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I noticed that in sequence (video) #12 they still haven't noticed the problem, as the cap is not in place.  I hope that when the error(s) are noticed they will let it be known in future videos.  I'll bet most of us who work on their own cars have similar stories to tell.

So for those experienced; Would it be best to install the fuel tank prior to filler neck and gas cap?  It's been so long that I have done any work in that area I can't remember.

You might try sanding down the contacts a little on the new bulb.  I have also found that the old sockets can get stiff and sticky after all these years.  Push in on the socket contacts and see if it is hard to compress or is sticky.  Sometimes a little sil-glyde on the contacts will help.

If necessary, one could check the MC for residual check valve by removing the suspected line and probing the hole on the tube seat.  If you feel something rubbery/springy in there it probably is a check valve. No check valve and probe will just pass through (at least 1/4- 1/2").  I believe most mustang setups have the drum circuit on the front hole (please correct me if you know otherwise), so I would check that one first.

Dual master cylinders for disc/drum brakes may have a residual check valve in the drum circuit.  Probably not your problem, but if a disc/drum master was used in a dual disc setup, it could possibly mimic the problem you describe.
Have you determined if it is the front or the rear calipers locking up?

Yes, I was referring to the front only.  I have a couple sets of front and rear Striders, and the fronts look pretty close to mine (with noted exception to the shape of the tube).  I know they aren't going to pass for originals upon close scrutiny.

The picture certainly is not of a 65-70 Mustang shock. Surely it must be a mistake but OP had better confirm before ordering.

They show 2 different part numbers for the front shocks 65-70 and 71-73. The center picture is correct for 65-70.
These look a lot like Gabriel Striders but with different valving.
I assume you guys are thinking the 60/40 setting would be OK for street?
At any rate, finding hydraulic non-gas shocks nowadays at a reasonable price is difficult, especially with the somewhat correct look.

https://www.performanceonline.com/1965-73-Ford-Mustang-Front-3-Way-Adjustable-Shocks/

Can someone tell me if these are drag shocks, or if they might work on a street car?
I have no experience with valving ratios as listed - Thanks

Original K/H centers will typically have stamped assembly date code from back in the day, like month day year.  Also may have 70616 stamp.
My Specialty Magstars also have differently spaced rivets (about 1" farther apart) compared to originals.

The fender is phenomenal and looks gorgeous down.

Oh yeah baby, where do I sign?

Re posting diagram from earlier Pertronix thread.  Hook it up this way and it will work right.

Attached is a diagram for reference.   If your car has the stock bullet connectors on the tach, you can splice in there without cutting anything or disturbing existing wiring.  Disconnect the tach connector on the left in the diagram, then fashion a "Y" connector with bullets to tap into the line there.

I had a problem with Marti upper hose for 67 gt350 being too short.  I do not think this problem has been solved after several years.  I ended up buying a Gates hose to  get the right length/shape.  Of course may not apply to your 68 with the wider radiator, just saying Marti hoses not gospel, and he does not appear to be receptive to listening to the problem.  It's strange because at one time he was supplying a correct fitting hose.

I'm pretty sure clutch is disengaging.  Think I will explore adjustment of linkage further.  Thanks all for ideas.
Kurt

Yes, definitely most prevalent when starting out.  I thought maybe not coming completely out of reverse (to detent) since there is some play when making the adjustment - especially with the reverse rod.
I will try some of the suggestions next time, as you can imagine, usually I am in kind of panic mode when backing into street and this happens.   I can't tell if the shifter is locking it out or if the transmission isn't allowing movement into first.  I can usually free it up if I push clutch in and out and lightly rev. 
When adjusting the reverse rod, should I move the trans reverse lever all the way out of reverse, or somewhere before the limit? (hope I am explaining clear enough)

I have adjusted my Ford 4spd shifter as mentioned with a drill bit through the holes in neutral.  It usually will shift just fine, but every once in a while after reversing out of the garage, the shifter gets stuck in neutral and won't go into any forward gear.   
Anyone know what may be happening here?
Kurt.