned on Dave Kee's chart and it says 65-66 but doesn't mention 1967 under that and more interestingly doesn't list any 67 hipo mustang trans tag ID- maybe they were all HEH-BX and he missed it in his chart.

I think for most of production the 4spd tag should be RUG-N  and maybe (not sure) RUG-N1 very late production.

Interesting,  I will have to try that.  It seems counterintuitive because the 4 corners will contact the plate first, right?

Thanks, I saw those and actually bought a set of pri and sec assemblies (they were Carl's).
I had found that my primary metering block was also warped the same way.  I was able to straighten it, but don't know how I could fix the bow in the bowl surfaces without destroying it.

I figured I should go ahead and get the new ones before they get any more scarce.  It's only money, right?

Thanks, I haven't decided that I want to spring $300 on a new bowl.  My existing has some warping across the gasket surfaces and I feel that I have to tighten it down too much to make it seal.  I'm going to try a new set of gaskets to see if that will cure it.  If not maybe will look for decent used at a better price. (then again, probably most used ones are warped too).
Kurt.