Messages

It's getting closer.

Fantastic!  Can't wait to see some lime gold on this beauty!!

Thanks.

The search for an original paint match has been painful, but I found that Glasurit matches almost straight off their mix bank.
Of course, that paint line is painfully expensive!

It's getting closer.

The originals are flash chromed over stainless. A good stainless guy can get it off and polish the stainless

On the 2 or 3 I tried polishing there was a distinct blackish ring left under the chrome. It almost looked like a heat treat.

BTW, Flash = Batch chrome in my area of the states.

Tim -- I've collected dozens of these 'wheelcovers', Shelby and T-bird. All of them use T-bird centers.

I was going to have a couple of the main covers batch chrome plated instead of 3 step plated. Judging by a few I tried to polish, there is no copper of other finish under the extremely thin chrome plate.

A few of the T-Bird covers I collected have a course 80 grit texture instead of paint in the center. A few are not textured but appear to be the same color as the car, a blue as I recall from my one example -- still in a Ford box.

Considering how hard it is to tape and paint these paint the money spent toward NOS Shelby examples is well spent. Unless you really hate your painter.

(Snip)
I've made a template of the clip holes (because I had to, not because I wanted to) so I can re-punch the repro water shields and hoping that'll help me align the clips on the panels before install as well.

I noticed mine had this issue with clip location. Like you, I will have to make a template and correct the holes.
One would think this is the easiest part of making a repop... get the hole location right.

Instead of futzing with this I started work on the 65. I can't put it off forever, though.

65 Mustang T-10, Ford shifter box, Ford linkage (incl levers), rear rubber mount with bolts, original driveshaft, driver handle and early shift ball (chrome so so). Like most T-10s it pops out of 2nd on decel. Otherwise it worked well with no bearing noises.
All case numbers correct for a 65 Mustang.

See pics and details here:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/Krxpp538pdphq3fj7

$995 plus shipping. I will NOT separate.

PM here.

Now I'll have to pave my driveway so you can bring it over here!

It is looking great.

Is this the kind of rail car used? It's a  tri-level auto-veyor and holds 15 cars. Pic is from around '66.

On edit -- showing how a small derail can cause damage.

https://www.saacforum.com/index.php?topic=16102.0

Ok so its the same style of paint like they used for the engines? So which brand is ok to use for the rear ends?

Are you using a spray can or a custom mix in a spray gun?
What brands are are available there?

In spray cans I've noticed that SEM semi gloss is flatter than the Rustoleum semi gloss. And even within the Rustoleum brand there are differences between Fusion and other mixes.

I shot mine in SEM semi gloss from their canned product line. It matches the gloss of their can.
Either way I thought it too flat and reshot it.

Personally I like the "look" of Rustoleum in a can for many semi gloss applications.

Note too that the high temp semi gloss  version of some brands is shinier than their regular mix.

67 GT350 rear axle and color code (white).

We should start a club with all the 1370's cars in this thread!

The ammeter wiring goes through the choke cable hole for early cars. For later 350's there is an added hole for the wiring.

as Dave said, above.  Since GT500's had electric automatic choke all the GT500's used the Ford choke hole for the oil line and Amp gauge wire - no extra hole added.

(Edit thanks Bob!)

In JDs pic:

the early car has what appears to be a 65-66 choke cable grommet (sold at Virginia Mustang) while the later car has what my breakdown shows as a 379150-S rubber plug in the upper location.

Interestingly, an old pic of my car appears to show the early choke cable grommet at the bottom. The pic isn't very clear and the grommet appears to be broken in half.
I've included a zoomed in pic of the area showing the beveled plug at the top and a shadow of what looks like half of a 65-66 plug below.
[the car had a/c retrofitted, hence the plate gooped in when it was later removed.
Also bungies and wires are holding up the trans].

I'm not sure if I should use the beveled plug in both places (like JD's pic) or put back what I found. No telling what's stock in the chock cable hole due to the a/c stuff.

Automotive Specialties in Fla did mine.

Ok, thanks Tom.

[he didn't reply to my text, which is why I asked]